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Old 05-26-2017, 10:55 AM   #29
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Latest update. We left our last location heading up to Santa Cruz. On the acceleration on to the highway, our gauge kept climbing and would not drop. I kept it at 2200 RPM's and the temps outside were about 55 degrees. It was not a very steep climb at all. I dropped down to 35 mph and the alarm went off. It then immediately started dropping after the alarm and I could regain normal speed. I have removed the Clutch fuse as instructed by Freightliner and cleaned the radiator. The fluid was recently flushed and refilled by FL in Gafney. After the alarm sound, I had no problems for our short 30 minute trip. Does this sound like a control board issue as the engine cooled down just after the alarm. Or does it still sound like the Norton Fan Clutch.

It appears I need to get into the shop to figure this out. We are near Santa Cruz CA. Does anyone recommend a good shop in the area or have any other suggestions.

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Old 05-26-2017, 12:16 PM   #30
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If pulling the fuse has worked, then i suspect the H orton Fan Clutch.
All you need to do is a web search on Horton Fan Clutch issues. You will then see what issues have come up

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Old 05-26-2017, 03:16 PM   #31
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One simple question. Did you have this problem before the major service? Is your radiator full of the correct coolant?
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Old 05-26-2017, 04:51 PM   #32
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No I did not have this problem before major service. I assume that since the service was done at Gaffney Service center they would get that part correct. How could I confirm the wrong fluid is in the tank. I show fluid in the Overflow tank.

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Old 05-26-2017, 06:57 PM   #33
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In the short-run, coolant is coolant, so shouldn't interfere with cooling. Two things here: 1--you have a coolant circulation [choke or block] problem somewhere, or 2--and air flow issue thru the radiator [include defective fan controller].....
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Old 05-26-2017, 07:43 PM   #34
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Did the overheating also occur before having the coolant system serviced? If not, perhaps the system was not fully charged (filled). This can occur when the cab heater lines were not fully charged and all the air was not flushed. As the air eventually flushes out, the system can end up low on coolant even with the tank showing full. An experienced engine mechanic can take a cold engine and fully charge the coolant system. Do not try this on a heated engine. Another question: Did this engine experience an extreme over heating? I once had a new water pump on a Cummings engine that sheared the pump propeller from the shaft and loss the ability to reach full circulation. Hard to trouble shoot without a complete failure. That engine overheated to the point of the cylinders locking up and needed a complete overhaul.
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Old 05-27-2017, 03:57 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by timjet View Post
Thanks Bill.

My info center also has a bunch of engine parameters including coolant temp, but the contrast is so weak and size of the print so small I can't read it with sunglasses.

Why are you not depending on the Silverleaf software on your computer to monitor the coolant and oil pressure? I'm thinking of getting the Silverleaf VMSpc, any reason I shouldn't?
Yeah, well I cannot see my vmspc when using my polarized sunglasses, easier to see the info center. The vmspc software is in need of a major update. It works fine, but it doesn't appear to me to be an important product to that vendor. I made my critical numbers much larger, but there is no way to make the font on the text that goes with it smaller so it makes the interface look bad. They probably should have written it in VB as its not resource intensive, and it would be simple to fix the interface customization's
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Old 05-27-2017, 04:33 PM   #36
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Overheating started after service. I do show fluid in my overflow reservoir when cold. The system will only overheat on grades and not every grade. However, when it starts to overheat it only takes about 45 seconds to hit red.

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engine, heat, heating

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