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Old 01-14-2017, 05:50 PM   #1
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Shocks

I have a 2004 Sea Breeze that has the original shocks. Need to replace them. Are Bilsteens the best or is there another brand thats better?
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Old 01-15-2017, 10:22 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by littleahi30 View Post
I have a 2004 Sea Breeze that has the original shocks. Need to replace them. Are Bilsteens the best or is there another brand thats better?
littleahi30
I replaced the original Bilstein shocks on my '96 Safari in 2014, (@ 134k miles), with new Bilsteins, however some RV owners prefer Koni shocks: http://www.konirv.com/
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Old 01-15-2017, 10:47 PM   #3
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I am vehicle happy with the Koni's on the front of my 99 Dolphin. Removed low mileage Bilstein's got tired of the jarring at every crack in the road and bridges. World of difference in ride. Best price is from Ultra RV Products a sponsor of iRV2.

https://www.ultrarvproducts.com/inde...&product_id=78
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Old 02-01-2017, 06:07 AM   #4
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Before you change them how many miles on the shocks. If you need to save money I have a used set I'll gave u just pay shipping they are Bilstein if not check for a company in Columbus Ohio for the best price with free shipping Bilstein or Koni. I didn't the shock on my 2004 Sea Breeze did not made ride that good so I changed them didn't change anything so I added a Sate-T-Plus cuts roll to nothing so a big truck pass is no problem also will keep you on the road if you have a blow out.
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Old 02-01-2017, 07:15 AM   #5
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Is changing shocks a DIY project?
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Old 02-01-2017, 11:37 PM   #6
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If you would have asked me 12 hours ago I would say yes, if you ask my back tonight it would probably tell you that I should have paid the $250 that the local RV shop would have charged to install them. Honestly though it is not that big of job, just awkward and maybe a tough nut or two to remove. You will need a mix of socket and box wrenches in the 3/4 - 1 inch ballpark size range. Today my challenge was the front passenger side shock, it seems like the lock nut on the threaded stud at the top had backed off a little so the threads were mangled to the point where I had to use a long universal handle to unscrew the nut all the way 1/6 of a turn at a time, never could get it to turn with just a ratchet and did not have a cheater bar that would fit in the allowed space. Even once the nut was off the threaded stud would not come out of the hole as the threads had mushroomed so it just spun in the hole. (the threaded stud had effectively turned itself into a big rivet) I was finally able to get it out with a pry bar, if that had not worked I was about at the point of grabbing an angle grinder. I still have to put the new shocks on the back as I ran out of daylight, hopefully they will go more smoothly than the front end.
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Old 02-02-2017, 03:01 AM   #7
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It was for me very easy to do and am 69 years young.
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Old 02-02-2017, 10:46 AM   #8
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Just went out (while installing new front flex brake hoses) and removed one shock - factory original on my 97 Tropi-Cal. I required 1-1/8 socket, impact gun, second 1-1/8 socket (for the top inboard nuts). No issues to remove, and they are shot. Seems every post on the Ford chassis forum and here strongly suggests Koni FSD shocks for the F53's. I will too, Good point Chuck about putting on the fronts, maybe put Bilsteins on the rear as you suggest.

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Old 02-02-2017, 12:40 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by cyclone429 View Post
Just went out (while installing new front flex brake hoses) and removed one shock - factory original on my 97 Tropi-Cal. I required 1-1/8 socket, impact gun, second 1-1/8 socket (for the top inboard nuts). No issues to remove, and they are shot. Seems every post on the Ford chassis forum and here strongly suggests Koni FSD shocks for the F53's. I will too, Good point Chuck about putting on the fronts, maybe put Bilsteins on the rear as you suggest.

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is the process similar on the workhorse chassis?
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Old 02-02-2017, 06:05 PM   #10
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is the process similar on the workhorse chassis?
On the workhorse units- I don't know, On the F53's it took me 15 minutes to remove both as I already had the front end up on axle stands and tires removed for brake work.
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