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Slide Out Trouble - Sea Breeze
Old 01-26-2010, 10:42 AM   #1
DudleyDufort is offline
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I have a 2005 National Sea Breeze. I recently had a problem with my bedroom slide when it wouldn’t open. Fortunately, I was at home instead of on the road. The next day it resumed working but I feared that it would fail again at a less opportune time. My problem is solved but I wanted to share what I learned with others that they might benefit from my experience.

Your interior slide control switches activate relays on a circuit board located elsewhere in the MH. These relays, in turn, send current to activate the slide motors. If it’s quiet, you can hear the relays when you press the slide switch. The slide control circuit board for my rig is located in the cargo bay under the front passenger seat. There are two relays for each slide out. One relay drives the slide, out. The other retracts the slide. For two slides, there are a total of four relays. Looking at the circuit board from left to right the relay configuration is; Main Close, Main Open, B/R Close, B/R Open. I’ve labeled mine to facilitate future identification in the event of a failure.

In reading posts to this forum, I found that some owners had to replace their entire board because one relay failed. In talking with the manufacturer I learned that older circuit boards were originally manufactured with the relays soldered directly onto the boards. If only one relay failed, it WAS necessary to replace the entire board. Newer control circuit boards utilize plug-in sockets so individual relays can be replaced as easily as you’d replace a light bulb. I was lucky. Mine is the new version.

If your rig still has the old style board with soldered relays, I’d suggest that you consider upgrading to the newer version and carry a couple of spare relays in your tool box. Murphy’s Law states that; a relay will fail but only at the worst possible time. Typically, late at night, in the rain, after a long day of driving.

The circuit boards are manufactured by R.V. Custom Products in Southern California. Normally they sell only to RV manufacturers and retailers but because National is out of business, they will sell direct. The circuit board part number for a two-slide rig is 119553. The cost is about 63 bucks. The individual relays cost less than $3. The relays are made by Hasco. The Hasco part number is number is CAR1C40DC12-S. The part number used by R.V. Custom Products is CBK300.

Mary at R.V. Custom Products is a delight. She’s very courteous and very helpful. Here’s their contact information;

R.V. Custom Products
1400 Anson Avenue
Santa Fe Springs, CA 90670
562-921-8353

Happy and trouble-free motoring to all.

Dudley

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Old 01-26-2010, 11:42 AM   #2
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Thsnks Dudley

I've put this info in my will need some day folder.

Dick

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Old 01-26-2010, 04:57 PM   #3
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Great info. Dudley, just took a look at mine they just plug in. Never took a hard look before.
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Old 04-04-2012, 10:28 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DudleyDufort View Post
I have a 2005 National Sea Breeze. I recently had a problem with my bedroom slide when it wouldn’t open. Fortunately, I was at home instead of on the road. The next day it resumed working but I feared that it would fail again at a less opportune time. My problem is solved but I wanted to share what I learned with others that they might benefit from my experience.

Your interior slide control switches activate relays on a circuit board located elsewhere in the MH. These relays, in turn, send current to activate the slide motors. If it’s quiet, you can hear the relays when you press the slide switch. The slide control circuit board for my rig is located in the cargo bay under the front passenger seat. There are two relays for each slide out. One relay drives the slide, out. The other retracts the slide. For two slides, there are a total of four relays. Looking at the circuit board from left to right the relay configuration is; Main Close, Main Open, B/R Close, B/R Open. I’ve labeled mine to facilitate future identification in the event of a failure.

In reading posts to this forum, I found that some owners had to replace their entire board because one relay failed. In talking with the manufacturer I learned that older circuit boards were originally manufactured with the relays soldered directly onto the boards. If only one relay failed, it WAS necessary to replace the entire board. Newer control circuit boards utilize plug-in sockets so individual relays can be replaced as easily as you’d replace a light bulb. I was lucky. Mine is the new version.

If your rig still has the old style board with soldered relays, I’d suggest that you consider upgrading to the newer version and carry a couple of spare relays in your tool box. Murphy’s Law states that; a relay will fail but only at the worst possible time. Typically, late at night, in the rain, after a long day of driving.

