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Old 05-11-2012, 07:52 PM   #29
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Ok here is another odd thing that I didnt notice before. When I start the RV the disconnect switch will automatically turn on. I can here the click and I look and the switch is lit up. Do you think it could be something in that switch?
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Old 05-13-2012, 08:10 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerrbe View Post
Ok here is another odd thing that I didnt notice before. When I start the RV the disconnect switch will automatically turn on. I can here the click and I look and the switch is lit up. Do you think it could be something in that switch?
When you start the motor, that should energize the Start/Boost solenoid to connect the chassis and coach batteries, which charges the coach batteries while going down the road. So that is normal.

In my '99, if the battery disconnect switch (BDS) is off (light out), when I start the motor, that does not turn the BDS on. It of course still charges the batteries. What you describe makes no sense to me. Starting the motor should not activate the BDS.

Do this experiment, no shore power, BDS off, make sure 12v lights, etc in coach are not working. Start motor and leave running. Now try 12v lights in coach. If they work, then running motor is activating BDS.

If they do not work, then the light on the BDS is just indicating the coach is getting power. Although this seems very strange, it's very possible this was a "feature" in '98...but discontinued in '99. Whatever the case, it doesn't seem likely that feature would be draining any batteries.
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Old 05-13-2012, 07:27 PM   #31
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Well I disconnected the new LP detector today. Trying to see if this is what is draining the battery since it is the only thing that was new this year. We never had a problem with the batteries before we bought the LP dectector. If that is the problem, I am going to put a inline switch in it so I can shut it off when we are storing the motorhome.

Talked to a service person at the RV shop and he thought it should shut off when I shut off the disconnect switch but mine doesn't, it still has the green light on.
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Old 05-14-2012, 06:45 AM   #32
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On your 12v distrbution panel (circuit board) the LP circuit is plugged into an un-switched circuit.

All you would need to do is move that wire and it's fuse to an unused switched circuit. Then it wouldn't be powered during storage.
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Old 05-18-2012, 10:37 PM   #33
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Well my husband learned a $115.00 dollar lesson today.

When you unhook the batteries make sure you know how they hook back up. I have spent 2 months trying to figure out what was going on with the electrical. Finally yesterday I called a mobile RV guy to come out and look at it. Told him everything we had tried. Actually it wasn't all my husbands fault, there was also a loose wire running to the converter so that wasn't helping. Somebody before we got the rv had spliced a wire to the converter and it was covered up with that black plastic wire cover stuff and we couldn't see the splice had come undone.

Also the wire that was on the wrong battery was one of the two that connect to the battery with one connection. So it was running to the coach battery instead of to the house battery. And the one that was on the house battery should have been hooked up to the coach battery. My husband swears he never took it apart when he replaced the batteries. (I am not sure if it was like that for the last 2 years, but I would have thought we would have had problems all along if it was.) So long story short we have finally fix our electrical problem.

Anyone in Northern Colorado that needs a great mobile RV service I would recommend "Colorado Mobile Repair" Tim is a great guy and charges less then the shops would have.

Thank you to everyone here that tried to help me figure this out.
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Old 05-19-2012, 11:31 AM   #34
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Consider yourself lucky. $115 is cheap to trace the electrical system and repair the PO's wiring mistake.

Congrats, now go camping
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