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Old 08-24-2013, 11:09 AM   #1
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Report on new slide motor

Well, we've had our first trip using the new, less expensive kitchen/living room slide motor installation. We went down to the Pacific Ocean at Long Beach, WA for the Kite Festival with a bunch of other retired firefighters.

As we were setting up, I gathered several of my old pals to witness the first field trial. I turned the key and the slide quickly and quietly extended out. Then it hit the stops, tore off the inside molding and continued to extend past the end of the rack, dumping the entire slide on the ground next to the coach!

Okay - just kidding about the last part. But you really need to be ready to shut the key off when the slide is all the way out. I heard some ominous creaking from the inside moldings by the time I released the key.

Maybe I'll think about a limit switch. It would be easy enough to do. . .
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Old 08-24-2013, 12:10 PM   #2
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Ha, ha, ha.....funny...... but too dxxn scary and realistic!! Phew!....I don't want to even think about it!! Rook
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Old 08-24-2013, 12:27 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Clark Savage Jr View Post
But you really need to be ready to shut the key off when the slide is all the way out.
Ahhh, yeah.
Thats why I do that job myself! The wife tends to try to multi-task, at all times .
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Old 08-25-2013, 09:42 PM   #4
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Maybe install a micro switch or if you want to get fancy use a conductive position sensor, to use one of those you would need to build a circuit for it to control.

Chuck
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Old 08-26-2013, 06:11 PM   #5
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Maybe install a micro switch or if you want to get fancy use a conductive position sensor, to use one of those you would need to build a circuit for it to control.

Chuck
Yesah! I think a plain and simple microswitch in series with the key switch line to the relay will do the trick. I'll fix it up with a screw adjustment so's it'll turn off just at the right time. I shouldn't need one on the "in" switch.
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Old 08-26-2013, 06:15 PM   #6
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dont forget that the microswitch contact rating must be sufficient to carry the current to the motor....so, figure out what the motor would draw (in amps) and make sure the microswitch can handle it!!!
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Old 08-26-2013, 06:22 PM   #7
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dont forget that the microswitch contact rating must be sufficient to carry the current to the motor....so, figure out what the motor would draw (in amps) and make sure the microswitch can handle it!!!
Nope. I'll put the switch in series with the low-current line to the relay. Won't be more than an amp or two. The relay is rated at 150 amps surge, 75 amps continuous. It would take a heck of a microswitch to handle that kind of power. Maybe something from Homer Simpson's powerplant?

P.S. The gearmotor draws about 33 amps - more if it is under a good load. I have a 50 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker on the supply side and the juice going to the motor runs through #6 wire.
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Old 08-26-2013, 08:40 PM   #8
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The inside flange is made of 3/4 inch plywood held to the edge of the slide frame by a bunch of self tapping screws. The plywood is wrapped in rubber roof material.
Doesn't your slide mechanism have have a pair of adjustable stops to control travel?
I wouldn't run too hard at the inner flange too many times if I were you.
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Old 08-27-2013, 11:01 AM   #9
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Doesn't your slide mechanism have have a pair of adjustable stops to control travel?
I wouldn't run too hard at the inner flange too many times if I were you.
Good advice, Mike. I don't know of any stops, but then I haven't really looked. The original gearmotor stalled out quite easily when the inside moldings touched the wall. The new motor is an altogether more powerful animal.

We just got home late yesterday afternoon and still haven't unpacked as yet. When I get to it, I will certainly look to see just what sort of stops (if any) Power Gear designed into the slide.

Thanks for the tips. I guess that's why I posted about the first field trials. Some things don't become evident until the bird flies. Just ask Boeing about the Dreamliner!
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