No Running Lights on Trailer behind RV

[BFlinn181]

Originally Posted by Honey_Hole

All lights work on the rv the marker and tail lights when headlights are on. The trailer is just a car hauler and has two tail lights that stay lite when the head lights are on, those are not working.

If it turns out to be a bad wire from front to back, then you might consider taking a wire tap from an RV tail light, install a fuse in the wire, and connect it to your connector. I thought you had tail lights, clearance, and side lights on the trailer. For only two bulbs, perhaps replaced with LEDs, the power draw is minimal and could be handled by the RV tail light circuit.

[Honey_Hole]

Originally Posted by BFlinn181

If it turns out to be a bad wire from front to back, then you might consider taking a wire tap from an RV tail light, install a fuse in the wire, and connect it to your connector. I thought you had tail lights, clearance, and side lights on the trailer. For only two bulbs, perhaps replaced with LEDs, the power draw is minimal and could be handled by the RV tail light circuit.

They are already LEDs I was thinking the same thing. I am running out of town and it suppose to start raining here. So I think I will just tap into a wire in the rear for now

[l1v3fr33ord1]

The wiring runs from front to back terminate on two Ford connectors. They should be located inside the left frame rail, about two to eight feet from the rear of the coach. Both the coach and trailer signals usually terminate on these connectors. Just to the rear of them is where the manufacturer splices on his wiring to run to the trailer connector.

If it turns out that the relay is getting and sending the signal to the rear, the next place I'd look for a problem is in the splice bundle, just aft of the Ford connectors. You can't really test at the connectors themselves unless you take them apart, which I would recommend doing only if I had to, because the (plastic) connector lock tabs get brittle with age and may break off.

If you choose to tap a wire, you'll be in the area of the splices.

One fellow found that the factory had shot a screw through a connector, which shorted some of the signals intermittently. More likely is that the splice for the trailer marker/running lights has failed. If they're not well-wrapped, or made with unsealed butt splices, the wires can corrode and break off in the splice.

[Rprowell]

I see this problem has been addressed before, but did anyone ever find out where the problem is? I had running lights on a car dolly when I first embarked on our trip from Arizona to South Carolina and we encountered some heavy winds on I-10 near El Paso Texas. After that our running lights went out and haven’t worked since. I had to replace the plug on my dolly in Shreveport LA. due to another issue and I hired a tech to check and see if he could fix the running light issue, but to no avail. So, I’m calling out to the group, does anyone know where the fuse or relay that controls the trailer running lights on a Ford Triton V10 chassis is? Our coach is a 2015 Winnebago Adventurer 35P. I would really appreciate any help or suggestions on this.

[l1v3fr33ord1]

Rprowell-

According to the 2015 F-53 owner's manual, check Fuse #15 in the Power Distribution Box (PDB, page 61, link here), and also check Relay #8 in the Diode and Relay Module (DRM, page 67, link here). Both the PDB and DRM are under the hood, against the firewall, above the radiator, about on the centerline. The DRM may be above or below the PDB.