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Need help in removing dometic side by side refrig
11-01-2010, 08:24 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner National RV Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 1,040
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I need to replace the plastic water feed line that goes from the water valve solenoid to the ice maker. I've removed 4 screws around the flange flush to cabinet in the kitchen area. The frig is still solidly stuck in the cabinetry.
Beside the gas line, I cannot see what else is holding the unit from moving into the hallway.
Anyone done this? What else needs to be undone in the chimney area or any where else?
Thanks.
Marty
__________________
2003 34' Dolphin 5342,
W22, UP, UPGBrake, F and R Track Bars, Rear IPD sway bar, Koni FSDs, Safe-T-Plus
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11-01-2010, 09:08 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
National RV Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,304
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I took mine out in a 99 Tradewinds to replace the icemaker line. I slid it out into the hall on a cooler that was about the right height. Didn't need to remove it all the way. I did have a problem with the insulation on the side walls. It fell down when the Fridge was removed. I had to get a rather small neighbor boy to clime into the hole from the outside and staple it back to the wall. I just didn't fit.
There were more than four screws holding it in. At least three on the top and three on the bottom. I had to remove the trim pieces to get to them. I found screws through the holes in the hinges on both doors. There were screws on the sides as well. When I finally found them all it slid out pretty easy so there should be no need to apply excessive force. If it doesn't move you missed a screw or two. I also had to buy silver tape, you'll see it on the back. I replaced mine with copper to hopefully avoid needing it again soon. There is a wire wrapped around the water line. This is a heater and you may choose to not put it back, With copper it was easy I just twisted it around the line and use black tape to hold it in place. There is no fitting on the top it's held in with caulking and the silver tape. Going into the icemaker there's no real pressure so it's OK that way.
Good luck. I broke one of my handles pulling it out and there almost impossible to find so be careful and pull on something else.
I just had to remove the AC plugs and the gas line, nothing on top for the vent.
I forget the model number of mine but here is a picture of it.
Dick
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11-01-2010, 09:56 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner National RV Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 1,040
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Thanks dick,
Yours looks pretty much like mine. Mine is NDR1292.
I found two screws thru the bottom hinge holes and 2 on the sides. On the top, after removing the top trim with the controls in it are two more mounting tabs but no screws in them. It feels like the to wants to move outward. The bottom feels like its held in by more screws but none I can find from the interior. I see what you describe about the water line going into the ice maker from within the freezer. I wonder if I could simply feed the new tube from inside the freezer??? And just try to hook it with wire or something. I don't plan on using the heaters. I am going to try to remove the interior part of the ice maker and see about pushing a tube thru the entry opening.
Marty
__________________
2003 34' Dolphin 5342,
W22, UP, UPGBrake, F and R Track Bars, Rear IPD sway bar, Koni FSDs, Safe-T-Plus
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11-01-2010, 10:48 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner National RV Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 1,040
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Got the ice maker out but not able to fish a new tube thru the water chute. Have to wait to get to the chimney side as the RV cover is still on it.
__________________
2003 34' Dolphin 5342,
W22, UP, UPGBrake, F and R Track Bars, Rear IPD sway bar, Koni FSDs, Safe-T-Plus
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11-01-2010, 11:00 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Wet Coast of Canada
Posts: 307
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There should be a Large screw on either side of the Bottom on the Back side of the Fridge. Go through that Outer access panel.
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Rob
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11-02-2010, 05:13 AM
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#6
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Community Administrator
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Newark, DE
Posts: 13,894
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobRV
There should be a Large screw on either side of the Bottom on the Back side of the Fridge. Go through that Outer access panel.
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Mine is secured from the outside also.
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Adios, Dirk - '84 Real Lite Truck Camper, '86 Wilderness Cimarron TT, '07 DSDP, '11 Virtual RV

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11-02-2010, 07:04 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
National RV Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,304
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Now that Rob mentioned it I remember screws going down into the floor near the outside edge, accessible from the outside with the vent off. Sorry
Dick
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11-02-2010, 08:40 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner National RV Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 1,040
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Thanks all,
I will try to get under the rv cover today and locate those screws. I recall seeing a fair amount of tar like caulking at the floor of the backside of the unit when I last had the access cover off. Those screws may be covered in that stuff. But at least I know now to look for them. Thanks again for the pointers.
Marty
__________________
2003 34' Dolphin 5342,
W22, UP, UPGBrake, F and R Track Bars, Rear IPD sway bar, Koni FSDs, Safe-T-Plus
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11-02-2010, 06:53 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner National RV Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 1,040
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Just an update. I finally got the frig out into the hallway enough to remove the water chute and old tubing.
After removing the last two screw behind the access panel, I still was unable to budge the unit. Turned out the factory laid on a half inch+ of RTV along the bottom edge of the rear frig sheet metal effectively gluing it in place as well as sealing against any water entry thru the access cover. Once that was removed the unit slid out very easily into the hall way supported on a crate and some wood. I did use 1/4 copper tubing and high temp aluminum tape to re wrap the heater wires. Used same tape to attach and secure to the back side. Took lots of picts I may post when I get a chance. I spent about 2-3 hours once I located all the attachments. I would have spent lots more time without the help of this forum. Thanks members.
Marty
__________________
2003 34' Dolphin 5342,
W22, UP, UPGBrake, F and R Track Bars, Rear IPD sway bar, Koni FSDs, Safe-T-Plus
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11-02-2010, 07:11 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
National RV Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,304
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Marty
WTG !
It's a nasty job but the copper tubing should put it off for a long while.
My icemaker worked a lot better after replaceing the line.
Did you have any problems with insulation inside the cavity?
Dick
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11-02-2010, 07:14 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner National RV Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 1,040
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Dick, No problems. Came straight out and insulation stayed in place. Went straight back in. Only mess will be resealing like NRV did.
Marty
__________________
2003 34' Dolphin 5342,
W22, UP, UPGBrake, F and R Track Bars, Rear IPD sway bar, Koni FSDs, Safe-T-Plus
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