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Old 06-04-2011, 05:27 AM   #1
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Bolts on slide outs

I have a 2005 Tiffin Allegro with 2 slides. I broke a bolt that holds the square tubing on the motors. Is that just a regular 1/4 20 bolt, or is it a shear bolt?
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Old 06-04-2011, 12:12 PM   #2
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It's a regular bolt. Be sure to replace it with at least a grade 5 bolt, grade 8 is even better. Ideally the non-threaded shank portion of the bolt should be long enough to span the width of the square tubing for maximum strength. You can always cut off the extra threads if they stick out too far.
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Old 06-04-2011, 07:11 PM   #3
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Look at the hole in the tubing to see if it egg shaped and the edges of the hole are sharp, this is what usually cuts the bolt. You can stop this by removing the tubing, weld a small piece of heavier metal to the sides with holes then redrill the holes. No more breaking bolts.
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Old 06-04-2011, 07:23 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denbob4369 View Post
I have a 2005 Tiffin Allegro with 2 slides. I broke a bolt that holds the square tubing on the motors. Is that just a regular 1/4 20 bolt, or is it a shear bolt?
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The bolt and nut Power Gear uses is Grade 8 hardened. The bolt has a longer unthreaded length to the shank than most standard Grade 8 bolts have. The unthreaded portion of the shank is slightly longer than the thickness of the drive shaft. The nut is also special because it has a recessed lip that goes against the shaft to accommodate the longer unthreaded shank.

You can go to Lowe's and get a 1/4-20 X 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" Grade 8 bolt and nut. Buy several spares because they won't last as long as the special bolts used by Power Gear.

Tiffin has the Power Gear bolts and nuts in stock. I picked up several when we were there last fall. I used to keep replacing the bolts with standard Grade 8 bolts from Lowe's, but the special ones from Power Gear seem to last a lot longer. I'm sure you can get them directly from Power Gear as well.
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Old 06-04-2011, 09:24 PM   #5
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FWIW,
When the bolt sheared on my 2005 AB, the holes were elongated through the tubing and shaft. After I realigned them, I drilled it out to 5/16" and used a Grade 8 5/16" bolt; one long enough to ensure an unthreaded shaft where it may shear. I never had another bit of trouble after five years.
Good luck.
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Old 06-05-2011, 11:40 AM   #6
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FWIW,
When the bolt sheared on my 2005 AB, the holes were elongated through the tubing and shaft. After I realigned them, I drilled it out to 5/16" and used a Grade 8 5/16" bolt; one long enough to ensure an unthreaded shaft where it may shear. I never had another bit of trouble after five years.
Good luck.
Chuck
I have always been tempted to drill out the hole for a 5/16" bolt, but I was afraid of weakening the end of the shaft on the motor 'cause new motors are pretty spendy. Obviously, drilling out the holes doesn't seem to be a problem since yours has held up for 5 years now.

Ours bolts have held up well since I got the special Power Gear bolts last fall; but if one lets go again, I'm going to consider drilling out the holes. The trick will be to find some 5/16" bolts with a long enough unthreaded shank. Keeping the threaded portion out of the area where it can be sheared seems to be the key to longevity.
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Old 06-06-2011, 05:43 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by paz View Post
I have always been tempted to drill out the hole for a 5/16" bolt, but I was afraid of weakening the end of the shaft on the motor 'cause new motors are pretty spendy. Obviously, drilling out the holes doesn't seem to be a problem since yours has held up for 5 years now.

Ours bolts have held up well since I got the special Power Gear bolts last fall; but if one lets go again, I'm going to consider drilling out the holes. The trick will be to find some 5/16" bolts with a long enough unthreaded shank. Keeping the threaded portion out of the area where it can be sheared seems to be the key to longevity.
That does sound like a good idea, I did cut off & redrill the square tubing, but only to 1/4 as I too was worried that 5/16 would be too much for the motor ends. Thanks to all for the great input.
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Old 06-06-2011, 06:42 AM   #8
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Why not switch to a Grade 8 Shoulder bolt? Available at any Fastenal fastener branch. The "shoulder or barrel length comes in 1/8" increments with a smaller threaded end. The head is always an Allen Wrench head.
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Old 06-06-2011, 07:10 AM   #9
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Why not switch to a Grade 8 Shoulder bolt? Available at any Fastenal fastener branch. The "shoulder or barrel length comes in 1/8" increments with a smaller threaded end. The head is always an Allen Wrench head.
Because the shoulder will prevent you from torquing the bolt down tight on the drive shaft. The special Power Gear nut has a skirt that extends beyond the threads to bear down on the drive shaft.

BTW, Power Gear T.I.P. Sheet below shows special bolts, nuts (with skirt) and torque specs.

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Old 06-06-2011, 10:51 AM   #10
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It is a Grade 8 bolt, 1/4 inch, get one long enough that the solid part of the bolt extends through the squar bar and use washers to tighten it down.. One person suggests using lock washers (I will try that next replacement) I got 1 3/4 inch last time I bought.

NOTE: I have been using 1 1/4 inch, which means the bar cuts into the threads and they have been popping like toothpicks. Hence the recommendation for a longer bolt.

Time will tell if that's a good idea.

I buy 'em by the dozen at a local screw loose place.. That is a store who's names in "Fastener" or "Fasteners." Originally C&J Fastners, it's not Tradsman Fastener.

(I mean this store specialises in loose screws, nuts and bolts, and the tools to tighten them down and install them, including drills, wrenches, screwdrivers, chemicals (loctite) Grinders and such,, Good store)
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Old 06-07-2011, 04:21 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wa8yxm View Post
It is a Grade 8 bolt, 1/4 inch, get one long enough that the solid part of the bolt extends through the squar bar and use washers to tighten it down.. One person suggests using lock washers (I will try that next replacement) I got 1 3/4 inch last time I bought.

NOTE: I have been using 1 1/4 inch, which means the bar cuts into the threads and they have been popping like toothpicks. Hence the recommendation for a longer bolt.


Time will tell if that's a good idea.

I buy 'em by the dozen at a local screw loose place.. That is a store who's names in "Fastener" or "Fasteners." Originally C&J Fastners, it's not Tradsman Fastener.

(I mean this store specialises in loose screws, nuts and bolts, and the tools to tighten them down and install them, including drills, wrenches, screwdrivers, chemicals (loctite) Grinders and such,, Good store)
Did you check your holes in the square tubing for elongation? I first used a grade 8, 1 1/4 and it snapped it first try, but only on the one with the elongated holes. After cutting off the tubing, (there is plenty there) and re-drilling a 1/4" hole, no more problem! (yet anyway, and they have had 6 in and outs) I have 4 of the originals coming from Tiffin just in case, and I do like the nuts on them that lock and eliminate the washers. Thank you all for your help and quick responses on this.
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Old 06-07-2011, 09:55 AM   #12
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I have already re-done those holes once and will do them again the next time I have to replace the bolts

Thankfully I'm big enough to push the dang slide in/out by hand if needed.. Done it a few times too. (When I'm in a hurry and don't feel like crawling around in the dirt under the slide)
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Old 06-08-2011, 05:32 AM   #13
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I have already re-done those holes once and will do them again the next time I have to replace the bolts

Thankfully I'm big enough to push the dang slide in/out by hand if needed.. Done it a few times too. (When I'm in a hurry and don't feel like crawling around in the dirt under the slide)
Oh yeah! Me too, When I first broke mine, it "readjusted" where it wouldn't close correctly, but in replacing bolts I also learned how to re-adjust the slide also.
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