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two2go · 06-29-2013, 02:51 PM

I decided to replace my somewhat troublesome OEM water service panel. I previously posted my experience replacing one of the 3-way valves because it leaked and caused the water tank to overflow while we were on city water. Then the plastic outside shower control broke and I put a couple of ugly PVC valves on stems to have a way to drain the system. The entry regulator port unit started leaking and then another leak on one of the hose to hose connections, and paint peeling off the sheet steel panel along with rust--I decided enough. So I built up a new panel using mainly CPVC and one 3-way Watts valve. I simplified the plumbing circuits and ended up with a very light unit compared with the old steel panel and all its brass fittings and valves.

Here's my old panel after I had replaced one 3-way with a PVC ball valve.

Below is the back of the new panel hooked up and ready to put in position. I made the new panel in two pieces so the main part wouldn't be so hard to maneuver into place.

And below is the final result installed. So far no leaks, but I'll carry the old panel and keep my fingers crossed until the new setup proves itself. I eliminated the outside shower (never used it) and put in the one drain port. Using a short piece of connector hose with quick-connects, I can now connect that hose to the black tank flush port and use the drain valve as a pressurized supply for flushing the tank. This also works from the pump now, and the drain port works like an spare hose bib supply. I suppose the code police would frown on having a direct connection between the house water system and the tank flush, but I only leave the connection made while actually flushing the tank, then turn off the valve and disconnect the jumper hose. I can't see any means for back contamination since all pressure and flow is toward the flush port.

I am satisfied with the result, but based on lessons learned, I might change a couple of things next time (which I hope there isn't one).
-Use an external actual hose bib instead of the ball valve and hose port for the drain.
-Pay more attention to the clearance behind the panel. I had to add a couple of right angle fittings because the hoses coming straight off the back hit the holding tank.
-Have a bit more spacing between the water heater valves. I lucked out because one valve is always closed while the other is open.

I had to get a 3/4" countersink tool to machine a taper on the inside of the CPVC MPT fittings so the hose connectors would seal without leaking.

I think the National plumbing setup is clever, but complicated. Time will tell if my design is any improvement.

whitewhale · 06-29-2013, 06:12 PM

NICE WORK on that panel. Just finished having some major work done on my 2001 Tradewinds. Same ball valve leaking and the water tank filling and drip, drip, drip out the overflow. Major work on the outside floor rusting sheet metal and the 1 by 3 inch tubular supporting the sheet metal. We could not determine why the metal and 1 by 3s was literally falling off. Wood was ok but the rest was in a bad way. Thot that the ball valve leak was involved but just a thot.
Might want to take a look at your floor.

Theberrys · 06-29-2013, 07:57 PM

Hey Bob

Real nice job. By any chance did you draw a schematic? If so I'd really like a copy.

Dick

njs42 · 06-29-2013, 09:05 PM

A+ from me. I like the white, looks, neat, sterile, and organized.

I had an original valve leak and result in over flowing the water tank as well. Once it was repaired however it has worked fine.

two2go · 06-29-2013, 09:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Theberrys

Hey Bob

Real nice job. By any chance did you draw a schematic? If so I'd really like a copy.

Dick

I'll make up a schematic and post it here soon, Dick. I had to study my original NRV design for days until it made sense. However, I don't know if all NRV coaches had a similar setup?

Belgian · 06-29-2013, 11:42 PM

there is a back flow preverter in the line from the outside connection to the flush so water cant travel back into your fresh water

Belgian · 06-29-2013, 11:45 PM

two2go · 06-30-2013, 02:37 PM

Here is a circuit schematic of my setup. As above post says, there is a check valve in the city inlet connection (also pressure reducer). There is also a check valve on the water heater outlet. These are essential for my setup. I did the drawing with the same relative positions as the valves and ports in the picture of my new panel.

Theberrys · 06-30-2013, 07:48 PM

Thanks Bob

I captured it for future use. I also saved it as a PDF and will attach a copy in case others want it.

Dick

two2go · 07-01-2013, 01:07 PM

Thanks, Dick. I hope this is helpful if just for diagnosing. One added feature is that I can use the coach pump to add water to the water tank in an emergency, since I have no gravity fill port. By setting the 3-way valve to winterize mode, connecting a length of hose to the suction port, and opening the tank fill valve, the pump will suck water from a container to the tank. I wouldn't want to fill the tank doing it. But we once were low on water in a remote park and the only water source was a hand pump, so I hauled a few bucket fulls to the coach and pumped it in.

pilotboy · 09-10-2014, 10:08 PM

Thanks for the Info I found the check valve was stuck on my watts plumbing module now everything works again.
If I had known I could have incerted a small rod or coat hanger in the inlet line to break the check valve loose you learn by on the job doing.
Ron

bigdog · 09-16-2014, 10:56 PM

From what I could determine from the maintainence and various state DMV records,I found that my rig's previous owner had spent time in Missouri,texas and Arizona. Soo,because of several of those states using salt on the roads and the hard water situation,I am having problems with the metal underbody sheets rusting out and the water service panel rusting badly also. I investigated several different materials to replace the panel and decided on a sheet of 3/8" or 1/3" plexiglass. I pulled all the valves off the old panel and then pulled it off,laid it on the plexiglass and drew all the holes and then discovered how hard it is to work with it. Soooo,got out the second sheet and did it all over again,VERY CAREFULLY,and it worked. Put it all back together and it looks pretty cool since you can see everything that's going on behind the panel. I had a water drip and was able to find it w/o pulling the panel off. It just happened that all it was,was one of the valves needed the screws tightened.