Refrigerator removal -- 2001 Tradewinds

[Ragman]

My 2001 Tradewinds has a double door Dometic refrigerator, Model NDR 1292. I was following another thread on removing the fridge, but can't seem to find the thread again.

My problem is, I have taken two screws from each side of the refrig. and freezer; and the two from the bottom. I also removed the top molding where I understood there were two more screws. National evidently didn't put those last two in.

I removed the outside door, including the flange and removed all the silicone across the bottom where I understand there were suppose to be two more screws. There are two wood screws that hold the plywood down and also a place where the plywood has been nailed. I saw two holes in the metal where I assume there were suppose to have been "hold down" screws. My problem is, I cannot get the refrigerator/freezer to move. It's still a solid as a rock.

If anyone has removed this type of refrigerator and knows the trick to get it out, I sure would appreciate hearing from you.

I am replacing the ice maker tubing. Thank you.

Larry

[sgtjoe]

Do you have the original book for that model? I have the same model and followed the installation book for the screw locations, and it was still not moving easy. I found that it was like glued/sealed in place. I have the book and will look it over to see if you missed something. Once you replace the line take the fuse out of the heat line that runs along the water line.

[M&EM]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ragman My 2001 Tradewinds has a double door Dometic refrigerator, Model NDR 1292. I was following another thread on removing the fridge, but can't seem to find the thread again. My problem is, I have taken two screws from each side of the refrig. and freezer; and the two from the bottom. I also removed the top molding where I understood there were two more screws. National evidently didn't put those last two in. I removed the outside door, including the flange and removed all the silicone across the bottom where I understand there were suppose to be two more screws. There are two wood screws that hold the plywood down and also a place where the plywood has been nailed. I saw two holes in the metal where I assume there were suppose to have been "hold down" screws. My problem is, I cannot get the refrigerator/freezer to move. It's still a solid as a rock. If anyone has removed this type of refrigerator and knows the trick to get it out, I sure would appreciate hearing from you. I am replacing the ice maker tubing. Thank you. Larry

Larry, I think you refer to my recent post. try here Need help in removing dometic side by side refrig

Marty

[M&EM]

Larry, I just posted some photos of my ice maker fill tube replacement here NDR1292 removal - iRV2.com RV Photo Gallery

[Ragman]

Thanks SgtJoe and M&EM.

SgtJoe, yes, I have the two manuals, one for installation and operation, and the other for spare parts list. I have followed the installation instructions and, after removing the silicone type sealant which National put there for weatherproofing, still cannot find the two large screws in the outside asscess compartment. I am surprised that I was not able to even budge the top of the fridge.

The plywood that the fridge sits on in the back, I assume is stationary.? In one of the threads someone said they said it felt like it was stuck down at the bottom. But, I would think I could at least "rock" the top if that is the case.

On the inside, they used foam product under the top trim to seal the wiring for the refrigerator controls, which I removed and still didn't find another screw.

I can live without the ice maker, but am installing a large solar panel on top of the MH and I have cut a hole in the kitchen wall next to the freezer to install the regulator. Now, I need to remove the fridge so I can run the wires up to the roof and down to the batteries.

I really appreciate you guys efforts in trying to help me.

Larry Sorenson

[M&EM]

Larry, look carefully at the sheet metal shelf in the access hatch area. I had the same difficulty in not being able to get the unit to budge. It turned out to be 2 screws that I didn't see the first time thru that sheet metal shelf into the ply wood board underneath that was causing the holdup. Once removed , the unit easily came out.

Marty

[Dmreese1]

Here is a link to a great information and discussion on solar panels, etc. I followed the advice here and installed a 135W Kyocera panel. Ran the #4 wires down through the bedroom inner wall along side the shower corner. Put the charge controller in the Inverter compartment.

Good reading and a lot of sound info here:

Hello world from HandyBobSolar! « HandyBob's Blog

Duane

[Ragman]

Well, guys, I finally got the refrigerator out. Turned out it was just "stuck" I guess, to the bottom or sides. I searched and searched for more screws and could not find any in the sheet metal in the back nor on the inside. I finally got mad enough to grab ahold of the center with the 2 doors open and pull hard enough to "unstick" it. After that it was not a big problem to slide it out. I had a large 17" cooler that fit nicely under the fridge, slid it over into the kitchen area where I began to work on it.

I'm going to the store this morning to try to find heat resistant tape to tape the ice maker line and the heater wire together. I have just about got the wiring complete for the solar panel last night.

Duane, I really appreciate the article on solar panels. I'm installing one 68 watt and see if that will meet my needs. If not I'll add another panel.

Thanks again for all your help.

Happy Trails,
Larry

[sgtjoe]

Ragman, that heater wire is what causes the plastic water line to become brittle over time. I did not put mine back on the water line and have not had any problems with it freezing. What you could do is wire it up and when you don't need the heat wire just disconnect the inline fuse.

[Theberrys]

I replaced the plastic hose with copper to avoid the rot problem. The heater wire should be on a thermal switch so it only comes on when it's cold. Follow the wire back through the in-line fuse and see where it's attached. One end should go to a snap switch sensing the ambient temp. If so then the on off Joe is talking about is automatic as long as the snap switch is working.

Dick