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Old 07-15-2013, 03:05 PM   #1
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Dometic or Norcold

My 2005 Sea Breeze came with an awful Norcold 1200 fridge. It has never cooled very well, even after replacing the cooling unit a few years ago [a new norcold unit]. Now, the gas flame will not stay lit for more than a few seconds, the safety overheat switch has broken [I superglued it back together], and the fridge temps are worse than ever. I am going to replace the unit with either a Dometic Elite 2+2 or another Norcold 1200 series. I've heard that the newer Norcolds may be better than the older ones, and may even be better than the Dometic units. I can get a Noecold through the entry door, but will have to remove a window for the Dometic. The Dometic is also 2 inches deeper than the Norcold. This may require that I put a 1 or 2 inch trim around the fridge so the cooling unit doesn't hit the outside wall of the coach. Doing the trim isn't major to me, but the window removal, along with having to hoist the fridge up seven feet to get it through the window is. If the general consensus is to go with the Dometic, I will probably do that.


PS I live in Arizona...110 degrees or more.

What do you all think?

Bill
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Old 07-15-2013, 03:17 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WSRG View Post
My 2005 Sea Breeze came with an awful Norcold 1200 fridge. It has never cooled very well, even after replacing the cooling unit a few years ago [a new norcold unit]. Now, the gas flame will not stay lit for more than a few seconds, the safety overheat switch has broken [I superglued it back together], and the fridge temps are worse than ever. I am going to replace the unit with either a Dometic Elite 2+2 or another Norcold 1200 series. I've heard that the newer Norcolds may be better than the older ones, and may even be better than the Dometic units. I can get a Noecold through the entry door, but will have to remove a window for the Dometic. The Dometic is also 2 inches deeper than the Norcold. This may require that I put a 1 or 2 inch trim around the fridge so the cooling unit doesn't hit the outside wall of the coach. Doing the trim isn't major to me, but the window removal, along with having to hoist the fridge up seven feet to get it through the window is. If the general consensus is to go with the Dometic, I will probably do that.


PS I live in Arizona...110 degrees or more.

What do you all think?

Bill
My vote is to go to a residential fridge, if at all possible.
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Old 07-15-2013, 03:57 PM   #3
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Samsung is the only one that seems to come close to fitting in the original cutout. The problem is, it's too tall, and my fridge goes clear to the ceiling and sits right on top of the furnace.

Bill
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Old 07-16-2013, 09:56 AM   #4
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Before you remove the window you might check if the Dometic will fit if you remove the door frame. I've had both the door and a window out on my 2001 Dolphin. Neither are hard to remove/replace (other than making sure you don't drop it, have a couple of helpers). Removing the door frame will give you an extra inch or 2.
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Old 07-16-2013, 02:38 PM   #5
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Thanks Mike9999
The Dometic might fit through the doorway if I remove the frame.
It really would be nice to get some opinions about the two brands.

Bill
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Old 07-16-2013, 09:12 PM   #6
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New Amish Cooling Unit with a 5 year warranty from the RV .... solution is to replace it with a residential (compressor driven) fridge. .... complete cooling unit coils tubing are built with a 50% thicker tubing wall .
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Old 07-17-2013, 06:35 AM   #7
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At 110 degrees outside no absorbtion refrigerator is going to work real well.
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Old 07-18-2013, 08:28 AM   #8
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I assume that the door on the refer's themselves would be removed beforehand, prior
to removing either a window or door frame....correct?
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Old 07-18-2013, 08:38 AM   #9
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We had a Dometic in our Class c b4 we got the Tradewinds NEVER an issue with it. The Norcold has been what I call spookey as it quits cooling then fixes itself and had to have it reset 1 time, every time we use it I am waiting for it to crap out. If all the Dometics are like the one we had I would get another one in a heartbeat.
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Old 07-18-2013, 08:44 AM   #10
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Regular maintenance

A refer made in 2005 is now 8 years old. If the gas path and burner tube has never been cleaned it's WAY overdue. Generally when it won't stay lit it's because of a weak flame caused by junk in the mixing tube and/or a clogged orifice. Easy easy easy to diagnose & fix.

Making it run cooler is easy too. Make sure it was installed properly. There shouldn't be much air space between the coils and the outer wall and if it's in a slide there should be a baffle on top to route the hot air out the side vent. Some folks have added 2 to 4 computer muffin fans on top to draw air through the system. That will also work with a top vented installation.

I experimented with adjustable thermistors and while it didn't work out for me it might for you. Product Listings for Snip The Tip

What worked best for me was to put a single layer of foam insulation (from a coffee cup) between the fin and the thermistor. Zero cost and quite effective. My refer runs at 34 to 38F and my freezer at -15 to -20F. Since I thunk it up I chose to call it the Muddypaws Mod. I've done it on several 1200's and achieved similar results.

Good Luck!
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Old 07-18-2013, 12:43 PM   #11
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Thanks Mike9999
The Dometic might fit through the doorway if I remove the frame.
It really would be nice to get some opinions about the two brands.

Bill
Sadly, they are both junk. Both have many, many ,many recalls. You already had trouble with your Norcold, and you want to buy another one? Fool my once.............

Go residential.
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Old 07-18-2013, 11:20 PM   #12
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foam insulation ?

Muddypaws, I'm having trouble with my 2007 Norcold 1210. Did you just insert the form cup insulation under one side of the clip on the thermistor? What model fridge do you have? How many fins from the right is it that your
thermistor is installed?

Mike
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Old 07-19-2013, 10:28 AM   #13
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Mod

I have a 1201 LRIM. The thermistor is mounted on the second fin from the far right, about 1/4 of the way down from the top.

Once you get the thermistor clip off you may have to bend it out just a bit in order to get the foam between the fin and the metal face of the thermistor. A butter knife works quite well.

Just a few weeks ago we were in a spot that was over 100F most of the day and my refer side was in full sun from 10AM to 4PM. Interior temp never went over 38F unless someone opened the door for several minutes.

No fans.

Previously the refer would never get below 40F and often up to 45 or even higher. The freezer was pretty useless. Ice cream was near liquid, especially with the ice maker on.

I really liked the snip-the-tip idea. I worked with the owner/engineer to modify what was a Dometic only product to work on NorCold. But my particular refer is very picky about how long it waits for feedback when it goes into defrost mode. If it doesn't sense a temp rise within a given number of minutes it just shuts off! No errors, no codes, no alarms. The snip-the-tip thermistor cannot be mounted on the fin. I've tried to talk him into making one that could but it wouldn't be worth it for him. He's moved on to other projects. (he's a brilliant guy and has lots of projects......)

BTW, Defrost cycle happens every 47 hours. Or should I say it does on mine. Can I assume that all 1200 series would be the same?
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