Water Pump Switch

[coulter6]

Ever since I bought my used 2005 Sea Breeze 8321LX a year ago, the water pump switch in the utility bin didn't work. While I was installing new tank sensors, I played around with the pump switch.

There are 3 terminals on the switch.

The wiring seen above is how it was wired when I took off the panel. In this configuration, the water pumps switches in the coach (Panel & bathroom) operate the pump normally. The utility bin switch dose not function.

If I move the left wire (white) to the other open terminal on the right, the bin pump switch operates, but the switches in the coach do not.

What is the correct way to configure the switch so all 3 switches function properly?

[Theberrys]

You'll need a meter for this. Remove both wires and check continuity on the resistance or Ohm scale. Two will be shorted and the other one will be opened. This is the normally open position. Push the switch and two will be shorted and the other one will be opened this is the normally opened position. The one that is involved in both tests is the common. Put the red wires on the common terminal and the white wires on the Normally Opened terminal. My guess is your switch will not pass the second test because it's bad. All you can do is replace the switch in that case. If it does pass both tests and still doesn't work, follow the white wires back to a small (about 3" X 3") box and that is the problem you'll have to replace it. This is assuming your switch is momentary action; that is "Spring Loaded" and always returns to the same position when you’re not pressing it.

The schematic looks like this. The terminals are usually labeled NO (Normally Opened), NC (Normally Closed), C (Common).

Dick

[WSRG]

The key is, as Dick mentioned, the switch MUST be momentary, that is, spring loaded. If it isn't, it will "fool" the little 3X3 control box and prevent the other switches in the coach from working.

Bill

[powerboatr]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Theberrys You'll need a meter for this. Remove both wires and check continuity on the resistance or Ohm scale. Two will be shorted and the other one will be opened. This is the normally open position. Push the switch and two will be shorted and the other one will be opened this is the normally opened position. The one that is involved in both tests is the common. Put the red wires on the common terminal and the white wires on the Normally Opened terminal. My guess is your switch will not pass the second test because it's bad. All you can do is replace the switch in that case. If it does pass both tests and still doesn't work, follow the white wires back to a small (about 3" X 3") box and that is the problem you'll have to replace it. This is assuming your switch is momentary action; that is "Spring Loaded" and always returns to the same position when you’re not pressing it. The schematic looks like this. The terminals are usually labeled NO (Normally Opened), NC (Normally Closed), C (Common). Dick

THANK you for a great easy explanation, gold star is in order

i have been putting together my items to add a water pump switch and your explanation made my light bulb go brighter

[coulter6]

Follow up:

It was a bad switch. Got a new one and it works fine.

Thanks for all your help, especially Dick.