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Old 01-08-2017, 08:52 AM   #1
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Rear furnace not responding to Stat

Here we go again, i have just posted about an inverter remote issue, now we have a furnace issue. I am so glad to be in Denver, where its cold. J/K

Our Rear furnace, had just been serviced because it wouldn't operate, the Tech said the board was bad and replaced it.

After a t-stat reset the furnace still wouldn't operate, the tech bypassed the T-Stat and the furnace worked fine. He said replace the Duo Therm 5 button Thermostat. Of course...whats left? That cost me 380.00 to get his far.

So a couple days later when i have been researching this issue, the rear furnace just starts up and the pilot lights and we have heat, works for a few days then wont work. We reset the Duo Therm again, i even unplug the Thermostat from the wall, nothing. Then in a hour or so of nothing the rear furnace turns on and starts working.

Now it has quit again, last night at around midnight...its 15 deg out of course. We even turned the temp to 90 on the Stat..still nothing
We cycled through all the zones, and setting ...... both AC's , all fan setting, and front furnace all function...the only thing not working is the rear furnace. 8.48 am still nothing from the rear furnace..space heater is running overtime!

Should i just buy a new thermostat? We saw them on E-bay and amazon, same model #3109228 as we have.

Thank you again for your help. Dave and Dayna
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Old 01-08-2017, 09:48 AM   #2
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Assuming the front furnace is working something which should be easy to check would be to go to the thermostat and swap the wires from the front and back units. On my 04 National they used what looked like phone cord connections which you could just unplug. I once solved a problem just by unplugging and plugging back in.
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Old 01-08-2017, 10:08 AM   #3
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Not knowing your Electrical trouble shooting skills, I'll ask do you have a DVM or a VOM and do you know how to use them? Without these skills, you have little chance of finding what might be a simple problem. Trial and error substitution can be very expensive. Rook
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Old 01-08-2017, 11:48 AM   #4
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Rook, i do have a Klein mm1000, but my knowledge is ..basically ...novice. I can test.

Can you help with LCD symbols, and probe?
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Old 01-08-2017, 01:05 PM   #5
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OK, that's a DVM. All you will need to know is how to mesure DC voltage and maybe Continuity. Next question, what model, mfg., Heater do you have. If it's an Atwood, you will find the model number by removing the outside cover, there is a label on the fan housing, The model is the one with the "tick" (punch) next to it. If it's a Surburban, then someone else will have to help you. All my info, schematics and knowledge is on Atwoods.
Next, is your Thermostat 4 or 5 button. Rook.
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Old 01-08-2017, 01:16 PM   #6
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Quote:
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OK, that's a DVM. All you will need to know is how to mesure DC voltage and maybe Continuity. Next question, what model, mfg., Heater do you have. If it's an Atwood, you will find the model number by removing the outside cover, there is a label on the fan housing, The model is the one with the "tick" (punch) next to it. If it's a Surburban, then someone else will have to help you. All my info, schematics and knowledge is on Atwoods.
Next, is your Thermostat 4 or 5 button. Rook.
Thanks Rook, 5 button, the furnace is an ATWOOD MODEL 8535-IV DCLP.

I got frustrated and put the "old no good circuit board" back in and
the new one out. The same thing happens...the front furnace and both AC work...just not back furnace....does that shed any light?
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Old 01-08-2017, 02:03 PM   #7
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You likely have two good boards.....keep the one you don't use as a spare or you can sell it on eBay. I'm sending you an abbreviated service Manual. Study the diagram on page 10 for your model. You will see that the Thermostat, when closed, simply sends 12 VDC to the left side of the relay (blue wire),that closes the relay, powering the motor and then the circuit board. Measure that connection, blue wire, for 12 VDC when Thermostat calls for heat. If no 12VDC, then bad thermostat or defective wiring, plugs, connections between Thermostat and heater. To test, jumper 12VDC to that connection, heater will come on and operate normally and stay on until you remove the 12VDC. Rook

hflamefurn04.pdf
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Old 01-08-2017, 03:29 PM   #8
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Thank for the help and experience. The Service Call was a total waste, and i do have 2 working Control panels, the culprit was this connection, was loose, i fould that after i jumped the blue motor wire....got 14.4 volts to all wires to that connection..as i wiggled that connection the furnace stuttered...then shut off, i assume the voltage drop signaled the circuit board to shut off the connection....this probably is why the furnace would work for a while then go dormant.??

Spent well over 300 bucks for a part changer tech...i could have got lotto tickets!!!

Thanks again Rook!!! Dave n Dayna Dechent
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Old 01-08-2017, 03:30 PM   #9
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Just a quick aside. I had problems with thermostat board also. Replaced it twice and developed same problem.
Changed fluorescent lights to led and thermostat has not acted up since.
Why....IDK? Something about the ballast.
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Old 01-08-2017, 03:34 PM   #10
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picture of connection
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Old 01-08-2017, 04:05 PM   #11
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I was wrong....the furnace cycled to temp only 3 times before not coming back on.

And i was so quick to gripe about the tech.....
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Old 01-13-2017, 08:12 PM   #12
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Does the blower kick on then cycle off without the burner lighting? If so you could have a bad sail switch. Just had this issue with our front heater.
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Old 01-13-2017, 08:31 PM   #13
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Give us an update.....when you jumper 12VDC to the blue wire terminal on the relay, exactly what happens, step by step sequence. Rook
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Old 01-13-2017, 10:42 PM   #14
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Quote:
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Give us an update.....when you jumper 12VDC to the blue wire terminal on the relay, exactly what happens, step by step sequence. Rook
Rook, i have been pulling my hair out. The parts supply told me if the 2 blue wires were jumpered, the t-stat would be by passed..i also did that, and after about 10 seconds the burners ignited, and the furnace ran 2 cycles....then quit. The furnace went dormant for 3 days..then today POOF its working..

Rook, could it be a remote temp sensor located in the bedroom? I have a replacment T-Stat installed did that 3 days ago, and the new circuit board from the repair service.

The switch red wire 14.1 volts
blue power wire 14.1 volts
other blue wire to circuit board 1.43 volts...amps...?

Rook i am very unsmart about all that is electrical
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