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Old 10-23-2010, 02:35 PM   #1
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Locked in

Last Saturday we got locked in our Sea Breeze LX. The latch broke. A friend and I tried to get the lock apart to see what was wrong. After about 30 min. we decided we needed a locksmith. Took him about 5 min. to get it apart, but we still could not get the door open. He had to climb in thru the passenger side window. I had already gone out thru the bedroom window and back in thru passenger window. The locksmith finally got all the pieces apart so door would open. Took about 1.5 hrs altogether. Now I need to get a new latch. I can't determine the Mfr so don't know where to go. Has anyone had to replace a door handle/latch on an 06 Sea Breeze LX and can tell me where to get one? I have looked at the parts places available on this forum with no luck. I tried to post pix if the latch to help ID it, but apparently that function is above my skill level.

Glenn
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Old 10-23-2010, 03:15 PM   #2
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My 07 is a TRIMARK link below, they have a EBAY sales site.
060-0650 Motor Home Entrance Door Hardware With Dead Bolt | TriMark Corporation=


http://stores.ebay.com/trimark-RV-do...638.m118.l1247
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Old 10-23-2010, 06:04 PM   #3
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Thanks RichardS, that's what I need. It's on order.

Glenn
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Old 10-23-2010, 08:30 PM   #4
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I had the exact same problem with my lock and it is the same one.
The latch broke and we had to drill out all the bolts in order to get the door open. I sent Trimark a message about it and they acted like it never happened and did nothing about it. Those locks are a piece of crap and Now I leave a window unlocked in case it ever happens again. But even with a window open the wife would not be able to climb in or out. I found a new lock at a MH dealer in Nashville.
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Old 10-25-2010, 05:02 PM   #5
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I found 2 things on my similar Tradewinds lock. First, the "plunger" lock on the inside of the door, the plunger can unscrew through use and once it unscrews enough you can't lock the door. Solution, screw it back in. 2nd, the dead bolt can get hard to open from the inside or out. Solution, take out the screws from the inside of the door, open the lock, use grease on the flat spring that the "cam" moves over.
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Old 10-25-2010, 06:27 PM   #6
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Darbyjudy, I was able to remove the screws with a torx driver.

VegasDan, the rear part of the plunger broke completely off, so had to get complete new latch system. Could not find any way to order just the plunger.

Glenn
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Old 11-01-2010, 02:23 PM   #7
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New latch came in Sat., installed it yesterday, ready to go. Latch broke last trip, battery blew its top off the trip before, what new adventure awaits on the trip we are starting tomorrow?

Glenn
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Old 11-01-2010, 02:54 PM   #8
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Every day is a gift even when RV problems happen.

BE SAFE
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Old 09-13-2011, 11:25 AM   #9
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Tri mark lock nightmare

I too was locked out of my 01 Trail lite MH because of a broken striker plate section that releases the door. After drilling thru a window frame to release the latch and crawl in I was able to spread the trim just above the latch area and push the striker back and open the door! The problem was a broken (potmetal) release cast as part of the striker. Calling Tri-Mark to get a replacement part was a waste of time as they do not sell parts only an entire unit for about $80.00. I asked about any improvement of this part and was told the complaints have been passed along to the higher ups but the new unit still has the same cheap failure prone part!! has anyone repaired this part???
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Old 09-13-2011, 05:30 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenn and Kathy View Post
Darbyjudy, I was able to remove the screws with a torx driver.

VegasDan, the rear part of the plunger broke completely off, so had to get complete new latch system. Could not find any way to order just the plunger.

Glenn
If you have the old plunger and latch still it might be possible to fix it

Two ways

Method one.. Give the broken pieces (and/or the plunger from the new one) to a machinest and let him carve you a new one out of steel instead of base metal.

Method two.

Carefully machine down the back (Smooth side) just enough that you can attach a flat metal shim to the back side, the result should be the same thickness over all as the original.. You will need to punch holes in the shim (not drill) and drill countersunk holes in the base metal part.. Two of the proper screws and grind the heads flat.. I've done this with basement locks...

In fact I've done both methods with basement locks.

And I could give you my opinion of those base metal plungers but.... Well..... Frankly.... The modertors would have to delete it. (And I'd not blame them either) so I will simply save them the trouble and let you imagine it.
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