Powergear Hyd pump motor failure-Crap

[RUNDLC]

It was suggested that I start a new thread since this motor issue was buried in a different thread on a no start so here we go. A little back ground.

I didn't have an issue with my jacks until a week ago, we were camping and when we returned the trouble started, now it may have been building up into an issue because SOMEBODY, me with hand up was using the wrong procedure to put the slide out and level the coach.

I didn't pay attention to the little warning tag that says "Level coach before moving slide out" or something to that nature. I had been moving the slide out, then putting down rear jacks and finally front jacks. I know, I know WRONG So if this is the cause of my jack failure I take the blame.

The last time I used the procedure the fronts went down to engage the ground and began to lift the front and then all of a sudden it stopped before it would level out. I retracted all jacks, turned off the key "thinking" Ill just restart the process, turned key on, turned on system, green light illuminates (no blinking) push front jacks and NOTHING.

I emailed tech services and they gave me the rundown on what things to check, #8 blue wire, any power? Check. grounds ok? yes check! Ok your solenoid is bad you need to replace it. I buy one from Northwest RV supply at a cost of 114.00 shipped to my door in 2 days (great service BTW)

I installed the new solenoid and fired it up nothing!! So next was checking the motor, Skip, a fellow forum brother suggested jumping the hot side directly to the motor to no avail., so I am now into taking the motor out I didn't think I would have enough room but she is out. The main bearing was not rusted so I don't think Ill have to replace the seal on the port plate.

I have found a new motor on the net for around 290.00 shipped.

I sure pray this was my issue! Pic shows what motor looked like when removed, this was not too difficult to get off either.

Ill let you know if my power gear jacks come back to life.

[BFlinn181]

Have you tried turning the shaft of the hydraulic pump? It could be the culprit. I'd try to see if it's free to rotate before putting everything back.

[RUNDLC]

BFlinn, yes I did I wanted to make sure of that. I suppose it should turn just with a finger turn??

[BFlinn181]

Originally Posted by RUNDLC

BFlinn, yes I did I wanted to make sure of that. I suppose it should turn just with a finger turn??

Or needle nose pliers.

[RUNDLC]

OK I followed my first thought, have the motor rebuilt! I take it to a local shop to find out what the cost would be, the guy takes into the back to inspect it, He says wish I could take your money but there is nothing wrong with the motor. He precedes to put a hot 12v & ground and the motor starts working!! He says you want to see it work again just to be sure? of course I say. The motor spins again.

I call my buddy Bob up to say well I gotta start over, I remove all the grounds attached to the pump housing, clean them thoroughly and put them back together. Try to extend the jacks NOTHING!

At this point I have replaced the solenoid, pulled the pump motor to verify that it is indeed working (just not while on the pump) I turn my attention to the control pad, I verify that it a works, all fuses are good, When the key is energized you can push the extend jacks button and actually hear the #8 trigger wire talk to the solenoid so my guess is that the issue is not the controller pad either.

The PG tech says the controller is the next thing that should be replace, but I am very hesitant to buy one for fear that it will not solve my issue!

My next step is to run a cable directly from the battery to the positive side of the motor to see what happens. At this point I am really not having fun with this!

Does anyone have any type of electrical wiring diagram for the Islander jack system? Is it possible that there is a fusible link somewhere shutting this thing down?

still jackless in Elk Grove

[Richard S.]

There is a inline fuse close to the pump and motor.

UP in the files there is a manual for POWERGEAR jacks, and it has some electrical drawings.

[RUNDLC]

Thanks Richard!

I did download the files. I did see in the inline fuse on paper but finding it at the harness is a different story. There is supposed to be a 10 amp fuse between the battery and valves, I don't see it, but that fuse should not keep the motor from getting power.

I am going to try and do a straight jump from the chassis battery straight to the pump motor, if that doesn't work its take it to the shop time.

[RUNDLC]

I got a call from my mechanic, come pick up your rv !! YES, but with that a big bill needed to be paid. Turns out it wasn't the solenoid 114.00 which pG said to replace, it wasn't the motor which was the next thing PG tech said to replace (would have cost 300.00) It was a small circuit breaker behind the control board on the pass side above the batteries. The main 12v cable had worked its way loose and couldn't produce the amps needed to power the motor. This 23.00 part was the issue.





My jacks are now working fine, my advice is maybe next time get a little mor professional advice, it would have in the end saved at least the 114.00! I for one would not have known to look behind the main circuit board to find this breaker.


This lack of knowledge cost me 353.00 in labor @ 125.00 per hour. I guess that's the going rate for big rv repair shops and I guess if you cant take the heat.. well you know the rest. These are luxury items and when its time to pay up you better either have some good buddies (which I do to lend their advice) otherwise its money out the door.


Have jacks in Elk Grove

[BFlinn181]

Thanks for the reporting back on you solution. I wonder how many other hidden circuit breakers or fuses you have?

It's maddening when an RV is thrown together with parts from all different vendors and the RV manufacturer doesn't take the time to organize the interconnections to make problem solving simpler down the road.