The circuit boards are manufactured by R.V. Custom Products in Southern California. Normally they sell only to RV manufacturers and retailers but because National is out of business, they will sell direct. The circuit board part number for a two-slide rig is 119553. The cost is about 63 bucks. The individual relays cost less than $3. The relays are made by Hasco. The Hasco part number is number is CAR1C40DC12-S. The part number used by R.V. Custom Products is CBK300.

Mary at R.V. Custom Products is a delight. She’s very courteous and very helpful. Here’s their contact information;

R.V. Custom Products
1400 Anson Avenue
Santa Fe Springs, CA 90670
562-921-8353

Happy and trouble-free motoring to all.

Dudley
Mr. Dudley,

I just got my mh home from storage. I had trouble at starting it for days. After trouble shooting and help from my friends here with the purchase of a new TCM, I got it running and drove it home. I shut off engine, set brake, lowered my jacks down, and opened my living room slide. When I went to go open the bedroom slide it moved a couple of inches and stopped. Now neither one wants to move at all. I have never had any trouble with these slides before. Thank God it's in my driveway. I did want to mention that indeed the crank battery was dead when I first went to pick it up. But after replacing the TCM the engine started right away. I am plugged into my electrical power here at the house. I will be letting it charge the battery during the night. I believe the charger is rigged to charge both, house and crank batteries. I will be checking my relays in the am to see if they are the new ones or the older circuit board. I have a 2003 National Dolphin 6355. It sure has not been fun yet getting my MH out for this new season. We are suppose to start fulltiming this fall. Thanks for your input and helpfulness. Pat
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Old 04-05-2012, 07:40 AM   #5
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Dudley, As other said, great information to save thanks.

LilGreek.. Did you turn off the engine, then lower jacks and operate slides before plugging in to house current? If I read that correct you pulled a lot of power from the batteries.. Just a thought
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Old 04-05-2012, 09:02 PM   #6
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Thanks for your thought Don. I was able to go and check out my circuit board today. I do have the newer model that Dudley was talking about. I checked and wiggled and pulled out the power plug going into the slide circuit, and blew on it. I didnt see anything out of the norm. I went in side just to give it a try and whammo! It worked just great! I did get some great info here and now know where these things are. I then proceded to connect my new hard wire EMS unit. That went well, without any problems. I am so grateful to be able to come here and find or get help to problems. Things are looking up! Hope to see ya on the road my friend. Take care and God Bless!
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Old 04-05-2012, 09:47 PM   #7
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Do I have the only National coach that requires the motor to be running in order to use the jacks or the slides? I guess it helps with the electrical issues, but it sure is a nuisance sitting with the engine running until you are level and slides are out.
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Old 04-06-2012, 04:44 AM   #8
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Do I have the only National coach that requires the motor to be running in order to use the jacks or the slides? I guess it helps with the electrical issues, but it sure is a nuisance sitting with the engine running until you are level and slides are out.
No, my Islander manual says to run engine while leveling and running slide out, I can see the reasoning for it, big electrical draw.
My one and only slide is HWR and I don't even now if it has a circuit board. I do know that in my battery bay the electrical distribution center is made by RV custom products of Santa Fe Springs, Ca and it has a relay on it and it is soldered on, I know it is a older board, wonder if I should up date.
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Old 04-06-2012, 05:53 AM   #9
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Dudley and other posters: I did not see the mfr of your slide-outs.

We have Power Gear. Anything I need to know? Thanks.
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Old 04-06-2012, 08:38 AM   #10
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Dudley and other posters: I did not see the mfr of your slide-outs.

We have Power Gear. Anything I need to know? Thanks.

Scooter, I'm not sure how to answer your question. My original post dealt with the electrical side of things, not the mechanical. I believe my drive mechanism is "Power Gear" but my problem was a defective relay and that was the experience I was attempting to share.

I DID have an instance where a weld broke on the LR slide drive gear. That was a fairly simple matter of taking the shaft/gear assembly to my favorite welder for repair. I must say that I wasn't very impressed with the OEM welding. The "bead" between ring gear and drive shaft was sparse. The re-weld is now much more robust.

Dudley
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Old 04-06-2012, 08:44 AM   #11
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I know the motor needs to run, or key On, to operate jacks.. I believe the slides also (its been a long winter since i used them) due to current draw. We like to hook up utilities before extending slides because of less head aches, literally. Then i turn the ignition key to operate the jacks..

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