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Old 09-28-2014, 09:43 PM   #1
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Slide out won't work 2005 National Sea Breeze A321 LX

For the last 2-3 weeks we have been loading lotsa stuff onto our 2005 National Sea Breeze. It was plugged in to 50 amp service and we ran ac and opened and closed both slides at least half a dozen times. We took possession of the motor home today, drove 30 miles to a KOA, plugged it in... lounge slide worked fine, the bedroom slide would not extend. The motor was running, but the bed not moving??? We have a 30 amp hookup here. Almost makes me think that it slipped off its track. Any thoughts? Anything to try?
Thanks...
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Old 09-28-2014, 10:00 PM   #2
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First we need a little background information like Make, Model, and Year etc.
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Old 09-29-2014, 08:01 AM   #3
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more info/malfunctioning

Thanks, I was thinking (hoping) this might be a generic issue.
This motor home is 2005 National Sea Breeze A321 LX.
It is a Workhouse Chassis.
Thanks for any ideas.
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Old 09-29-2014, 08:18 AM   #4
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If we don't get some get some answers here we can always move it back to Class A. They are somewhat all the same by manufacture so we'll move it to National for now and see what happens.
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Old 09-29-2014, 07:25 PM   #5
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Bedroom slides have a weak link in the NRV product line for 2005. You need to gain access under the mattress, remove the false bottom exposing the gear assembly. It's possible just a shear pin has failed. It's possible the entire gear assembly has failed, expensive repair. The links are parts suppliers, Al-KO purchased the RBW business in years past.

Good Luck

National

https://myrvpartsplacestore.3dcartst...m/RBW_c_8.html

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Old 09-29-2014, 07:53 PM   #6
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I just repaired my gear assm on our 05 Dolphin, possibly the same. As mentioned, there is a roll pin in 2 of the gears. After no problems for years, last spring the pin in the brass gear broke a couple of times and the pin in the other gear came out during a 8 week trip. When home, I replaced both pins with grade 8 1/4 " bolts. I also saw brass filings and a tooth or 2 broken off the brass gear. Also the brass bushing supporting the end of the worm gear, that drives the brass gear, was badly worn and falling out in pieces. Search and you will find others that had this problem and had instructions on repairing it. As they had done, I replaced the brass gear with a steal one(Amazon.com at $45 and required drilling to shaft size of 5/8") and heavier bushing installed (3/4" O.D and 5/8" I.D X 1/2" L and drilling Gear frame bushing hole to fit the larger 3/4" bushing size. Cost of parts about $55. Other paid a machine shop to do the drilling mod's. Also some welding is required as gear frame has to be split apart by grinding off weld spots, then welder together later.
See: http://www.irv2.com/forums/f105/bras...ed-196343.html
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Old 09-30-2014, 08:50 PM   #7
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The symptoms sound like a broken shear pin. You most likely have the right-angle drive using a bronze worm driven gear that was too soft and brittle for the job. If your problem is as simple as replacing the pin, do look closely at that gear to see if any teeth are missing or severely worn down. There are two other potential problem areas that need to be checked. If the slide box itself is not perfectly aligned, it puts too much drag on the drive which can cause failures. Also, the slide box must move as freely as possible. There may be rollers or hard plastic glide pads that support the box on the bottom sides. Make sure there is no binding. Some have said that waxing the underside of the slide is key to making their slides move easier. Do a search on this forum for bedroom slide and you will find lots of info. (Former Dolphin owner)
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Old 10-06-2014, 04:25 PM   #8
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Slide out won't work

Sorry for the tardy response, computer in for repair.
Thanks for the diagnostics and suggestions... and links. You were spot on. Shear pin was replaced last Wednesday. We hung around the campground until Friday re-arranging stuff, and then moved to a local winery when the ABQ Balloon Fiesta commandeered all the local campgrounds. We spent Friday and Saturday fine tuning our organizing. Preparing to leave Sunday morning... the bedroom slide would not move Roving RV Repair man coming again tomorrow.

We got two outs and one in from that pin... and not even 30 miles on our new (2005) Sea Breeze.
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Old 10-06-2014, 08:52 PM   #9
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I wish I had more specific info, however the original pin in a tapered spiral. Possibly the tech has a better pin, if it keeps breaking look for other causes, lubing the skid plates mounted at the outside wall, metal rails under the bed. It helps to keep only light items under the bed. Did you check-out the roll pins at the RV parts place store web site?

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Old 10-07-2014, 11:15 AM   #10
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The only pins strong enough are the coiled extra-strength spring pins. They are available at McMaster-Carr

Scroll around until you locate the correct size. Don't bother with standard spring pins - they won't last. I keep several bags of different sizes in our Tropi-Cal. Handing them out to other National owners is a good way to meet new friends at a camp.
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Old 10-07-2014, 09:51 PM   #11
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Clark Savage is exactly correct, most pins sold are just one roll and so are hollow and not strong enough. The grade 8 1/4" bolt will work, but I had to modify it by grinding the bolt's head and the nut down a bit so it didn't rub on anything when rotating. However this kind of job and the other repairs I did to the gear box required removing it from the RV and repairing and testing on a shop bench. Our Dolphin's rear slide is on rollers and I found nothing resisting it's movement.
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Old 10-09-2014, 09:22 PM   #12
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Thanks to both of you. I have ordered the extra strength spring pins. As we know, shear pins have their purpose. I don't want to damage the motor, but I don't want to keep dealing with the issue. At the present the slide is working but seems a little uneven... trepidation each time we operate it.
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Old 10-10-2014, 10:14 AM   #13
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Kablooie .........

Although the spring pins are referred to as shear pins, that is not their purpose in this case. They are used as a drive pin and not intended to snap. Power Gear realized their design error and put out a modification using a shaft connector using a Woodruff key.

On my living room slide, the problem went deeper than the drive pins. The housing for the gear is cast from a fairly weak alloy - I've always referred to it as "pot metal" although it's likely something different. The ends of the gear shafts run in cast holes in the housing. To protect the weak alloy, they used pressed-in sleeves between the shaft and the hole.

The sideways pressure of the ends of the gear shafts eventually deformed the cast bosses in the housing and the gear shafts lost alignment. It was making some noise at that point. One day soon after, as I was running the slide in, it went, "SNAP" and the slide stopped. The motor wouldn't turn, either. On disassembly, there were two gears which had lost teeth. the loose teeth jammed in the next notch and the whole gear train came apart on the ends of the shafts.

I couldn't buy repair parts - not even the whole gearbox. A new gearmotor assembly was a thousand bucks. So, I made my own using a tarp motor for a dump truck.

What I'm saying is if you replace the drive pin and your slide still sounds funny, better check further before you get stranded someplace with a slide that won't come in. The emergency manual retract mechanism may not work if the gearbox is bound up. You would need to remove the gearmotor assembly to retract the slide and then use something like a ratchet strap to hold it in while you drive home.
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Old 10-14-2014, 08:38 PM   #14
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Thank you Clark... good, succinct summary. And you're right. I need to address this before I am stranded.
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