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12-12-2010, 05:16 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
National RV Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Manhattan Beach, CA
Posts: 302
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Thought I would share a project I did for the fresh water system in our Dolphin. The main problem I was trying to solve was low water pressure and flow in the shower. We just didn’t feel really clean after taking a shower with the low flow. I wanted to find a good balance between flow, pressure and water usage. In adjusting the flow I didn’t want to affect our hot water (10 gal tank) and end up with great flow but not enough hot water to take a long shower if we wanted to. We mainly camp with hookups so quantity wasn’t a concern but I didn’t want to go through our water too quickly if we were dry camping. I also wanted something that was easy to deal with each time we went to a different camp ground.
My first education was here at www.irv2.com and also at rv.net. I first tried the Oxygenetics handheld shower head. That made it feel like you were getting more water but you really don’t. IMHO. Some more reading on the forums and I found great info at www.rvwaterfilterstore.com which is a very helpful site. I also found www.watersticks.com and liked their product and the positive comments they received on the forums. So after letting all the info rattle around in my head for a few days here is what I came up with.
My water bay wasn’t large enough to hold a filter and softener without limiting the other items I normally carry in the bay. There is a large space above my propane tank which is large enough to mount the filter and the softener. I cut a piece of ½ exterior plywood and laid the filter and softener on top and cut some 1x1 stock to cradle the filter & softener. I also mounted some webbing with quick disconnects to secure the filter & softener to the plywood from REI. The softener has brass quick disconnects on both ends so the softener can easily be removed when not in use or when it needs to be regenerated. I removed the guts from both of the quick disconnects so flow wouldn’t be effected. The entire system was mounted above the propane tank on the two steel cross members that support the propane tank.
I bought the Watts regulator 263A from www.rvwaterfilterstore. It has ¾” fittings and is adjustable with an easy to read gauge. I didn’t want it to grow legs and walk away like other people had experienced so I mounted it inside the water bay. I removed the screws that hold the diaphragm together and replaced them with ¼ X 4” stainless steel screws and additional flat washers and nuts, also stainless steel. I removed the onboard pressure regulator and took the guts out of it and drilled the opening to ½”. I also removed the screen at the inlet. Everything after the onboard regulator is 3/8” plastic tubing. Nothing can be done about the sizing of the tubing.
So now I needed to get the water from my water bay up to the filter and softener and then back to the bay and into the MH. I ran ¾” PVC from the bay up to the filter and softener. The PVC is clamped to the steel sheeting that forms the basement storage bays. The PVC is open to the potential of rock damage but PVC is pretty tough and if it is damaged it can easily and quickly be replaced and is available everywhere. This side of the system is exposed to camp ground water pressure but it is also rated at 150#. Once the filtered and softened water comes back to my bay it enters the regulator which is set at 60 PSI. Past the regulator the ¾ nylon braided hose connects to an on/off ‘Y’ hose connector. One leg goes to the tank flush via a small hose and the other leg goes to my gutted onboard water regulator. Finally I replaced the shower head with a Waterpik handheld shower head model # SM-82W(S). I removed the filter screen and the flow regulator that is part of the inlet to the shower head so it wouldn’t restrict the flow.
Now we can take a shower and feel clean. We have great flow and pressure and can take a long shower without running out of hot water. On the occasions where we are the only shower with all the kids and grandkids we run the electric and propane heat and can have continuous hot water.
Hook up is easy also. Just run a hose from the campground to the quick connect in the water bay, turn on the water and turn the ‘Y’ on to the MH.
__________________
Steve & Jeri
2004 Dolphin 5342
79 VW Triple Black
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12-12-2010, 09:26 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
National RV Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Manhattan Beach, CA
Posts: 302
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This should be pictures if I have done it right
__________________
Steve & Jeri
2004 Dolphin 5342
79 VW Triple Black
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12-12-2010, 09:37 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
National RV Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 146
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Good Idea....Super sanitary installation.
Bill
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BILL & CINDA SCHWARTZ
2005 SEABREEZE LX 8360
BEAUTIFUL PHOENIX, AZ
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12-13-2010, 05:09 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: st.charles mo.
Posts: 564
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I would put a check valve or anti backflush valve between the fresh water and tank flush to prevent contaminated water from getting into the fresh water system.
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12-13-2010, 08:43 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
National RV Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Manhattan Beach, CA
Posts: 302
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__________________
Steve & Jeri
2004 Dolphin 5342
79 VW Triple Black
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12-13-2010, 08:46 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
National RV Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Manhattan Beach, CA
Posts: 302
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SpeddRacer, You bet! Don't want black water coming back into the fresh system. National was smart enough to add a very hefty backflow preventer in the flushout tubing.
Sorry about posting twice. I haven't figured out posting pictures and words on the same post.
__________________
Steve & Jeri
2004 Dolphin 5342
79 VW Triple Black
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