RV Trip Planning Discussions

Go Back   iRV2 Forums > THE OWNER'S CORNER FORUMS > Tiffin Owner's Forum
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 03-27-2017, 11:44 AM   #15
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 210
Can you explain or point me to how to reroute the engine breather? I am not sure exactly what the engine breather is.
__________________

__________________
Deas
Tiffin RED 34
deasnealy is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 03-29-2017, 12:38 PM   #16
Senior Member
 
garykk's Avatar
 
Tiffin Owners Club
Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Southern NM
Posts: 1,713
If you have a rear hatch to the engine, remove that and you can access the radiator and can easier get to the area you need to clean.Using an aluminum friendly solution in a spray tank, start your engine and spray into the fan area, all around, the fan will push the solution into both the radiator and CAC. Be generous. By this time the engine is probably warmed up. Shut it down, spray the engine and let the whole thing sit for 20-30 minutes. Restart the engine and from the hatch use a garden hose and gently spray water into the fan area, do this till you don't see anymore soap coming out of the rear of the radiator. You'll see bubbles for a few minutes

The slobber tube is the breather tube on older MH Diesel engines. It's usually located just ahead of the radiator and over time, oil and mist from the tube accumulates in the radiator and CaC, attracting dirt and clogging the radiator and CAC. Some folks either extend it or run an extension to the rear of the radiator.
__________________

__________________
2018 Allegro Bus 37AP
2014 Phaeton 40 QBH (sold)
2018 Jeep Recon
garykk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2017, 12:13 PM   #17
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 210
When you say rear hatch, I assume you mean from within the RV coach and not the hatch on the exterior of the coach. On my RED I cannot see the fan or reach it without crawling under the RV and not sure I will be able to get much coverage from that angle. I know some folks can access the engine from the Bed or closet. I am not aware of my coach having that option.
__________________
Deas
Tiffin RED 34
deasnealy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2017, 12:21 PM   #18
Senior Member
 
Fleetwood Owners Club
Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Full Timing
Posts: 227
when I drove a semi many many years ago it was common to have to reduce speed and adjust RPM's when pulling long grades to keep the temperature in an acceptable range. Just because I could pour more fuel into the engine didn't mean it was a good idea to do it. I expect there are some current or former semi drivers on this forum who can explain it better than i. More fuel burn equals more temperature. There may be absolutely nothing wrong with your setup, it could be physics.
__________________
2019 Fleetwood Discovery LXE 40G
2019 RAM 1500 Lariat 4X4
bikerdavet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2017, 02:00 PM   #19
Senior Member
 
garykk's Avatar
 
Tiffin Owners Club
Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Southern NM
Posts: 1,713
Quote:
Originally Posted by deasnealy View Post
When you say rear hatch, I assume you mean from within the RV coach and not the hatch on the exterior of the coach. On my RED I cannot see the fan or reach it without crawling under the RV and not sure I will be able to get much coverage from that angle. I know some folks can access the engine from the Bed or closet. I am not aware of my coach having that option.
Yes, the hatch inside the rear of the MH. I am not familiar with your model but I would be very surprised if it did not have a rear inside access hatch.
__________________
2018 Allegro Bus 37AP
2014 Phaeton 40 QBH (sold)
2018 Jeep Recon
garykk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2017, 10:17 AM   #20
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony Lee View Post
No it doesn't but the engine has to run the compressor and when you are running out of options, turning off the aircon AND turning ON the dash defroster can make all the difference. Long grades in California have signs suggesting turn off AC in hot weather and it is a sensible suggestion.
When conditions are marginal you need to start driving by your engine and transmission temperature guages and forget about all the hoons burning you off in their 600HP rigs
I spent a couple of hours and a gallon of degreaser in a truck wash in Whitehorse getting the radiator and CAC clean and when Betty and I pulled the radiator and CAC out on the side of the road in Mexico a couple of trips later it was still clean. Now a mild clean once every trip is more than enough to keep it that way especially now the slobber tube isn't making a mess
The turn off AC signs you see on the highway are specifically for AC systems where the condenser is in front of the radiator,Just running a compressor will not add to a engine overheating no way no how if the condenser has its own stand alone electric cooling fan
tiffanman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2017, 10:22 AM   #21
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 210
Cleaned the radiator with light low impact pressure washer using Simple Green. From the engine side as best I could and then rinsed the engine and ran the engine a between rinses to high RPM's until I saw no bubbles. Called Freightliner and they had me remove a fuse. Just ran 2 small grades. Got to about 3/4 on the gauge on the first one. On the second one, I saw a market uptick in heat on the gauge but kept the RPM's around 2200. Never hit a high alarm, but I never had it get this hot before and would run it hard. I wonder with the fuse removed what else could be the problem. It was my understanding that removing the fuse put the clutch in high mode.
__________________
Deas
Tiffin RED 34
deasnealy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2017, 11:19 AM   #22
Senior Member
 
