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Richard S. · 03-27-2012, 06:52 AM

Retiredblade,

I believe the battery set up from the National RV factory was one large 12 volt battrie for starting and four 6 volts for the house.

Retiredblade · 03-27-2012, 02:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rook

The solenoid is mounted on the back side of the 12V Distribution Board, on the left side. Rook

Well, I found that solenoid, ran it through some tests, it was bad. What a bear getting it out. I happen to have a solenoid from a older Bounder I had, it tested good, so I put it after so minor alterations to the bracket. Both the coach batteries and chassis batteries are fully charged, I had my wife press the battery booster button, heard no click, I think that both banks being charged that it wouldn't. So, we will see, I am going to monitor the charge of the batteries for a few days, writing down the readings, it is plugged into shore power and chassis master switch turned off along with house master switch. Going to track down a space soleniod to have on have weather a original one or a auto solenoid.

Rook · 03-27-2012, 06:35 PM

blade......the boost solenoid should close (click) when the boost switch is turned on.......the level of battery charge, chassis or house, (assuming they are at least 10 volts), does not affect the operation of the boost solenoid. Sounds like the boost solenoid is not getting 12 volts to operate it's internal coil.....or the solenoid is bad. Rook

wb7auk · 03-27-2012, 06:59 PM

I have 2 heavy duty 12 volt batteries for starting and 4 extra heavy duty 6 volt for
house batteries. This is what the paper work states when delivered to the first owner.
This is a 1999 Tradwinds model 7371

Art

Retiredblade · 03-28-2012, 03:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rook

blade......the boost solenoid should close (click) when the boost switch is turned on.......the level of battery charge, chassis or house, (assuming they are at least 10 volts), does not affect the operation of the boost solenoid. Sounds like the boost solenoid is not getting 12 volts to operate it's internal coil.....or the solenoid is bad. Rook

Well, back to the trouble shooting, at least I know now how to get to that solenoid. I found places on the internet where I can buy the same brand of solenoid, varies in price, $80-$87. lot of money for a solenoid, don't know if a automotive one would hold up or not, don't know why it shouldn't, it is only suppose to be engaged for 30 second or so.
As far as batteries, I most likely will replace the engine start batteries as they are different brands and different age, I'm learning a lot about them also.

Richard S. · 03-28-2012, 05:55 AM

Solenoid on mine is a White Rodgers. Link below standars solenoid for a car will burn up.

White-Rodgers - 70-902 - Machine / Process Controllers - Contactors - Allied Electronics

Rook · 03-28-2012, 06:52 AM

blade.....a solenoid is just a "heavy duty" electrically actuated switch. The important thing is to replace the original with one that has the same or better current rating for the switched contacts. Any 12 volt solenoid that meets that requirement will do.....if you can mount it physically in the circuit. The one Richard S. mentioned might do the trick. Rook

Retiredblade · 03-29-2012, 04:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rook

blade.....a solenoid is just a "heavy duty" electrically actuated switch. The important thing is to replace the original with one that has the same or better current rating for the switched contacts. Any 12 volt solenoid that meets that requirement will do.....if you can mount it physically in the circuit. The one Richard S. mentioned might do the trick. Rook

I ordered up a solenoid (85Amp, 300amp surge, continuous duty) , and I ordered from Country Coach (who made the Dynomax chassis for National) the one schematic that I need that is missing from my owner's manual binder. But, I found another problem, there are no wires that I can find coming into the battery/inverter bay from the booster switch on the dash. On the printed curcuit board that I received from you, it shows on the back are the two wires soldered on it that goes to the booster solenoid, I have that. On the front side, P1 and P14 have no wires attached but P1, according to the schematic shows a wire labeled:Emgy start S #14 wht/red and P14 emgy start R #14 wht/yel. but they aren't there. So what I am going to have to down once I get the schematic is trace the wires down from the switch on the dash to the front compartment in front of the left wheel and see where it goes. This is strange, might have to rewire from the switch back to the battery bay. So that is where I am at now.

Rook · 03-29-2012, 05:24 AM

blade...a suggestion.....first, disconnect all wires from the boost switch.......then connect the two wires that are on coil terminals on the original solenoid together, or you could just short the terminals together......then using an ohm meter, measure for continuity (short) across the two wires from the boost switch that carry the 12 volts to the solenoid coil when the switch is pressed. If you measure a short then you know the wires from the switch to the solenoid are OK. If you get an "open", then you know one or both of the wires do not go directly to the solenoid coil. That means they are either open or there is another smaller relay being used as a switch to turn the solenoid on.

Retiredblade · 03-30-2012, 05:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rook

blade...a suggestion.....first, disconnect all wires from the boost switch.......then connect the two wires that are on coil terminals on the original solenoid together, or you could just short the terminals together......then using an ohm meter, measure for continuity (short) across the two wires from the boost switch that carry the 12 volts to the solenoid coil when the switch is pressed. If you measure a short then you know the wires from the switch to the solenoid are OK. If you get an "open", then you know one or both of the wires do not go directly to the solenoid coil. That means they are either open or there is another smaller relay being used as a switch to turn the solenoid on.

Rook, thanks for the info, yes, I was going to do that, weather kind of cold and I am waiting for that schematic from Country Coach. Mean while, I sit down once in a while and think about the problem and sometimes I come up with the answer. Like this morning, got up and was drinking coffee and realized I forgot to list a item on my taxes, so filing a amendment!
Amazing how the mind works! I'll keep you posted.

Retiredblade · 04-03-2012, 04:58 AM

Well, got the schematic from Country Coach, nice folks, but, wrong one, didn't have that one, glad to get it but I E mailed the fellow at CC to send me the right one. Traced the wiring coming from the dash, previous owner had those wires on the wrong terminals at the power control center. Got a solenoid, moved it from behind the control center to the side where I can test it in the future and replace it without removing the printed curcuit board.
Got the power booster working. Previous owner must have had problems with it, I took the old solenoid apart and it was burnt. Now I am waiting on two digital volt meters that I am going to install in the battery bay by the control center so I can monitor the voltage without using a ohm/volt meter all the time. Also, going to buy a new chassis starting battery or batteries.
Now I am going to move on to less stressing problems, like fixing a slide seal and ripping up the carpet and putting in laminate flooring.