Water service manifold cover removal

[rkscott]

Am I going to experience difficulty removing the entrance plate/manifold cover as I expect I have a loose plastic coupler behind this cover as I'm having difficulty tightening the water hose from an outside source to the tank fill/city water serve selector valve. We have a 2000 National Tradewinds 7373 Class A motorhome. Has anyone out there experienced this problem??
Keith

[Fred and Bonnie]

Keith, our '05's panel is metal, so not sure what material yours is. I had to drill out two screws in the removal process. The city water inlet is plastic and developed a leak behind the panel. I found constantly hooking/unkooking the hose at the inlet is a real pain. I now use a short hose section that extends down thru the compartment floor.

Fred

[sgtjoe]

You shouldn't have any problems in doing that, Keep in mind that the panel with all the attached hoses and levers will only drop down enough for you to get in and work on the stuff connected on the back or just inside. I was able to replace the pump and later the city water connection just by removing the screws holding the plate in place.

[rkscott]

Thank you for your responses with respect to the problems previously noted. Would appear that while tightening the water inlet hose provided from the city water, that when I went to remove the hose, the plastic nut on the back side of the panel loosened as I may have inadvertently turned the fitting rather than the knurled nut to fasten the city water supply line.

Are you ready for another stupid question. During the winterization process, when I draw antifreeze from an external source and pump it through all of the house lines ie. hot and cold showers and sinks, etc, do I then have to direct the same antifreeze back through the "tank fill" line and invariably inject RV antifreeze into the fresh water tank. Would appreciate your insights. A number of good suggestions were provided from our previous dumb question. Thanks again.

Keith

[sgtjoe]

Keith, keep in mind there are no"dumb" questions, we've all been there at one time or another. Does your Water Manifold cover look like this



You will run a hose from the antifreeze bottle screwed on to the hose fitting under the white cap at the upper right of your city line. Mine, as you can see gives written instructions on winterizing and draining. You should also have a waterheater by-pass valve to the left of the two levers. Mine is a 2001, shouldn;t be that much of a difference. With this setup all you do is turn on the pump and it goes from there through all the lines, by passing the tank. Hope this helps. Don't forget to follow directions on the bottle and remember to pour some down the drains to winterize them. Anything else, holler. Also drain waterheater.
Do you have an icemaker????
Joe

[garym114]

Drain hot water tank.
Water heater bypass valve to bypass position.
Move valve to 'inlet to pump' position.
I use a 5 gallon bucket. Pour at least 2 gallons of pink stuff in bucket.
Connect hose to pump fitting just above valve and put hose in bucket.
At each water fitting inside run until water is pink, hot and cold.
Don't forget outside shower. Pour a couple of cups down each drain inside to fill p-traps.

[rkscott]

Hi Joe - appreciate the response - however, after doing as you instructed, do I then have to move the handle from inlet to pump to inlet to tank, and circulate RV antifreeze through the fresh water line from the "tank to pump" or can I assume it is empty. Otherwise I'll be circulating antifreeze into the fresh water tank. Our panel appears to be identical to your picture.

Another question for you - when you store for the winter, do you dump your air and let the motorhome rest on the frame or do you set it on its levelling pods and leave it that way for the winter months. Thanks for your help.

Keith
2000 National Tradewinds 7373

[rkscott]

Oops - sorry - we do not have an icemaker.

[sgtjoe]

Let's start from the top on winterizing.
1. Drain the fresh water tank. There is a lever you will need to find that will drain the tank. Look in your front bay door on the passenger side, there should be a panel held by screws or velcro, the drain lever is behind it.
2. remove the hotwater tank plug so it can drain.
3. With the pump off open all your faucets, then open the bay door and hang the outside shower sprayer out and open both hot and cold faucets, this will drain all your water lines. Let it sit for awhile until there is no more water coming out of the shower sprayer.
4. close all the faucets.
5. Follow the instructions on your water manifold panel for lever positions.
6. hook up the hose to the male fitting on the inlet on the far upper right
7. put the other end of the hose in the antifreeze, I use the bottles the antifreeze comes in, usually use 3 gals.
8. turn on the pump and wait until the pump sucks enough antifreeze and shuts off.
9. go inside and open faucets in the order that the antifreeze bottle instructions say, when you get a solid pink at the faucet shut it off and move to the next one. Don't forget the toilet and the showers
10. make sure you change out bottles, before it starts sucking air.
11. After all faucets have been winterized pour some antifeeze down the drains to winterize the P-traps.
12. That's it, you're done, don't pump the antifreeze to your fresh water holding tank.

As far as the air and jacks, perhaps someone else can assist on this. Our MH doesn't get stored for the Winter, we're snowbirds.

Now if you're not comfortable with winterizing her for the first time you can do what I did. Take it in and have it done, but tell them you are going to watch them do it cause you want to learn how for next year. I did this with ours the first time because it had an icemaker.
If you have a washer, you'll need to find out what to do to it. I don't have one.

[Warden]

I was informed not to leave the Leveling Jacks down. I left mine on the tires with wood under each tire and tires to the recommended pressure, was fine when we hit the road again in March...... I was going to let the frame sit on wood and the tires off the ground....but also was advised that was not necessary as well..... I am sure there will be many more suggestions........ this site is the best for finding out how to do things, I spend time here just reading and reading and learning...... especially from the Seasoned RV's, which have GREAT advise.

Quote:

Originally Posted by rkscott Hi Joe - appreciate the response - however, after doing as you instructed, do I then have to move the handle from inlet to pump to inlet to tank, and circulate RV antifreeze through the fresh water line from the "tank to pump" or can I assume it is empty. Otherwise I'll be circulating antifreeze into the fresh water tank. Our panel appears to be identical to your picture. Another question for you - when you store for the winter, do you dump your air and let the motorhome rest on the frame or do you set it on its levelling pods and leave it that way for the winter months. Thanks for your help. Keith 2000 National Tradewinds 7373

[rkscott]

Hi Warden - appreciate your advice - however once putting the tires on wooden platforms, did you in fact dump the air or not? Thanks.

[rkscott]

To Joe and Angie - hahaha, we hope to also be snowbirds in the not too distant future but in order to enjoy our unit some of still have to work. Nice to talk to you.

Keith and Rita
Thunder Bay, Ontario Canada

[Warden]

No, put the tires at their recommended pressure.......... do not deflate the tires.......

Quote:

Originally Posted by rkscott Hi Warden - appreciate your advice - however once putting the tires on wooden platforms, did you in fact dump the air or not? Thanks.

[rkscott]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Warden No, put the tires at their recommended pressure.......... do not deflate the tires.......

Hi Tom - thanks, that helps me alot.
Keith