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Old 11-05-2017, 02:36 PM   #1
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Best wax?

What is the best wax to use on our allegro 31SA
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Old 11-05-2017, 02:50 PM   #2
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I like Dry Wash N Guard. Been using it since about 2004 on everything.
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Old 11-05-2017, 02:59 PM   #3
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I use Wash Wax ALL. FAA approved for airplanes and works great on RVs.
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Old 11-05-2017, 08:10 PM   #4
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Learned from the Russians in the Keys charging $15 a foot washing with distilled water first.
They use Meguiar's M6332 Flagship Premium Marine Wax with
Flex XC3401VRG Positive-Drive Rotary-Orbital Polisher
With Chemical Guys BUFX_305_6 Black Optics Microfiber Black Polishing Pad

Took an hour or so of studying the procedure to learn, but it works very well.Wax on wax off, they applied about 6 sq feet of polisher. Then another 6 square feet of polisher. Stop put polisher down in shade, wipe off first 6 sq ft of polish, stop. Pick up polisher do another 6 sq ft. Stop, put down polisher in the shade. wipe off the 2nd 6 sq ft.

Repeat, your mileage may vary. It takes forever, but that is a polished finish.

The roof is slippery enough, ugg, I'm thinking coat with a product that is much more sticky and white. That is a long way to fall.
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Old 11-05-2017, 09:10 PM   #5
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Thanks for all the suggestions
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Old 11-06-2017, 07:16 AM   #6
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Actually Tiffin recommends not waxing, just clean using baby soap. Hard scrubbing can do damage to clear coat and gel coat. That's what one of the Tiffin sales managers stated at a seminar on cleaning at a rally I went to. Dave
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Old 11-06-2017, 08:35 AM   #7
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Meguires, meguires that's it. Wax everything no matter what the RV is made of. Wonder a manufacturer would say... Don't wax. I would not listen to him. My coach is painted but I use meguires #50, wax/cleaner and gold carnival wax on my toad. Enjoy your rv especially after you have cost barred it and waxed it. Have fun rvn
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Old 11-06-2017, 05:04 PM   #8
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RV Polish

Use Nu Finish after a good wash. Really shines and lasts! Use Nu Finish twice a year. Meguires wash & wax spray in between. Use same on toad.
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Old 11-06-2017, 06:03 PM   #9
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+1 for Nu Finish. Its a polymer and will last a year. I've used it for years on all my vehicles.
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Old 11-06-2017, 06:26 PM   #10
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I have used REJEX polymer on cars and Coach after normal washing. Apply in circular motion with a pad in the shade and by the time you get to the last section, you can start at the beginning and remove with a microfiber cloth. Even use on windows. Water will bead for 6 months in Florida weather.
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Old 11-06-2017, 08:10 PM   #11
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Here is a recent thread with plenty to consider on full coach exterior detailing started by rotts4u and I jumped in as well, both coincidently Tiffins. Probably more than you care to think about or take on....... In short, there is no one best wax or sealant for an RV or any other vehicle.......

Full detail project for motorhome with pics

I try to add some more thoughts tomorrow, just not into another coach detailing pontification tonight.

I will add one note now since it was brought up above about the whole Mary Moppins - Tiffin & Newmar, thing to use baby shampoo with vinegar to wash an RV - would you wash a baby's hair with car wash soap? - no; because that's not what it is made for. Good car wash soap has surfectants to lift dirt, and lubricants, both to greatly minimize scratching of the surface by grit as you wash. Use the proper product.......
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Old 11-06-2017, 08:24 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbiker View Post
Use Nu Finish after a good wash. Really shines and lasts! Use Nu Finish twice a year. Meguires wash & wax spray in between. Use same on toad.

The easiest and most cost effective way to go, Meguires on the bikes....

DTW
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Old 11-07-2017, 06:35 AM   #13
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I'm going to do my best to not pontificate....... So here it goes; this is a combination of a couple posts from another forum, so it may jump around a bit.

Car detailing is a passion for me, it's not work. No one washes my vehicles but me; not going to happen (for a long time I hope). The time and effort I put into detailing my cars and RV is significant and thinking someone is going to jump into serious detailing for the first time with a RV is probably unrealistic. So take what you want from this, and ignore everything else if you want.

Given all that, unless you are going to jump into caring for your RV (or any car) finish with a commitment to a lot time and effort, just about any wax, sealant, etc. is going to provide a bit of shine and protection. The sad reality is, many if not most car guys don't really have good paint. Yes, they keep them clean, but the paint finish is full of imperfections. Just the way it is........ In the end, it's what meets your expectations and makes you happy! I'm just trying to provide some helpful direction.

People like to "worry" about what "wax" to use on their vehicle, and I'll start there. But the reality is, how you wash and dry your vehicle is probably more important to how the finish actually looks; I'll touch on that too.

And then there is polishing, which is what really makes a great finish. Thats an entirely differnet subject which I really won't get into here.

Use a polymer sealant, not a wax. A sealant generally will last longer than a wax, and for an RV (and most cars) is perfectly adequate. Whether it's from Griot's Garage, Mothers, Magures, etc.; the specific product you use is probably not going to make much of a noticeable difference unless you want to get very serous about your paint.

