converter/charger

[jlyon69]

Picked up my '99 Dolphin back in Feb and have been tinkering/learning ever since. Replaced the 12V distribution board, chassis and coach solenoids. Replaced the original solar panel and added a Trik-L-Start. Just finished replacing the old CRT TVs with two LED flat panels. Anyway.....

Since I've decided to leave shore power hooked up during storage, I'm thinking about replacing the original converter (all it says on it I can read is 50 amps). I assume the newer chargers are equipped with some sort of "smart" charging technology..... Can someone point me in the right direction?

[Shadowcatche]

Progressive Dynamics is US made and high quality. I had one that had a problem, called them and had a replacement the next morning (I am fairly close). In a conversation with a Concord battery engineer he favored theirs for my AGM battery. Country of origin for WAFCO is China.

[John Wayne]

I went with a intell-power 60 amp with charge wizard got it from best converter. Very happy with it.

[Paul R. Haller]

Actually Progressive Dynamics and Intella Power are the same company. What you want to look for is a converter that provides 3 or 4 different charge voltages depending on battery charge state. Look here:
Inteli-power 45 amp Converter charge wizard RV PD9245C | eBay
I'm actually quite fond of PD converters and have had great service from them. IOTA also make a good converter. Just get one with a muli stage charger if its left plugged in all the time Your batteries will thank you for it with a much longer life.
-Paul R. Haller-

[Wanabee FTer]

Removed my Magnatek 45A converter (single stage) and replaced with the PD 9260 with a remote pendant.
I highly recommend the remote pendant (optional) because it makes it easy to see what the converter is doing. Also it allows you to select manually which charge mode you would like. Maintenance storage mode 13.2V, normal charge mode 13.6v, or boost mode 14.4v. It also automatically equalizes the batteries appx every 24 hours.

[jackrobinryan]

I am very happy with my IOTA with the remote pendant. No more cooked batteries.

[jlyon69]

Great info guys, much appreciated!

[wa8yxm]

I see Progressive Dynamics with Charge Wizard seems to get a lot of recommendations.. Add on more. (But then I'm biased,, My mother once did a consult for them on a computer issue).

I am told the IOTA with IQ4.. basically the same thing.

When it comes to converters there is a list which are classed as "Best" This includes all the 3-stage jobs.. The PDI with Wizard (I have not researched the IOTA properly) is not only best, it's "outstanding" meaning it has at least one feature that makes it better than best.. Again that list has multiple entries too (Different brands, different additional feature).

Someone mentioned a Magnatek.. Well if there is a best list, there is a WORST list....

The Charge wizard is specifically set for Flooded Wet Cells like the popular Golf Car battery pairs by the way.. Good with other types too but best for those.

[jlyon69]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wanabee FTer I highly recommend the remote pendant (optional) because it makes it easy to see what the converter is doing.

I took a look at the IOTA's but, decided on a PD9245C. Research indicated they were pretty much equal., it just came down to a $40 price difference.

Question on the (not ordered yet) remote pendant: How much cable comes with it? I'm figuring it would be useless I can place it somewhere handy in the coach.

[Wanabee FTer]

It comes with approximately 36" of cable, but I believe it can be extended with standard RJ11 phone cord cable.

[jlyon69]

My PD9245C arrived yesterday and they sent me a free remote pendant, nice surprise. I was amazed at how small and lightweight this unit was. The old, heavy, loud humming behemoth turned out to be a Magnatek. No doubt the best $118 I've spend on upgrades so far.

After looking the situation over, I decided to use the Magnatek's output wires.
1. It was 25 degrees outside.
2. It would save me a lot of time.
3. I hadn't thought about needing new wires.
4. I figured 50amp Magnatek, 45amp PD, I'm good to go.

When I cut the wires off the Magnatek, I discovered they were 6 gauge stranded steel. The only thing PD mentions about hooking this up in that regard is: "The output terminals are rated for 2 to 14 gauge copper wire". So, am I good to go or should I replace with copper?

[Wanabee FTer]

I would be concerned about voltage drop with steel or aluminum wire, especially if you have a wire run over a few feet. consider the chart below


Resistance and Resistivity for Selected Common Metals

Material for this example is 10-ga wire

Resistance Ohms/ft..... Resistivity 10-8 ohm-m @ 25º C

Silver......... 0.000944.... 1.617
Copper....... 0.000999..... 1.712
Gold........... 0.00114...... 2.255
Aluminum..... 0.00164..... 2.709
Iridium........ 0.00306..... 4.7
Brass.......... 0.00406..... 6.13
Nickel.......... 0.00452.... 7.12
Iron............ 0.00579..... 9.87
Platinum....... 0.00579.... 10.7
Steel........... 0.00684.... 11.8
Lead............ 0.0127..... 21.10

Note that steel wire is one of the highest rated for resistance.
Of course copper wire would be optimal and aluminum wire might be acceptable depending on the length of the run.
The steel wire has approximately 4 times the resistivity of copper wire.
This could cause overheating of the circuit and less then the desired amount of voltage/amps delivered to the battery bank.

[jlyon69]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wanabee FTer I would be concerned about voltage drop with steel or aluminum wire, especially if you have a wire run over a few feet..

That was my concern at first also when I saw the steel wire. I later went back out and ran some voltages tests and all was fine. I then noticed the run was only 18 inches. I'm sure now I'm ok (after all it worked fine for 12 years). However, when I get to Fla I'm going to swap it out.

[wa8yxm]

The higher resistance of the steel wires means the batteries will take longer to recharge, This may or may not be an issue, Depending on how you camp, and, also, depending on how much battery you have..

Xantrex: Recommends for most battery types charging at no more than 30 percent of their 20 hour amp-hour rating, Thus a Group. 29, (Roughly 100 amp hours) should be charged no faster than 30 amps.

The higher resistance of the steel wire.. Might just do the job.

On the other hand a pair of GC-2 Golf car batteries.. Well, 66 amp.

The two Max-29's I have in parallel on the Inverter.. Well after I installed the 2nd one yesterday (I did the first last month) I hit the generator and fed 'em 40 amps for a while. (I original ran the inverter off a pair of Group 31 AGM's but though they were the newest batteries in the coach.. they were also the deadest.. So I replaced them with Maxx-29's since that's the best wally world could do and they are the same size physically.. BOTH sales tecs noted the new battery was not has heavy as the old one, NO, ____II! They are not as heavy, Not as much capacity either.