getting rid of oxydation

[jerseyjim]

My 2001, the bottom blue/gray is oxydizing pretty badly despite my yearly waxing.

I've heard that PAINTING is the only "real, permanant" fix...but I'm not ready to spend that kind of bucks. Yet.

Any reccomendations as to a good cleaner or compound...something to get under the wax, hopefully clean up the surface so I can wax it and bring it up to snuff...even temporarly?

I've tried to "research" this topic on the forum but nothing comes up.

[jerseyjim]

My 2001, the bottom blue/gray is oxydizing pretty badly despite my yearly waxing.

I've heard that PAINTING is the only "real, permanant" fix...but I'm not ready to spend that kind of bucks. Yet.

Any reccomendations as to a good cleaner or compound...something to get under the wax, hopefully clean up the surface so I can wax it and bring it up to snuff...even temporarly?

I've tried to "research" this topic on the forum but nothing comes up.

[John Wayne]

Are you talking about the blu plastic bin doors I use Protect all and it works well for me. I just did my white side walls with Protect All oxidation remover and wax and was more then happy, removed the oxidation and did the whole thing in one day easy on and off.

[Olive]

3M makes a product called Marine Restorer and Wax for fiberglass that works very well. They used to label it for RV's also but dropped that label. The company said this is the very same stuff. It is available for light and heavy oxidation.

It used to be available at Wal Mart but if you can't find it there you can go to 3M.com and order it.

[speed racer]

I got it at west marine and it works great.

[jerseyjim]

JOHNWAYNE:

Just got the stuff you mentioned at the local RV dealer. They had a small size and a large size...bought the large one....18 bucks including tax.

Hope it works for me as it did for you.

[Webster]

I use 303 Aerospace Ptotectant. It's great for rubber, vinyl, fiberglass, tires, plastic, and leather. It's 100% prevention of UV caused slow-fade with regular use. Developed for aerospace and aviation applications. It is the world's most protective UV screening product. It's available at Camping World. Spray it on and then wipe dry. Gives you a like new surface. Removes stains and makes the item last longer. Highly recommend it on rubber. With the tires, you won't need the skits any longer.

It's a bit expensive, but it's well worth it. I also use it on my car and other items at home that I use outdoors a lot. It's much better on the dash than ArmorAll which ruins plastic.

[Edw]

I used Maguires 3 step process. Heavy oxidation remover, Gel Polish and Then Gel Wax. Kit is for RV's & Marine Gel coats. Lots of work but my 1999 was very dull when I purchased and wanted it to look as good as possible. Machine applied hand removed worked great.

[Bill Davis]

Shortcut to IRV2 General Discussion added for better visability per Admin.

[GraciesMom]

If by oxydation you mean the yellowing of the fiberglass? I have that problem and have tried everything I've seen suggested on here and other areas to remove it. I finally called in a professional and he said he would "wet sand" it. Well, for $600, I gave wet sanding it a shot myself. I did it by hand on a small section and the results were awesome! I'm buying a small sander and tackling the whole thing. I had already taken all the decals off. I tried Soft Scrub with bleach, 1/2 water and 1/2 bleach, etc., etc. Bought a couple of different products that were supposed to clean oxydization (did I spell that right?) Finally, this is the answer. On the small area I've done, you can hardly see the "shadowing" from where I removed the old decals. Before wet sanding, there was a definite white "shadow" and the rest of the fiberglass was YELLOW. You just have to be really careful and use a light hand so you don't sand too deep. I buffed up the area I'd sanded with some wax and it shines like a new penny!!

[tom wilson]

gel-gloss from camping world and a 11 inch orbital buffer will get rid of oxidation.

[NeilV]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by tommywilson:
gel-gloss from camping world and a 11 inch orbital buffer will get rid of oxidation. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>


PolyPrep from PolyGlow melts most of it off and a ScotchBright pad with a little PolyPrep takes care of the rest. Top it off with PolyGlow and it will not yellow the fiberglass like the wax does.

[GA_Campers]

I just had to de-oxidize my 1993 Allegro Bay. It was pretty bad, had been sitting out for about 4 years with no wax the entire time. I used a 9" Angle Grinder with a polishing pad (variable speed set to 3) and 3M heavy cut oxidation remover. It cut all the oxidation down and looked as good as new. I topped it off with Insulators Wax and it now looks better than a lot of RV a lot newer. I was looking at it in the C/G today and at some of the newer ones that haven't been waxed regularly, and mine actually looks newer. Just my 2 cents worth.

[NeilV]

Just remember that every time you take a grinder or sander to your coach you are that much closer to exposing the fiberglass mesh. You can do a lot of damage very quickly with a power tool. I assisted a automobile wholesaler who would have one of the kids every now and then borrow one of the compound grinders only to come back asking how to smooth out what they did to their personal vehicles. It usually ment a trip to the body shop for spot putty and a full paint job.