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Old 02-19-2018, 02:25 PM   #1
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changing spark plugs in Ford v-10 motor

i have a 99 Seaview with the v-10 Triton motor. i have about 43,000 miles
on my motor and have never changed the spark plugs. i have never had
any problems with starting the engine. i also have never ever checked the
current spark plugs. i was just wondering how often do you need to change
spark plugs? is it a very hard job? should i check my current plugs before
changing to new plugs? what is the best plugs to replace with for the
Ford v-10 motor? thanks for any and all advice.
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Old 02-19-2018, 03:06 PM   #2
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I change spark plugs around the 100k mile point. Yours are still good in my opinion. Modern engines and spark plugs don't need to have the plugs pulled and gapped like they were in the past.
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Old 02-19-2018, 03:12 PM   #3
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Wow, you are on a topic that has LOTS of opinions. The early V10 heads were thin around the spark plugs, only about 4 threads in an aluminum head. Gorilla mechanics easily overtightened and stripped the threads. Later V10s had a little thicker head and more threads, but steel plugs in aluminum still requires proper torque and technique.

Be sure to blow out each plug depression before trying to remove the plug to prevent crud from falling in the hole a the plug comes out. Carb cleaner can also help remove deposits after breaking the plug loose. I'd use the best Motorcraft plugs available for your model year. Use anti-seize when installing the new plugs, and be very careful not to over torque them. Check to be sure, but I believe it's around 14-21 ft/lbs in most cases.

Lots of YouTube and Ford Forum threads on the topic, research before you wrench. Most videos are of pick-ups and engines that have complete access, according to your RV, the engine might be half under the front and half inside the RV under the dash.
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Old 02-19-2018, 06:15 PM   #4
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Good advice. The worst situation I have heard about is a period when Ford used a two piece spark plug that may break apart during removal and a part remains in the combustion chamber. You know how urban legends get started, but I have read that some Ford dealers quote as much as $1500 to change plugs on V-10 and V-8 engines affected with this condition. Again, research with your engine / chassis serial number, and get correct information.

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Originally Posted by BFlinn181 View Post
.....Lots of YouTube and Ford Forum threads on the topic, research before you wrench.....
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Old 02-19-2018, 06:27 PM   #5
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100,000 miles. Plugs in the Ford V-10 are the one item to leave alone if you're not have problems.
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Old 02-19-2018, 06:39 PM   #6
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Leave them be.

The early V10s, like yours, spit the plugs out on occasion. Many of the spitting plugs were due to improper insulation, but some spit out original plugs.

Around 2004, they went with the extra threads and a 2 piece plug. Bad move, because they would come apart while removing them, leaving a stub in the head.

Ford has service bullitens for each screwed up spark plug design. You need to find the one for yours, in another 45,000 miles.
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Old 02-19-2018, 06:59 PM   #7
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I did mine last summer in my 99 Rexhall. Pulling the front tire off made it simple to get at. Like mentioned use anti seize or they make a special lube for steel on aluminum just can't remember the name right now. Check the bolts in the exhaust manifold while you are there. I had 2 missing in mine.
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Old 02-20-2018, 01:13 AM   #8
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No need to change plugs yet. When you do use the plated plugs not the black plugs. Ford does not recommend anti-seize on the plated plugs. The main cause of thread failure in the heads is improper torque, not tight enough. An under torqued plug will loosen up and start vibrating eventually the vibrating will distroy the threads causing the plug and coil to be spit out.
After removing the coil blow out the hole really good, protect you eyes from anything coming out of the hole.
Loosen 1/2 - 1 turn blow the hole out again. Spray a good lube in the hole, I use PB Blaster. Let it soak for awhile the longer the better, I soak over night.
Screw the plug out slow, if it starts to squeak stop. Screw the plug back in slightly spray lube again and soak a little more.
Only use plated plugs, if you buy Motorcraft that's what you will get. USE NO ANTI-SEIZE ON PLATED PLUGS.
You do not need to remove the tires to change the plugs in a V10, everything is accessible from top of engine.
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Old 02-20-2018, 09:45 PM   #9
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Additional information read the FAQ's on the link, especially #28, 47, 51, & 52

FAQs there a way to prevent this from happening in the first place

Spark Plug Change Service

I have no affiliation to the company or receive any compensation from them.
I do believe what they say about inadequate torque. Most of the thread failures happened to engine's that the plugs had not been touch since leaving the factory. I changed my plugs at 62,000 following their procedure including the 28 ft lbs of torque.
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Old 02-21-2018, 12:05 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chboone View Post
Additional information read the FAQ's on the link, especially #28, 47, 51, & 52

FAQs there a way to prevent this from happening in the first place

Spark Plug Change Service

I have no affiliation to the company or receive any compensation from them.
I do believe what they say about inadequate torque. Most of the thread failures happened to engine's that the plugs had not been touch since leaving the factory. I changed my plugs at 62,000 following their procedure including the 28 ft lbs of torque.
Good reading but they don't say you can't use anti seize just that they don't. I've been using Permatex 81464 Aluminum Antiseize along with another liquid form on aluminum heads in race cars for 20 years almost and never had an issue taking a plug out right after a pass. We have also fixed a couple V8 tritons that had spark plug issues with the Napa repair kits and the trucks are still going strong.
They have done their homework by the sounds of it and I'm sure their way works well but I think the key is cleaning the debris and proper torquing of the plugs.
And since I'm not close to them or willing to pay for them to come to Canada even if they would, I will keep on using anti seize on any aluminum head I put plugs in, at least until that fails for me.
As for pulling the wheels I just find it much more comfortable doing it and easier to check other things while I have them off. With air it only adds about 10 minutes to the job.
Not trying to start a debate, just saying what has worked for me.
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