Community Forums

donhoward49 · 08-28-2014, 03:42 PM

So I moved up to a Tailgater.. So far I am using a flat cable out the window. I would prefer something more permanent.. Like through the floor then the body,, donnt want to go stright out the side wall because of leaks. Any ideas of how to get the cable out around the cockpit floor???
Thanks, Don

KarenS144 · 08-28-2014, 03:59 PM

We want to run a cable too so we can use our carryout and not have a cable strung though the window. We talked to Newmar about how to do that and they suggested running the cable from the cabinet above the driver (where the roof sat cable is & where the receiver goes) down the pedestal to somewhere under the coach and connect there. They said running a cable from where the "park cable" enters the coach to that cabinet would be really costly.

We're also wanting to run a similar cable to the TV in the bedroom but haven't figured out how to do that since the TV is in a slide.

Skip426 · 08-28-2014, 04:32 PM

I ran coax for an HD, dish/ receiver that required two, from the overhead cabinet , down the windshield left " A "pillar ( plastic cover comes off with four screws on my coach ) opened a hole next to the dashboard wiring harness; through the fire wall; passed the cables through, sealed the hole around the cables with RTV silicone sealant. From the front of the coach to the power cord bay , where my park cable hook up is, I followed the chassis wiring harness, did require some crawling under the coach and through the storage bays, drilled a hole to pass the cable through and sealed up around them when finished. 50' cable on a 38' chassis left about 3' of slack.
Took about 3 hrs.

For stringing coax into a slide, look at the under side of the slide, for the existing 12v, 110v and coax, you may be able to follow the current wiring through. I've worked wire through tight areas, in a fairly straight area , by attaching the wire to the tip of a extendible fishing rod.

bruceisla · 08-28-2014, 04:55 PM

Having an older coach, I took a little different approach because I don't need to have everything hidden. I have no BOMB ... just sat/receiver/DVD player/TV. I ran the coax thru the outside firewall behind the speedometer and up (there was an existing hole) and then mounted a coax connector in an unused portion of the dash panel to the left (near window). This leaves about 22" of coax to reach the portable dish (X2). The coax gets coiled and stowed above the Genset for travel. My flatscreen is on an articulated mount in the slide (driver side). When we are at the campsite I extend the slide and leave a 1/4" gap at the top. I connect a 25' coax from the dash, then alongside the driver seat, then up the side of the slide, then along the top of the slide in the gap (you can't see it), then down the side/corner of a cabinet to the receiver (which is on a side table in the slide). Then I run the HDMI back up to the TV. Most of the cabling is behind the TV. We watch from the navigator seat (turned around) and the recliner that is behind the navigator seat. It's a comfortable viewing distance to the 32" flatscreen. Everything comes back down and coiled in about 10 minutes. In total, it probably takes 20 minutes to setup the dish on a tripod, run the cables, and have the 211z receiver find the sats.

wa8yxm · 08-28-2014, 07:27 PM

Where is your receiver and is your rig front or rear engine?

Front cabinet over head,, Gasser.

Down the "A" pillar (First pillar behind windshield) and out the firewall into engine compartment.. I mounted the ground block on the brake bell crank bracket under the hood.

Rear engine..

Run cable back along the side wall, odds are fairly good there is a channel there for wires and such.. When you get to a wet spot (Kitchen or bath) where holes go down into the tank compartment.. follow the hose into that bay Install ground block where it wont' get splattered with sewage in the event of an OOPS.

Through the wall.. Get a proper bulkhead fitting and apply a bit of Dicor or other quality sealant to the back before you screw it down,, Trust me, won't leak. The key is the quality sealant

I use either Dicor or GOOP most of the time.

mikf · 08-28-2014, 07:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by donhoward49

So I moved up to a Tailgater.. So far I am using a flat cable out the window. I would prefer something more permanent.. Like through the floor then the body,, donnt want to go stright out the side wall because of leaks. Any ideas of how to get the cable out around the cockpit floor???
Thanks, Don

do a search for tailgater on this site. you will find some wire diagrams. using the cable coax is not always hard to do. I use mine, just pulled it off the back of the selector box and conect it to the receiver, hdmi for the front tv and rca cords to a RF modulater ($15 to $20) for the rear tv. but yes you have to watch the same channel that the front on. if you do not get a good signal you may have to get some high frequency connectors. change out the barell connector at the rear where it enters the rv and also if you have to add an extension to get the receiver where you want it up front.

donhoward49 · 08-28-2014, 08:16 PM

Thanks for the ideas,, Front engine.. I have the cable ran down the A pillar, Just need to get it out.. I will look at the firewall next.. I bought a connecter box to mount on the body,, I want it in front of the front wheels if possible..
Thanks again,, Don

FleetMan · 08-28-2014, 08:31 PM

I ran a new cable for my replacement rear view camera system several months ago. I ran the cable through the steering column boot at floor level at a point farthest from the steering shaft and secured it so it will not make contact with any moving parts, then sealed the incision very well. I needed to run the cable up into the instrument panel so that routing worked for me.