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Old 06-18-2007, 08:30 AM   #1
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I am having a problem leveling my coach side to side. The control panel has front jack, rear jack, right rear jack and left rear jack buttons. The instrutcions I was given was to lower the front, then lower the rear until I was level front to back. Then lower the right or left rear, whichever was lower side of coach to bring it level. When I do this it raises the rear of the coach and raises whichever jack was on the high side of the ground. The coach remains at the side to side out of level condition. Don't know if this makes sense to anyone, it didn't to the Power gear techs. He did guide me to a level control box that doesn't appear to be there.

Glenn
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Old 06-18-2007, 08:30 AM   #2
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I am having a problem leveling my coach side to side. The control panel has front jack, rear jack, right rear jack and left rear jack buttons. The instrutcions I was given was to lower the front, then lower the rear until I was level front to back. Then lower the right or left rear, whichever was lower side of coach to bring it level. When I do this it raises the rear of the coach and raises whichever jack was on the high side of the ground. The coach remains at the side to side out of level condition. Don't know if this makes sense to anyone, it didn't to the Power gear techs. He did guide me to a level control box that doesn't appear to be there.

Glenn
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Old 06-18-2007, 09:56 AM   #3
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Glenn, I presume this is not an automatic system? If it is a manual system, the leveling pump should shut off when you remove your finger from the various buttons. Once the levelers hit the ground I cycle the various buttons in short durations, maybe 2-3 seconds.

If you are saying the pump continues to run after you remove your fingers from the buttons, something is wrong.

Fred
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Old 06-18-2007, 10:07 AM   #4
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G&K,
I have experienced what you described. The procedure I use somewhat depends on the site conditions. Generally, I do just the opposite of the instruction you mention:

Since both side to side and front to back is controlled by the rear levelers, I do them first.

If the site rear is lower then the front:

A)I lower both rears together until I feel first ground contact of either side.

B)Then I jog each side a bit at a time only enough to feel that each side is in contact with the ground and to also get side to side leveling.

Doing this will also raise the rear somewhat and will keep both jacks in firmer contact with the ground. So, depending on the site, some judgment is required. Never get rear wheels off the ground!!

C)Once side to side level is good, check for front to back. if back is still lower then front continue to jog backs up watching side to side level.
After rear is slightly higher then front and level side to side, raise front slowly (jog it) until front to back is level.

If the rear of the site is slightly higher then the front:

Repeat A above. Check that both rear jacks are in contact with ground and supporting some sprung weight. Then do the first part of B above.
Since the site rear was high to begin with, Front jacks may not extend far enough to achieve front to back level without addition blocking under the jacks. If the site is otherwise desirable, the front wheels may be off the ground. This happens sometimes.

This process almost always works, again depending on the site. I carry sufficient(4 inches) of blocking material to block up a low side for both the wheels and the jacks of the low side.

Hope this is helpful.

Marty
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Old 06-18-2007, 11:09 AM   #5
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Wow M&EM, I wonder where my head was at. I shoulda thought of doing the rear jacks 1st. I think it was brain washing. It seems that evrything I've ever been told was "always drop the front jacks 1st". The dealer tech said that, the tech at Power gear said that when I called them. Everyone around when I was setting up has said that. I guess I just had that in my head.

Thanks a lot

Glenn
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Old 06-18-2007, 11:39 AM   #6
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Just another opinion.

Power gear leveling procedure states that the front jacks go down first, and must raise the coach at least 3 inches, this will create a pivot point for the rear jack when you go to level side to side. Got this info from www.powergearus.com another benefit of doing it this way that it will take stress off the windshield and a better chance of not popping out of its seat.
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Old 06-18-2007, 12:18 PM   #7
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IMHO,
The front two jacks seem to be hydraulically in parallel.(at least during system powered up). As such they act somewhat like a single center front jack and would eliminate twist the same whether front or rear is done first. Once the level system is powered off, maybe there could be a block between the two front cylinders. Not sure

Marty
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Old 06-18-2007, 01:07 PM   #8
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I am having same problem. I am going to try suggestions and see if this solves my side to side problem. I start level and then right side drops just enough to aggravate me when I look down the hall. So glad we got our forum.
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Old 06-18-2007, 01:43 PM   #9
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The more I thought about Richard S.'s opinion the more I have to agree with the logic for windshield pop outs.

I recall this had been an issue sometime back on certain manufacturers. Not sure if NRV was one of them.

However I still maintain my method. If levelness is that far off, blocking needs to be used anyway or finding another more suitable space is in order.

NRV has not designed very much leveling extension into my Dolphin forcing me to use the fronts and rears sparingly or with additional blocking..

Marty
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Old 06-18-2007, 06:02 PM   #10
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I would suggest using ramps under the wheels in addition to blocks under the jack rams if the rams appear close to full extension.

I would really stick with lowering the front jacks first. You way not pop the windshield out, but it may crack if enough stress is applied.

FWIW, NVR stresses lowering the front jacks first, when this question comes up at rallies.

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Old 06-18-2007, 06:48 PM   #11
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If I go with the front jacks 1st it will then twist the frame when I attempt to level side to side, because it doesn't even out on the front jacks. I would think that would be more apt to pop the windsheild. My problem is it does not pivot on the front jacks.

Glenn
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Old 06-18-2007, 07:13 PM   #12
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G&K
If there is no pivoting on the front jacks when you try to adjust side to side with the rears, I would guess that you have probably extended the front jacks all the way. Thats why I'd do the process I described a few posts back.

It seems that if I were to follow Power Gear procedure I rarely am able to raise chassis by 3 inches without fully extending the jacks.
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Old 06-19-2007, 09:42 AM   #13
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by M&EM:

It seems that if I were to follow Power Gear procedure I rarely am able to raise chassis by 3 inches without fully extending the jacks. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

This is why using ramps is important when you are that much out of level.

Fred
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