Magures 21 sealant has filling properties that will help hide / minimize the appearance of minor micro scratches and swirls, but be aware that filling properties are not permanent, and will evaporate or be washed out over some period of time. I have never used it, but it does get a lot of positive reviews.

Note, a lot of detailers and car dealerships use heavy glazes to hide paint imperfections. Unfortunately, the filling is usually gone when you wash it the next time.

I have no experience with Rejex, but a lot of RVers like it. However, if you don't follow thier very specific instructions, I'm not sure what that you will see the promised results. Also, if you read thier instructions, it says it will last UP to 12 months, but they recommend every 6 months for best results; in that regard it's really not any different than any other sealant.

There are also "cleaner" waxes / sealants which also have a very low cut polish property, but you are not going to get much paint correction (particularly if applying by hand)........ Not going to get into polishing here as I noted.

If you change wax / sealants, I strongly suggest you "strip" your paint of the prior finish. Washing with dawn dish soap is a common, and easy method. There are some specialty products available as well, or polishing will usually do it too; some will still use a paint prep after polishing, and some waxes have specifiec paint prep products.

Micro scratches and most swirl marks are normally done when cleaning and drying a vehicle, and drivng grit into the paint, or from the fibers in towels, mitts, or brushes. The visibility can be very light / light angle dependent, and on Rvs, they are very typically vertical from washing / drying in an up / down manner. Holograms are "worst case" swirls, usually done by by improper use of a "buffer" (usually a high speed rotary) and / or the wrong kind of pad. Also often seen on a dark car after a $20 wash and buff special at the corner car wash.

The reality is, most folks don't notice most micro scratches and swirl marks in paint, they just think it's "normal", as and if someone is Ok with that, that's fine too. To get them out requires polishing, while as I noted some finishes have a glaze / filling property that will help hide them (temporarily).

Washing with baby shampoo and vinegar - why (other than its something Mary Moppings came up with)? Would you wash a baby's hair with car wash soap? Car wash soaps have surfectants to help lift dirt, and lubricants to minimize micro scratches and swirls created when washing. Use a good car wash soap...... Washing techniques are another topic, but I'll note that I probably use 8 buckets of clean, fresh soapy wash water to do my small coach, in addition to a soap gun.

When I wash a vehicle, I apply a detailing spray to the wet vehicle as I dry each section, as it lubricates your towel helping to minimize any micro scratching / swirls, and does add a bit more pop to the finish.

I will end by saying, very high quality wash mitts and micro fiber towels are a must. Wash mitts must be rinced out thougouly and often (like after every bay door, and probably every 4-5 linear feet above the belt line) when washing to remove grit. I'm not a fan of any kind of brush, even high quality (and $$) boars hair, as people tend to use too much force (like they are scrubbing the floor) and you have to work vertically when you should work horizontally (washing and drying) as any vertical marring of the paint is much more noticeable than horizontal. If you use an extension pole drying, you have virtually no choice but to work vertically, so only use a pole for the highest sections and be very careful, don't press hard when drying (ever!).

As for what I use on my coach (which is in the attached post above):

I used Griot's Garage car shampoo (I also regularly use Adams)
Polished with Griot's Complete Compound using a Flex Eccentric machine, and an orange pad. Their Complete Polish starts as a less aggressive cut (which I will be adding to my supplies). Both Complete Compound and Polish do not require a second or third cut to get a final finish. You could always use a finish cut after either if you want to get (more) carried away.

Then finished with Griot's Polywax sealant. I apply with a soft pad on the Flex, but there is really no need to use a machine to apply a wax or sealant; it just speeds up the application on a large vehicle. I do it by hand on my other vehicles.

I use either Griot's Speed Shine, Griot's new Best of Show Detailer, or Adams Detail spray to apply to the wet surface as I dry all my vehicles. Speed Shine has long been a staple of my detailing supplies, but I actually prefer Adams; Just got Griot's new Best of Show Detailer which I just used on the RV, and it seems as good as Adams.

I was so pleasantly surprised with Complete Compound and Polywax after I first used them on the RV, I have been using them on my Jeep as well.

On my cars in the recent past, I have been using Adams Polishes, Swissvax wax ($$) and now use Adams Americana wax on our BMW.

Side notes: Another forum member (rotts4 you in the attached thread) recently used Griot's new Boss polishes doing a full exterior detail similar to what I outlined in my attached post, and was very happy with his results. I would stay away from Griot's Best of Show wax, and their "Machine Polish 1-2-3" products, as they are not easy to use, and other newer products provide as good if not better results.

In closing, this is probably way more than most folks care to consider. It's a lot of work, and even a regular wash takes about 5 or so man hours on our little gasser. Applying a wax / sealant isn't that hard, but to do it right takes some time. Polishing is a lot of effort, requires at least a random orbital machine, and is something many people are simply afraid to do.

I hope this is helpful. It's probably overload, and yes I really enjoy doing this in my RV and cars. But, if it's something you just consider "work" that you want to get done in a most expedient manner, and you are happy with what you have for your results, good for you too. Take what you want from this, or ignore it all together.

Regards
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Old 11-07-2017, 09:46 AM   #14
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Sorry but old age and arthritis = I'll pay someone and have it done once a year or as needed. Dave
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