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Old 05-04-2014, 06:55 PM   #1
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35 QBA door fix. Maybe ?

We purchased our 2013 35 QBA last July. Since we bought it the entry door has been a problem. About 1 out of 4 tries you have to slam it to get it to close so the deadbolt would lock. Many times you would have to push it hard from the inside to get it to open. It recently started to squeak on rough roads. Last September at the TRVN Pine Mountain Rally the sun was shining right on the door and it would not open. The wife pushed from the inside and I pulled from the outside to get it open. I found a hex head screw at the top corner of the door was dragging on the door frame. I took that screw out ant replaced it with a pan head phillips screw. The door didn't jamb any more but the rest of the problems persisted.

A couple of weeks ago I decided to closely examine the door to see if I could see what was causing the squeak. I noticed that the bottom rubber molding or weather stripping was deformed and squeezes tightly in the door frame when the door was shut. The molding is about 1/2 thick and the space at the bottom of the door is only about 1/4 inch. I used a small flat blade screw driver and carefully removed the molding. I closed and opened the door several times and noticed a big difference in how easy the door opened and closed. No more slamming. Since I didn't want to leave the molding off I looked to see if I could cut it down a little to make it fit better. While looking at it I saw that I could flip over 180 degrees and put it back in the track. What that did was put the fatter part up under the door where it would contact the raised part of the threshold when closed but does not drag or bind the door when closing.

We just came back from a weeks long trip. No more slamming the door. No more pushing hard to open and best of all no more squeak. I have read all kinds of stories about these doors and the same ones on the 36LAs. I was ready to seek help from the dealer or Tiffin but I think that my problem and maybe other owners problems could be that bottom rubber binds the door. All along I thought I had that dreaded door latch problem.

If your door is giving you a problem you might want to try the same thing. It cost nothing and you can put it back just like it was if it doesn't help.
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Old 05-04-2014, 07:18 PM   #2
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Another thing to do is to look at the top of the door. There is a plastic block attached to the door that contacts the door header. I presume it is there to stabilize the door when closed to keep it from squeaking and vibrating. The one on my coach really forced the door down and required you to slam it shut and tug hard to open. I took a piece of 2X4 wood and a hammer to drive the metal door jamb header up at the point of contact with this plastic block. Small taps and then try it. After about 3 taps the door opening and closing was 99.9% better. I did readjust the latch bolt again to complete the repair.
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Old 05-05-2014, 04:04 PM   #3
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I have nothing on my door like you described. Neither on the top of the door or on the frame. It sounds like your door was binding the same as mine but mine was from the rubber at the bottom. I did not have to adjust the latch.
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