 |
No heat in bed room or bathroom
12-06-2009, 04:48 PM
|
#1
|
|
Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Arcadia, CA
Posts: 109
|
I started this thread before and some how it got hijacked. I have no heat in the bedroom or bathroom and one other outlet in the hall. I took a good look yesterday and now I know why but I am not sure what the fix is. There is a plenum blocked off by a piece of sheet metal which is right under the burner. I don't see an easy way to get it out without taking the furnace all apart. It is about 10 inches by 12 inches. I guess the mgfr left it in there. It is blocking the air from getting to the plenum which feeds all 3 rear outlets. It looks like a mgfr mistake but I am not sure. It looks like the easiest way to fix it is to cut a hole in the plenum with a nibbler and take one of the hoses off the one of the front outlets and route it to the hole just cut in the plenum. I know this is hard to understand but if you have this problem, take a look at it by removing the screen under the fridge. Any ideas or fixes would be appreciated.
__________________
Lee and Joan Haeberlein
08 Dolphin on WorkHorse W24
|
|
|
|
| |
|
 |
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!
iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!
|
12-06-2009, 05:52 PM
|
#2
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: N. Central AZ
Posts: 207
|
Lee, I have not had the problem you describe, but have had other issues that gave me reason to to take the furnace out and look at every thing. National RV used flimsy slinky type ducting. If there was not enough room to get it through a space or around a corner, no problem, they just smashed it down and forced it, leaving very little space for air to flow. You can see it by taking the return air screen off. I guess I have strong blower because the whole place heats up. Have only used the heat at night very few times, just don't like a heated bedroom, but the bath room heats up nicely.
Good luck, ...and watch out for those hyjackers
Harold
__________________
'01 National RV Tropi-Cal, Ford V10, '01 Suzuki GV 4X4 Blue Ox Tow Bar,300 Watts Solar, 2500 Watt '458' Inverter, NO TVs
|
|
|
|
| |
|
12-14-2009, 11:04 AM
|
#3
|
|
Senior Member
National RV Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,447
|
Is the rear furnace working? If you hear it running is it that you just aren't getting any air flow? We have a Tradewinds and found that our front furnace will not work sometimes when the rear is operating due to the fact the shared thermostat is in the "hallway" and when the hall way is warmed by the rear furnace the front furnace will not run.
__________________
2001 National Tradewinds 7370 300 Cat
2011 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sport
Officially fulltiming. The Journey Begins
|
|
|
|
| |
|
12-14-2009, 12:16 PM
|
#4
|
|
Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner National RV Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 1,009
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by LeeSoCal
I guess the mgfr left it in there. It is blocking the air from getting to the plenum which feeds all 3 rear outlets. It looks like a mgfr mistake but I am not sure. It looks like the easiest way to fix it is to cut a hole in the plenum with a nibbler and take one of the hoses off the one of the front outlets and route it to the hole just cut in the plenum. I know this is hard to understand but if you have this problem, take a look at it by removing the screen under the fridge. Any ideas or fixes would be appreciated.
|
Lee, I just took a look at my furnace arrangement because of similar poor heating to bath and bedroom. I removed duct at the plenum to see if there was a sheet metal obstruction but there wasn't. As mentioned by above poster the duct work is scrawny and jammed in some tight places going rearward. And in mine the duct size is smaller then is used for the forward going ducts. Early on, I asked factory to check out heat delivery to bedroom. Their response was "it was designed to deliver less heat to that area" In your case maybe rerouting to a different plenum outlet makes the most sense. In mine there are 2 extra plenum knockouts that could be used. Yours being a later model is probably different. I took some photos. If you need some reference give me a PM.
Marty
__________________
2003 34' Dolphin 5342,
W22, UP, UPGBrake, F and R Track Bars, Rear IPD sway bar, Koni FSDs, Safe-T-Plus
|
|
|
|
| |
|
12-14-2009, 05:19 PM
|
#5
|
|
Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Arcadia, CA
Posts: 109
|
Thanks Marty for the reply. I haven't done anything to the furnace since it is in storage 25 miles from my house. I am going to measure the hose size and get the right sheet metal outlets and then cut a hole in the flat plenum going to the rear. It is the flat one that has to go under the floor so the pocket door will work. Then I will take a hose from the front plenum and remove it and connect it to the hole I just cut. Then I will block the outlet that I just removed the hose from. I will then see how it works. I will be careful to not destroy anything in case I have to put it back the way it was. I am surprised that other guys are not having this same trouble. I had an 03 Dolphin and it was the same way. Several guys I have talked to just say to buy a small electric heater and set it in the bedroom.
__________________
Lee and Joan Haeberlein
08 Dolphin on WorkHorse W24
|
|
|
|
| |
|
12-19-2009, 06:59 PM
|
#6
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 145
|
We just took delivery on our 2008 Pacifica this week. The duct from the rear furnace in the bathroom was not delivering any heat, yet the bedroom was nice and warm. We brought this to the attention of the service tech who did a little looking around. Turns out that the duct to the bathroom was never hooked up to the outlet at the rear furnace. He also said that he was able to cut off and remove over 6 feet of extra duct that was not needed but was only excess waste.
__________________
|
|
|
|
| |
|
national rv- little or no heat in bed or bathroom
12-20-2009, 09:13 AM
|
#7
|
|
Senior Member
National RV Owners Club Nor'easters Club
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 127
|
I have a '03 dolphin with basicly the same problem, I removed the grille work below the fridge, and started checking the heating ducts an found that there are two ducts that below the floor line. Well one feeds the bath and bed room and the other feeds heat to the water tank. The duct work to the water tank is wide open allowing a lot of heat to be directed in that area.
__________________
|
|
|
|
| |
|
12-20-2009, 11:37 AM
|
#8
|
|
Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner National RV Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 1,009
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by tims52ford
I have a '03 dolphin The duct work to the water tank is wide open allowing a lot of heat to be directed in that area.
|
Exactly what I found on mine while it was still under warranty.
NRV fix was to place an adjustable grill outlet to the grey water tank/basement outlet to enable throttling down heat flow to that space and to hopefully get more heat to the bath/bedroom. Was marginally improved.
For our use it has been adequate. The major heat to bedroom comes from rear ward facing outlet from furnace area into rear hallway.
The original ductwork to the bath/bedroom is reduced in diameter at the plenum then is contorted thru the floor to the basement and backup thru the floor to the bath where it is teed to the bedroom.
Only way I see to improve is to up the diameter of duct to the bath. A really tight fit in that region of the basement makes that improvement hard to implement. There are the main shower drain/vent for grey and electrical wiring cramped together above the grey tank.
Marty
__________________
2003 34' Dolphin 5342,
W22, UP, UPGBrake, F and R Track Bars, Rear IPD sway bar, Koni FSDs, Safe-T-Plus
|
|
|
|
| |
|
 |
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
|
| Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
|
| Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|

»
Recent Discussions

»
Upcoming Rallies
No events scheduled in the next 365 days.
|
»
iRV2 on facebook
|