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Old 06-03-2019, 07:18 PM   #1
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Help with Sea Breeze Microwave replacement

The GE profile microwave in my Sea Breeze 8311 has gone on strike. Trying to remove this thing and I'm at wits end. I've searched the forum and everyone else whose replaced their microwave had a cabinet above it for access. Mine is in the slide and the roof of the slide is above the microwave. There is a 3" panel above the unit for access but I don't see how I can remove those 4" long Philips screw. I'm thinking I need to be a double jointed Italian Fiat mechanic to get this thing out. Any tips????

Thanks
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Old 06-04-2019, 09:38 PM   #2
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I feel your pain, in my Tradewinds the bolts go into a false bottom under the top cabinet - it would have required disassembling the cabinets to get to the screws.

When I started taking mine apart I found schematics tucked behind the control panel, and a helpful service rep at my local appliance repair shop was quite helpful troubleshooting.

In my case, lights and fans worked (so it had Power) but neither microwave or convection would start. A quick look at the diagram and he suggested maybe a door switch (there are 2) was bad, so I jumpered around them to test -- and repaired my own oven with a $5 switch.
If you choose a similar route yourself, be careful and trip the breaker. Those door switches are emergency cut-out switches to shut off power when you pull the door without stopping the oven first -- they have 120v running through them.
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Old 06-04-2019, 10:06 PM   #3
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I install built-in appliances for a living and I was called out to install one in a motor home a few months ago and it had an angle bracket on top of it, with those four inch long bolts holding the bracket to the microwave. The angle bracket then had sheet metal screws fastened into another bracket on the ceiling. If you could take some pictures of what you have there I might be able to help you some more.
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Old 06-04-2019, 10:08 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgambalie View Post
I feel your pain, in my Tradewinds the bolts go into a false bottom under the top cabinet - it would have required disassembling the cabinets to get to the screws.

When I started taking mine apart I found schematics tucked behind the control panel, and a helpful service rep at my local appliance repair shop was quite helpful troubleshooting.

In my case, lights and fans worked (so it had Power) but neither microwave or convection would start. A quick look at the diagram and he suggested maybe a door switch (there are 2) was bad, so I jumpered around them to test -- and repaired my own oven with a $5 switch.
If you choose a similar route yourself, be careful and trip the breaker. Those door switches are emergency cut-out switches to shut off power when you pull the door without stopping the oven first -- they have 120v running through them.
A common reason for those door switches to go out is opening the microwave before shutting it off. It's always best to hit cancel first and then open the microwave, otherwise those switches will burn out eventually.
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Old 06-05-2019, 12:04 PM   #5
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Thanks for your help. Hopefully these pictures will help. I see where you are going though but the angle bracket is facing down on the vertical side so I am unable to access that. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks again

Zoli
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Old 06-05-2019, 06:51 PM   #6
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They didn't make that easy! Is that a pretty old microwave? Looks to me like it might be the version that hangs on "arms" that come from the rear bracket. Kinda can see one on the left side. if it is, those upper screws can be removed and it will drop a bit, then get 2 people and pull it forward off the arms. They don't make them like that now, so the new one will have a different mounting system.

If you could take a pic inside to upper left, inside the micro (above it's door) I could verify, or you may even see the arms, one on each side.

May be just enough room for a stubby phillips or a small 90 degree ratcheting screwdriver to remove those screws. Once the screws are loosened a bit, usually you can finish by hand. I have had some that were cross-threaded, that I had to cut using a sawzall between the microwave and cabinet...

However if it's not on the "arm" bracket you will see 2-4 tabs on the bottom that go into slots in the microwave. Those tabs are on the wall bracket. When the last upper screw is removed be prepared because the unit will pivot forward, then you lift up a bit to release it from the tabs, which are only about 1/4" into the microwave.
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Old 06-05-2019, 06:59 PM   #7
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BTW, might be worth seeing if you can remove those wood blocks with the velcro that hold the valance for now, then put them back in after the new microwave is mounted. You will need to drill new holes for the new one.
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Old 06-05-2019, 07:10 PM   #8
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1/4 inch ratchet. 1/4 inch socket. philips screw tip.
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Old 06-11-2019, 11:43 AM   #9
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Thanks Tap4154. That was the ticket. I bought the angle ratchet screw driver and that was a breeze.

Now comes the chore of finding a direct replacement with the exact mounting location.

Thanks again.
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Old 06-12-2019, 09:06 AM   #10
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Thanks Tap4154. That was the ticket. I bought the angle ratchet screw driver and that was a breeze.

Now comes the chore of finding a direct replacement with the exact mounting location.

Thanks again.

Glad it helped! Can you measure where the center of the bolt holes are from the side, and from the back, on the microwave? Also show me a pic of the bracket, and measure it from top to bottom (probably 16.5") Does it have 4 tabs? If so I might be able to suggest a direct replacement. Also the model number of the old one.
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Old 06-12-2019, 11:42 AM   #11
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By the way I'll just toss this out there, if those outside bolt holes measure about an inch and a half from the side of the microwave and 8 and 3/4 from the back, and the mounting plate has four tabs on it a jvm6175 should fit right on the existing plate, and the bolt holes should line right up. It's not a profile microwave, but they all have basically the same guts, just the buttons are different.
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Old 06-12-2019, 07:20 PM   #12
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The original model is the JVM1630BB. The bolt holes on the top are 8.5" from the back edge and 1.375" off of the edges. Yes there are 4 tabs on the back bottom of the mounting plate.


In doing my homework I found the JVM3160 which is also a 1.6 cuft oven. I went to Home Depot today to see that unit and the bolt holes are 9.5+" from the back edge and 1,5" from the sides so it's not exactly the same as my original.


The Do you think the JVM6175 has the same bolt pattern as my old one or more like the new one?


Thanks for your help.
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Old 06-12-2019, 08:06 PM   #13
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The original model is the JVM1630BB. The bolt holes on the top are 8.5" from the back edge and 1.375" off of the edges. Yes there are 4 tabs on the back bottom of the mounting plate.


In doing my homework I found the JVM3160 which is also a 1.6 cuft oven. I went to Home Depot today to see that unit and the bolt holes are 9.5+" from the back edge and 1,5" from the sides so it's not exactly the same as my original.


The Do you think the JVM6175 has the same bolt pattern as my old one or more like the new one?


Thanks for your help.

The measurement I gave was to the center of the bolt holes, sounds iike you measured to the edge, but yes, the 6175 should be the same. The 3160 not only has the bolts in a different position, but in their "wisdom" GE changed the position of the tabs on the mounting bracket a bit, so a new mounting plate has to be installed.

Here's the top template of the 6175, which should work for you on your existing bracket.


https://products.geappliances.com/Ma...e=31-41078.pdf


Let me add, I can't guarantee this, as I've gone out to install a model only to find they had updated them to different specs BUT I installed two JVM6175s yesterday and they matched your bolt placement, and four tabs.
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