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Old 10-22-2013, 12:25 PM   #1
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Disconnect solenoid

Went out to the Motor Home and found that my disconnect solenoid that turns on and off the 12V coach power to the lights, ref, alarms, by the entrance door etc would not energize. So I began the trouble shooting and found that that black box behind the circuit board in the battery compartment is the problem. So I put a jumper from the 12V terminal on the front of the circuit board which goes to one side of the solenoid to the other terminal 3" to the right of it, which goes to the other terminal of the solenoid, thereby bypassing it. Everything ok now, have power but no remote cutoff.
Called RV Custom Products in Santa Fe, Ca and got the part number which is: RVC-1002. I will order it in a week. So if any others ran into this problem, you have a start point and a part number should you need it.
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Old 10-23-2013, 10:35 PM   #2
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Any contiuous duty solenoid will work. I think the Napa # is ST 80. One of the requirements is that it be contiuous duty and NOT a starter solenoid. Make sure you disconnect all batteries before changing, don't want any sparks.

Make sure, with the jumper off, that you have power, 12V, to one of the small terminals on the solenoid and a good ground on the other small terminal. Simply going from one large teminal to the other doesn't mean the solenoid is bad. It may mean you don't have power to operate the solenoid. If you don't have power to one of the small terminals you may have a bad disconnect swith.
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Old 10-23-2013, 11:21 PM   #3
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The main 12 V disconnect relay is not the same as a continuous duty solenoid. The disconnect relay does not have power supplied to the coil terminals to hold it closed. The disconnect relay is a latching relay that is operated by a momentary switch.

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Old 10-24-2013, 04:27 AM   #4
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Latching solenoid

Thanks folks for the suggestions and info.
While tracing the problem down I found that I had power at the switch by the front door, thinking maybe the switch was the problem, but had power and it was ok.
Back to the battery compartment, fuse to solenoid ok, 12v power to the solenoid on the battery side, none on the load side and couldn't trip it to let power go to the load side. So, like I said, jumpered it until I fix it. I'll work on it in my spare time. The replacement for the factory original is $59.52. I will surf the net and see what else I can fine. I have a solenoid from a 93 Bounder I use to have, It is a latching solenoid, I think.
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Old 10-24-2013, 10:42 AM   #5
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Those solenoids usually fry due to a sticking switch. The windings are very light duty and only meant to withstand a momentary load. If the switch sticks for a minute or two, POOF! and the smoke gets out.

After mine fried and I bought and installed a new one, I took the old one apart to see what the damage was. I've rewound the coils on transformers and solenoids in the past, so I thought I'd see if I could play with this one.

Well, the windings had obviously overheated. When I unwound the coil, I also found the cardboard tube around which they were wound had carbonized. That bound up the "slug" that moves from one end to the other. There was no fixing that (I wouldn't even know where to get a replacement) so I tossed the whole burnt mess in the trash.
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