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Old 09-17-2015, 07:37 AM   #1
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Heater Challenges

2015 Allegro Open Road 34 TGA, went to bed with the electric furnace set for 68 while parked in Yellowstone with park power. Woke up this morning to a cold 59 degrees and the heater not working. I turned off the heater then back on it started for about 10 seconds then stopped again. All other systems working. I then tried our gas heater which worked about 20 seconds then started to blow cool air. So neither electric or gas heater systems seem to work. All breakers look normal---as with our last problem we greatly appreciate the forums assistance
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Old 09-17-2015, 09:57 AM   #2
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By electric heat I am assuming you mean a heat pump? If both gas and heat pump are on the fritz, I would check out the thermostat. Sometimes all it takes is a reset, shut off power to the thermostat or pull the fust that should be under the cover for about 30 seconds...worth a try.
Also check the pedestal power, your EMS could be shedding appliances due to low voltage etc.
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Old 09-17-2015, 10:07 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coach Home View Post
2015 Allegro Open Road 34 TGA, went to bed with the electric furnace set for 68 while parked in Yellowstone with park power. Woke up this morning to a cold 59 degrees and the heater not working. I turned off the heater then back on it started for about 10 seconds then stopped again. All other systems working. I then tried our gas heater which worked about 20 seconds then started to blow cool air. So neither electric or gas heater systems seem to work. All breakers look normal---as with our last problem we greatly appreciate the forums assistance
Coach Home
Electric furnace??
Me thinks more info about your "electric furnace" is needed if you expect helpful/useful replies.
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Old 09-17-2015, 05:28 PM   #4
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Have talked with Tiffin, had a park recommended repairman out and the consensus--this needs to be fixed in a repair facility. The Allegro Open Road has the LP forced heating system (one main and one bedroom area). Also has the electric roof AC/Heat pump. The roof heat pump works down to temperatures around 40 then it should automatically switch over to the LP forced heating system. In our case, the heating system is suburban and it kicks on and then the limiter switch usually set at 150 degrees kicks the system off before heating the coach interior. The LP pressure is normal, the system kicks on but exceeds the limiter preset temperature and kicks off the system. The suburban rep states the ducting may be too close to the fresh air intake thus sucking in the heated air. I think the fan system may not be the right one.....Tiffin feels the limiter switch or kick in the ducting may be the issue. The tech feels the limiter is working as the suburban tech recommends. there is no kicking or ducting obstruction. Since the temperature is not above 40 we had to buy small electric heaters to warm our coach. So we are now in contact with our dealer, the warranty folks and hoping to find a fix. I hope this is helpful for others.
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Old 09-17-2015, 08:29 PM   #5
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Keep in mind your gas fired units my have issues remaining lit at high altitudes. Not sure the elevation in Yellowstone, just something else to consider.
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Old 09-17-2015, 09:32 PM   #6
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We are currently at Old Faithful. Snow and mid 20s predicted for tonight. Altitude is 7300 ft. Our propane furnaces are working as they should be at this altitude. We have had one heat pump quit heating but that a different story. If your propane heater just comes on and blows for about 10 seconds and only cold air it could be a defective sail switch in the furnace. The sail switch detects that sufficient are is flowing in the plenum to allow the heater to light. If it doesn't detect that the heater fan will shut down. If it does detect that it sends a signal that opens the propane and the igniter should be heard trying to light the propane. If you do not hear the clicking of the igniter, the problem is probably the sail switch. An easy and cheap replacement, if you can find the right one.


