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Old 06-04-2007, 01:52 PM   #1
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I did not realize that we National RV owners now have our own forum. That is great! I have a problem that I have had since I bought new. My house batteries ((4) 6 volt trojans T- 05's) don't charge while driving down the road. I was told to check the interconnect solenoid on the board to make sure it works, but I don't know what it looks like on the circuit board. Any ideas? We love our Dolphin LX!
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Old 06-04-2007, 01:52 PM   #2
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I did not realize that we National RV owners now have our own forum. That is great! I have a problem that I have had since I bought new. My house batteries ((4) 6 volt trojans T- 05's) don't charge while driving down the road. I was told to check the interconnect solenoid on the board to make sure it works, but I don't know what it looks like on the circuit board. Any ideas? We love our Dolphin LX!
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2003 Dolphin LX 6342 8.1L W-22 chassis. Upgrades: Ultrapower,regapped plugs, Taylor wires, CAI, Koni shocks, Koni steering stabilizer, F&R trac bars, F&R IPD sway bars. US Gear for toad.
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Old 06-04-2007, 04:48 PM   #3
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Anyone have a picture for VoW, it could save a thousand words

By the looks of your coach upgrades, it seems to me you were at last years National Rally ?

Well done rig VoW
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Old 06-04-2007, 07:19 PM   #4
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VOW
This panel is located in compartment forward of the entry door.


The 1 amp fuse in the middle of this photo seems to be for the relay just to its left. I believe this small relay controls power going to the solenoid that is mounted behind this circuit board and shown in photo below.





This is the solenoid that connects chassia and coach batteries together.
Thats a little less then a 1000 words.

Marty
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Old 06-05-2007, 04:45 AM   #5
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you guys are the best!!!! I was told that if it is the relay that is bad, then the board must be replaced. But since it has never worked from day 1 it might just be that the 1 amp fuse is bad or missing or maybe the solenoid itself is not working. Thanks for the help!
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Old 06-05-2007, 04:54 AM   #6
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Jestme, When I first bought the coach in 2003 I had all the suspension upgrades done, these updates were done at a workhorse shop in Elgin, IL (Champion Frame). I then met up with Mike from Brazel's at a trek rally in Kansas City where he UP'd the ECM and sent me a CAI kit with wires and I installed with new plugs. My coach is great to drive and now Champion Frame works with Brazel's and they just recently updated the UP program. Jestme, I know you used to have a Trek, were you there at the rally?
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Old 06-05-2007, 05:12 PM   #7
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Not at the Trek rally, but we were at the national Safari rally . I got some great Amsoil upgrades you might like, I never got the installed on the Trek before I sailed it. I was taking all my extra stuff to the IRV2 rally in Branson, for the flea market. If ya see Mike again, tell him I said howdey, and go Eagles.
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Old 11-16-2008, 03:15 PM   #8
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So, VOW, Tell us more, Was it the fuse, solinode, or board???
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Old 03-31-2018, 09:39 PM   #9
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interconnect relay

I'm following up on a really old thread but hoping one of you has some info on this part of the circuit! My interconnect relay does not 'click' when the dash button is pressed but I find that the relay gets quite hot if the converter is charging the house batteries! I want to connect the house batteries to the engine start batteries so that my newly installed 100W solar panel can charge all 6 batteries when the sun shines. The 1A fuse is OK, so how do I test out the relay or solenoid to see if the start boost is actually working?'BTW I have just fitted a 100W charging solar system and will do a write up post here soon once I have tried it all out. Thanks
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Old 04-02-2018, 02:16 PM   #10
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TD: I assume you are referring to the solenoid mounted behind the battery control circuit board. It normally gets very hot to the touch when its coil is activated. If it is activated, you should not hear it click with application of the dash button since it is already on.

Disconnecting shore power and any solar battery sources should cause that solenoid to click off AFTER the battery voltage drops below somewhere around 13.2 volts, IF the control board is functioning properly. Applying a load such as your dc ceiling lights should speed up the decrease of voltage.

If you pull out the 1 amp fuse the solenoid should drop out and cool down, you should also hear it click off.
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Old 04-03-2018, 11:35 AM   #11
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Solenoid for start boost

Thanks M&EM, that helps a lot, ill follow your plan and report back! Thanks
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Old 04-03-2018, 01:04 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by the docktor View Post
Thanks M&EM, that helps a lot, ill follow your plan and report back! Thanks
Be careful working around that solenoid. You have house battery voltage on one side and chassis battery voltage on the other. Many amps and if you get it shorted you will get burned bad. With the coach unplugged, engine off, you can measure the voltage on the two small terminals on the solenoid. Should be 0, push the Aux start switch and you should hear a click and should have 12+ volts to those terminals. No voltage check the fuse. Check the voltage on the large cables to ground on each side and record the voltage. Now plug the coach in, check the voltage on the two small terminals. IF the coach batteries are 13.2 volts or more that solenoid should have 12+ volts on the two small terminals, and the voltage on each cable should be the same. If you have 12+ volts on the small wires, and have a different voltage on each side, that solenoid is bad and needs to be replaced. NOT an easy job, though.
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Old 04-03-2018, 02:23 PM   #13
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Should be 0, push the Aux start switch and you should hear a click and should have 12+ volts to those terminals. No voltage check the fuse. job, though.
You should only have voltage on one of the small terminals. The other should read 0 because it's the ground side of the coil.
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Old 04-03-2018, 02:47 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by the docktor View Post
I'm following up on a really old thread but hoping one of you has some info on this part of the circuit! My interconnect relay does not 'click' when the dash button is pressed but I find that the relay gets quite hot if the converter is charging the house batteries! I want to connect the house batteries to the engine start batteries so that my newly installed 100W solar panel can charge all 6 batteries when the sun shines. The 1A fuse is OK, so how do I test out the relay or solenoid to see if the start boost is actually working?'BTW I have just fitted a 100W charging solar system and will do a write up post here soon once I have tried it all out. Thanks
Call RV Custom Products and ask for the troubleshooting guide for you Battery Control Center (BCC) They will email to to you.

RV Custom Prodhcts
14000 Anson Ave,
Santa Fe Springs, CA 90670
(562) 921-8353

I have 540 watts of solar on my Dolphin and it charges my chassis batteries through the interconnect relay once the house batteries reach 13.5 volts.
When my interconnect relay failed a couple of years ago I replaced it with this.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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