Lt Dan's Avatar


 
Tiffin Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: DFW, Texas
Posts: 3,582
I would recommend you get a ScanGauge D monitor. That way you can see the exact temperatures on the engine. I watch mine and the analog gauge goes well above the halfway point and the ScanGauge shows 210, then the fan kicks in and the temperature starts to drop. The analog gauges are not always accurate.
__________________
Dan & Ro with two Rescued Boston "Terrorists" Jade & Jewel
2017 Phaeton 40IH Maroon Coral - Power Glide Chassis with IFS (05/17)
Previously '15 Tiffin Allegro RED 38QRA and '06 Itasca Sunrise 35A
'12 Jeep JK Wrangler Sport or '08 Honda Goldwing
Lt Dan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-13-2017, 07:36 AM   #23
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 210
I will consider the scan gauge. I heard it was very useful. However, I should not get near the red regardless. I used to get about a clip over the half mark on the gauge and it would drop. Now it does not seem to drop until I slow down or take the pressure off the engine.
__________________
Deas
Tiffin RED 34
deasnealy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-13-2017, 03:54 PM   #24
Senior Member
 
BigBillSD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: San Diego
Posts: 416
My cummins 400 ISL almost hit that 220 degree mark going up that hill from the desert floor to mountain springs with the AC off and the heater blowing.

At the I didn't know about keeping the engine RPM @ 2200. Now I go up that grade and the grapevine and my coach doesn't get over 206 degrees on 90 degree days. The Original owner of my coach had an electric fan installed to exhaust the heat out the back louvers. Obviously he didn't know about going up the hills at that RPM either.


If you are still in San Diego you might check out the happy cow self service car washes. But not the one on Mission Gorge road as there isn't enough room to drive out of the bay, you would have to back out onto that busy street.
__________________
2006 Tiffin Allegro Bus 40 QDP 400 HP Cummins ISL 8.9L Toad:2014 Chevy Equinox (DWM)
Blog: http:\\cowlesmountain.com
BigBillSD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2017, 05:43 AM   #25
Senior Member




 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 1,705
Does anyone know if a Dec 2006 Cummins ISL has a slobber tube that could be re-routed. I have a side radiator so if it does have a slobber tube would it be helpful to relocate it?

Also at what coolant temp should action be taken to cool it down, like downshifting and turning off the air cond. I'm thinking of getting a Silverleaf monitoring software.
__________________
Tim
Tampa Bay
'07 40' American Tradition & '14 Honda CRV
timjet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2017, 07:50 AM   #26
Senior Member
 
Old Scout's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 5,010
Think the 2006 Cummins [manufactured in 05 maybe] has a tube on tranny end, above starter. Terrible location, oil vapor above starter collects and holds dust/dirt over time. With the fuel lift pump located just above, if you ever have a starter issue [eg, locked up solenoid], its a perfect set up for a fire. Side-mounted radiator not an issue, potential fire is--IMHO.....
PS--think the Cummins will de-rate itself around 227-230. With my 2003, I have never seen anything over 215--but like others have mentioned I pay attention to the RPMs and gear down to ensure adequate coolant circulation. Really doubt if adjusting A/C and dash heat will do much for an ISL overheat issue.......
__________________
Old Scout
2003 40' MDTS
Garden Ridge, Texas
Old Scout is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2017, 11:42 PM   #27
Senior Member
 
BigBillSD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: San Diego
Posts: 416
Quote:
Originally Posted by timjet View Post
Also at what coolant temp should action be taken to cool it down, like downshifting and turning off the air cond. I'm thinking of getting a Silverleaf monitoring software.
220 degrees is where my 2006 ISL 400 starts flashing its over temp. I have only seen that once. My freightliner chassis has a small info center that lets you scroll thru some readouts. I usually have it on the Oil Pressure screen, but when I head for the hills I change it to the temp screen.

Once I read about keeping it at 2200 RPM I no longer get anywhere near that temp. I also use the silverleaf vmspec on a tablet for lots of temps and pressures but I still concentrate on that info center screen of the temp when climbing hills in hot weather.
__________________
2006 Tiffin Allegro Bus 40 QDP 400 HP Cummins ISL 8.9L Toad:2014 Chevy Equinox (DWM)
Blog: http:\\cowlesmountain.com
BigBillSD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2017, 03:53 AM   #28
Senior Member




 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 1,705
Thanks Bill.

My info center also has a bunch of engine parameters including coolant temp, but the contrast is so weak and size of the print so small I can't read it with sunglasses.

Why are you not depending on the Silverleaf software on your computer to monitor the coolant and oil pressure? I'm thinking of getting the Silverleaf VMSpc, any reason I shouldn't?

My engine is a 400 HP ISL with a build date of Dec '06.
__________________

__________________
Tim
Tampa Bay
'07 40' American Tradition & '14 Honda CRV
timjet is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
engine, heat, heating



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Overheating slight grade - ISB 6.7 finnaz Cummins Engines 22 06-02-2017 01:21 PM
Engine overheating Dick Osterhof Freightliner Motorhome Chassis Forum 13 09-12-2010 07:07 PM
1992 Foretravel U300 Engine Overheating 92hummer Foretravel Owner's Forum 5 09-04-2010 09:30 PM
Engine overheating Dick Osterhof Tiffin Owner's Forum 1 04-27-2010 04:39 PM
Overheating Engine?? mycoolbeans Caterpillar Engine Forum 4 08-19-2009 07:53 AM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:31 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
×