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He's asking about a different but separate washer appliance and the accompanying Dryer unit. If your units are designated for RV installation, a online dimension spec. might be available. Doubt if handle protrusion is accounted for in the dims. [see below]
From my experience, I offer the following:
I fashioned a carpeted ramp at the entry door and "slide" the appliance up on it's side. Far safer than carrying thru a tight opening on narrow steps. Had to remove washer door handle for fit. Found door screws were "floating" type ie, they merely bolt into a pair of "loose" 2 inch backer plates not secured to the body of the appliance. Once screws were "out" the backer plate fell freely away into the innerds of chassis. Had to dig around to find them. A heavy-duty rare earth magnet would have held them inplace had I know in advance.
Remember the entire route to the closet needs to be freed-up. I had to remove pantry doors and the bedroom dresser frame completely for my unit. Bedroom pocket door only allowed a scant 1/2" clearance [had to pad both door edge & opposite jamb in order to prevent scuffing of woodwork.
Had to fashion a wheeled dolly to safely move the heavy appliance past bath and into position.A 2-person job, able bodied. Heavy lifting is needed. I made cribbage in front of cabinet and shimmed it upward to final elevation height. Then simply slide it forward over the frame crossrail.
Word-of-advice: place a fiberglass overflow tray with drain line under the washer. Screw it into closet plywood deck & caulk screw penetrations. Slide washer in & lastly, install front dam of overflow tray. If dryer needs thru-wall vent, scope-out path without sharp bends. I rotozipped directly to rear between ladder rungs.[be mindful for metal plates for ladder mounting.]
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2004 Tiffin 34XB,Workhorse.22K,8.1L,Gas
Saturn SL
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Linear Mode
