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one way valve on water heater
Old 11-20-2010, 11:03 PM   #1
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This is kinda old because it happened on my first trip out after purchasing MH. The hot water heater got a drip leak in the pipe just when it comes out of the water heater, called a plumber that i knew to come repair the leak because no one else was available. He repaired the leak and in doing so removed a section of pipe that had a one way valve in it, water out but none in. I asked him why he did this and he said it was not needed anyway as they remove them from home hot water heaters anyway. I noticed when i pumped anti-freeze to winterize the unit i noticed the anti freeze coming out the plug that i removed to drain the hot water heater. I have a by-pass valve in the water hook-up storage area that is supposed to bypass the hotwater heater, but it did not do it. could the oneway valve that the plumber removed be the problem. I put the plug back in the water heater and continued to pump anti-freeze and it came out of all the faucets and went into the pee traps for all. Is this one way valve needed for my unit as i still have the valve, and if not why ws it put in there in the first place. 2000 tradewinds 7373 Rivrduk

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Old 11-20-2010, 11:21 PM   #2
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Here is a thread that will explain what your valve is for you should have three if they are set correctly should get no Anti in your HWH when winterizing.

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Old 11-21-2010, 07:29 AM   #3
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One of the reason for the check valve is to prevent antifreeze from entering the water heater when winterizing.It also prevents backfeeding into the cold water line.If you plan on winterizing without using a lot of antifreeze some sort of valve is necessary.A check valve is automatic but a ball valve would also work.The ball valve would probably eliminate the shower getting cold when on pause.The check valve adds a little backpressure to the hot so the cold fills the shower line.Just my opinion and everyone is entitled to my opinion.
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Old 11-21-2010, 09:27 AM   #4
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Duk

You really should have the check valve.

Reason 1: Antifreeze is really hard to flush out of the Water Heater and isn't needed if it's drained for winter.

Reason 2: Antifreeze Tastes awful and clouds the water. It will also foam in running water. It took about three weeks of use for us to get rid of these symptoms when I allowed Antifreeze in the Water Tank the first year we owned the Coach.

Reason 3: When water heats it creates pressure, why they install a pressure relief valve on all water heaters. This pressure will flow Hot Water into the Cold water system while running a Cold Bib partially emptying the Heater. Then when the cold is shut off the Heater refills with cold water. Not dangerous or anything but will cause the water heater to come on more often. It's possible the heater would come on while running cold water only.


BTW: I’ve never seen a Check Valve installed in a Sticks and Bricks House, so I would suspect the statement "There removed all the time".

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Old 11-21-2010, 11:05 AM   #5
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It seems as if i got my thread hi jacked. I have a hot water bypass valve in the water hookup storage area that i turned off in order to apply antifreeze without getting 6 gallons in the waterr heater. That is not the valve i am talking about. When the plumber removed the dripping part of the hot water out line it had a one way valve (metal) screwed into the hotwater tank then the piping to the hot water outlets was attached to that. He did not replace the one way valve that was attached to the HW tank. He just plumed it up without reattaching the one way valve. I have it beside me as i type this. My questions are these: Why is it in the line if i have a hot water tank valve bypass in the water hook up section, and why did anti freeze get into the hot water tank with the bypass valve in water hook up area turned off. The hot water tank works perfectly, but i am wondering if it is necessary to replumb with the one way valve attached back into the outlet line. If not i am wondering why it was put in there to start with. If you have a 2000 tradewinds 7373 look under the kitchen sink,remove the removeable covering to the right and you will see what i am talking about( a flashlight will be needed to see the valve attached to the hot water heater outlet line) I talked to the shop where i purchased the MH from on the phone and they act like they dont know what i am talking about and i had it in my hand when i was describing it to them. Your help will be much appreciated. Rivrduk
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Old 11-21-2010, 11:33 AM   #6
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Would it be possible for you to call me, because you seem to be so knowledgeable about the MH business. I could pose the question and get your answer very quickly that way. you can call me collect at: 580-226-1525 or my E-mail is rivrduk2@aol.com. I am lost on this motor home, but soon i hop to know what you know. Thanks, rivrduk
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Old 11-21-2010, 04:31 PM   #7
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Noone hijacked your thread. THe one way or check valve prevents backfeeding antifreeze into the hw tank.When you turn the bypass it send water thru the pipes. If the check valve is not there the liquid backfeeds into the tank.I talked to your answering machine and left my # if you have any questions.
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Old 11-21-2010, 04:33 PM   #8
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Duk

To bypass the hot water tank requires two valves. One to stop water going into the cold water inlet of the heater tank and one to stop water from going into the hot water outlet of the tank. The valve you turn by hand stops the water going into the cold water inlet. If you don't turn a second valve then a check valve is required to stop the water going into the hot water outlet. Here is a link to some pictures of two and three valve systems.
http://www.rverscorner.com/bypass.html
As you can see all the bypass is, is a piece of hose connecting the inlet to the outlet. The valve you turn diverts the water to this hose and closes the inlet but the outlet side is still connected, a valve is required to stop the flow back into the outlet. The antifreeze went into the tank outlet hole because the check valve was removed. It really doesn't matter if it's a check valve or a turntable valve. If it's turntable then you need to remember to do both valves when you bypass or put the heater back in service. A ganged valve could be used to do both at the same time but they require additional plumbing and cost a lot more. Manufactures us a check valve to save costs and they work just as well.

I'm not sure who you wanted to call you but if it's me I will.

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Old 11-21-2010, 10:25 PM   #9
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Thanks, i now understand, I will get the same plumber to reinstall the check valve as he made it possible for me to continue camping at the time of the repairs, but he didnt know or didnt really care. I am going to purchase a new check valve or i will have him put an off and on valve inline that i can turn off and on as need be. Thanks for your help and calling me. rivrduk
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Old 11-22-2010, 02:11 PM   #10
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According to a wholesale plumbing company i will need a new check valve, but none in this town has one. I called the company that made it and they cannot identify the part by the numbers on the part. It is a watts 1/2 inch CN6. Would you have any idea where i might get one. It is male on both ends. I took the plug out of the heater to drain the anti freeze and some ran out, but it caught me by surprise as it was pressurized. I guess my pumping the AF in pressurized it. I guess about a quart ran out. Rivrduk
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Old 11-22-2010, 04:09 PM   #11
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Maybe this will help

Watts - Plumbing, Heating and Water Quality Products Manufacturer
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Old 11-22-2010, 08:57 PM   #12
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Duk

Here is a brass one from Home Depot.
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xif/R-100156561/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

It's double female but you can buy short nipples to make it male to mail or mail to female.
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xif/R-100643750/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

I would think it you just took the hose off the water heater and installed it there you would need a male to female check valve. Unless you worry about dissimilar metals then in line with the hose is probably better. I didn't see a plastic one on line but I'm sure they have it at the Depot. Plastic would be less costly but water at 120 deg would bother me. I'm sure it wouldn't melt it but over time it may distort the plunger and start leaking back into the Water Heater. Just my opinion.

Just be sure to install it in the right direction, water leaving the water heater.

There is nothing special about the valve but I would use a brass one they last longer than plastic.

Dick
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Old 11-23-2010, 06:44 AM   #13
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I called Watts and they didnt know what i was talking about. I guess they made just one and i have it. I gave them the info on the valve and they never heard of it. Duk
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Old 11-23-2010, 06:53 AM   #14
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The brass pipe nipple looks just like my flow valve except that my valve has a hex nut thing in the middle to tighten it into the heater tank. It is such a tight working space and very hard to get to for anything other than the original valve. Thanks, Duk

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