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Old 09-18-2015, 06:11 AM   #7
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We still have a problem with our rear furnace as Tiffin actually forgot to cut an air intake hole. . After repair at Red Bay we still have the burner turn off before the temp is reached. . It will just turn on and off. . I suspect it's the limit switch or the furnace is just fried from operating with no intake. . Other furnace is operating fine. . Assuming you have two gas furnaces It may have something to do with your gas regulator. Pressure issue. . Have you looked at the regulator to make sure its clean.
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Old 09-18-2015, 08:30 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coach Home View Post
2015 Allegro Open Road 34 TGA, went to bed with the electric furnace set for 68 while parked in Yellowstone with park power. Woke up this morning to a cold 59 degrees and the heater not working. I turned off the heater then back on it started for about 10 seconds then stopped again. All other systems working. I then tried our gas heater which worked about 20 seconds then started to blow cool air. So neither electric or gas heater systems seem to work. All breakers look normal---as with our last problem we greatly appreciate the forums assistance
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coach Home View Post
Have talked with Tiffin, had a park recommended repairman out and the consensus--this needs to be fixed in a repair facility. The Allegro Open Road has the LP forced heating system (one main and one bedroom area). Also has the electric roof AC/Heat pump. The roof heat pump works down to temperatures around 40 then it should automatically switch over to the LP forced heating system. In our case, the heating system is suburban and it kicks on and then the limiter switch usually set at 150 degrees kicks the system off before heating the coach interior. The LP pressure is normal, the system kicks on but exceeds the limiter preset temperature and kicks off the system. The suburban rep states the ducting may be too close to the fresh air intake thus sucking in the heated air. I think the fan system may not be the right one.....Tiffin feels the limiter switch or kick in the ducting may be the issue. The tech feels the limiter is working as the suburban tech recommends. there is no kicking or ducting obstruction. Since the temperature is not above 40 we had to buy small electric heaters to warm our coach. So we are now in contact with our dealer, the warranty folks and hoping to find a fix. I hope this is helpful for others.
Coach Home
After all of that I am still confused as to what "heater" you are having a problem with.

Is it the "electric roof top combination A/C and heat pump" that is problematic?.....OR is it the "propane furnace"?

If your "propane furnace" is problematic I can tell you that both/either the high heat "limit switch" and/or the "sail switch" in my Suberban SF-42F furnace can be easily replaced by any
"do-it-yourselfer" with a little mechanical ability.

Mel
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Old 09-18-2015, 09:15 AM   #9
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I have a boiler plate (I think) that describes furnace operation but here is what I'd suggest for checking.

Stand outside near the Furnace exhaust. Hold your hand like 12 inches from exhaust and have someone inside activate it.. You should hear the blower start and feel a cool breeze.. Then you will hear a CLICK or CLUNK followed by a snapping sound (removal of the outer cover enhances sounds) and feel heat.. Then it may shut off, then it comes on again, and a 3rd time, then it locks off. and you will see (if the cover is off) a flashing red light, likey 3 3 3 3 3 .... (3 flashes then a pause and 3 more).

Let us know where in this sequence it fails.
Suspects: First step (cool breeze) covered, successful
Clunk snap heat (sounds like you have that part)
So now we have extablished fire

This brings us to the suspect list:
Burner: Orifice partially clogged leading to poor flame (You may notice smoke, or other "Artifiacts" when burner engages if so report)

Bad thermal sensor (Flame sensor, thermocouple) Very rare but possible
Bad connection (Thermocouple to motoher board) easily fixed, Wiggle disconnect and reconnect wires

Bad mother board (Replace with Dinosaur Boards) very common design flaw. Dino fixed on theirs.
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Old 09-19-2015, 12:48 AM   #10
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Had the same issue when I picked up my Allegro Red from Colton RV in Buffalo NY, at Colton they were blaming the cold outside, since it was 15 degrees in March!! They stated that the LP regulator was freezing on me!! Wrong!! When I got home in Phoenix I still had the same issue with 50 degrees outside, I took it to La Mesa RV and they found the mother board defective and replace it with a new one and now everything is working correctly, have taken the MH a couple of times to the Grand Canyon when the temperature at the Canyon was still in the high 30's at night!! Good Luck!!
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Old 09-19-2015, 12:51 PM   #11
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One possibility to check is the supply hoses from the LP tank. Our RED had a kink in the hose coming from the tank that kept the furnaces from getting a good supply of gas. Our service tech found it while working on another issue. If it has a kink, then the pressure could show to be okay but not getting enough gas supply to stay burning.
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Old 09-20-2015, 02:58 PM   #12
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I have had this issue on past coaches and trailers sometimes it was just a matter of adjusting and cleaning the igniter electrodes.
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