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Old 08-22-2019, 05:40 PM   #1
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Wayfarer AC Drain

Our AC drains right by the steps into the coach and soaks our mat. Anybody got a hack to fix this problem?
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Old 08-23-2019, 05:25 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by TStrong View Post
Our AC drains right by the steps into the coach and soaks our mat. Anybody got a hack to fix this problem?
I'll be following this thread with interest. I have the same issue. The problem is the condensate from the AC unit runs directly onto the roof, into the drip rail and then drains off the coach at the lowest corner. For whatever reason, that is, most often, the corner right next to the entry. And, unfortunately, the drip rail exit point isn't quite far enough away from the entry step to avoid condensate dripping right next to or on the steps / mat.

Doing a little research, I saw that my AIRXCEL Model 47074B879 AC unit has a condensate pump installed. I removed the top of the unit and easily located the condensate pump and drain tube. The pump has a short, eight inch section of 1/2 ID hose attached that simply allows the pump to push water into the open area of the housing. I noted with interest that the water from the pump is already corroding some of the fittings and other electrical elements nearby.

I took this text from the 47000 Series Installation Manual - "If the air conditioner is equipped with an optional evaporator condensate pump, a 1/2" I.D. hose must be provided that runs from the 14 square opening, through the vehicle ceiling and down the side wall to allow water to drain under the vehicle. The hose must not be allowed to kink shut while making a bend. Connect the top end of the drain hose to the barbed fitting shown in Figure 4."

As running the hose through the roof and down the sidewall is obviously impractical, I'm considering extending the tube along the top of the motorhome to the drivers side and depositing it in the drip rail on that side. I sent AIRXCEL support an email asking them if that would be acceptable. The only concern I can see would be ensuring the hose didn't become clogged and any effect from wind (while driving) across the opening causing a vacuum or pressure in the hose. That should be easily avoided by some sort of shielding or angle cut at the exit. I'll post AIRXCEL's response.
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Old 08-25-2019, 07:23 AM   #3
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I would be very interested in how you accomplish this fix. I don't want to recreate the wheel if smarter people have already done it. Assuming you don't patent it.
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Old 08-28-2019, 09:41 PM   #4
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Tiffin Wayfarer air conditioner drain reroute



I did it! I rerouted the air conditioner drain from the roof air conditioner on my 2020 Tiffin Wayfarer. A super easy project that makes life in the Wayfarer much nicer AND eliminates a serious corrosion concern for your air conditioner hardware.

As delivered, the air conditioner dumps all the condensate into the base pan of the unit. The water sits in the pan, and wets the hardware and devices in the pan. When enough builds up, the water runs out of the pan via whatever exit holes in the bottom of the pan that gravity dictates and then follows the same rules across the roof to drop to the ground. Often, the drip location was the forward passenger side drip rail exit, right next to the entry door.

A little research revealed that the air conditioner already had a condensate pump. That's a very good thing because without one, this modification wouldn't be possible. Some units simply let the condensate fall directly into the pan. So, thanks to the existence of the pump, all that was necessary was to reroute the condensate pump output to a different location.

Ideally, the condensate would be routed through the roof and down the sidewall to exit the coach directly to the ground. Unfortunately, Tiffin did not take this approach on the Wayfarer. I will recommend that they consider this in the future.

My goal was primarily to ensure that the condensate NEVER dripped off the roof near the entry step. We do NOT like that! So, to keep things simple, and the drain line run short, I decided to just drop the condensate into the drivers side drip rail. That way, it will always exit on that side, front or back, as gravity dictates, keeping it away from our living areas on the passenger side.

The project is very simple and straightforward.

Parts needed:
- Eight feet of 1/4 inside diameter vinyl tubing. Clear is fine, black would be better. I got my clear tubing at Ace Hardware - 29c a foot. The outside diameter is not important but, if it is smaller than the existing tubing, you may need a different clamp or a bushing.
- 1 cartridge of Dicor self-leveling lap sealant or equivalent
- 6-10 adhesive zip tie anchors
- 6-10 zip ties

Tools needed:
- Screwdrivers - flat and Phillips
- Diagonal cutters
- razor knive
- caulk gun

Procedure
- Turn off the air conditioner. Not entirely necessary but a good safety step for a number of reasons.
- Remove the four screws on the top of the cover.
- Set the cover aside.
- Loosen the hose clamp and remove the existing, very short drain tube from the condensate pump. Mine was connected with a hose clamp. Retain the clamp.
- Elongate the hole in the center, forward, bottom of the pan slightly along the side-to-side axis of the coach. The the new tube gets routed from the pump, on the passenger side of the air conditioner, to the drip rail on the drivers side. A razor knife cuts the pan material just fine if you take your time.
- Connect the new vinyl tubing to the condensate pump output. Secure with the hose clamp or a zip tie.
- Route the tubing from the pump through the top of the elongated drain hole, out the bottom of the pan, and off the drivers side of the roof. Be sure there are no kinks.
- Clean the appropriate roof area with alcohol. Jack Daniels is acceptable. Toast your progress so far!
- Install the adhesive zip tie anchors in a row immediately behind the cap seam.
- Attach the tubing to the anchors with zip ties. Be careful not to over tighten the zip ties such that they compress the tubing. The anchors may not make a good connection to the roof. Simply hold them in place while installing the ties. They will be held permanently in place with the sealant applied later.
- Route the tubing over the edge of the roof and allow it to lay in the drip rail for an inch or so. Cut the end of the tubing with the diagonal cutters or the razor knife.
- Be sure to use one anchor on the side of the coach to hold the tubing in the drip rail. As this anchor will sit on a painted surface, it should hold better than the ones on the roof.
- Apply lap sealant liberally to all of the anchors and tubing to hold it in place. More is better. Avoid applying sealant to the painted surfaces on the roof edge for appearance reasons.
- Reinstall the air conditioner cover. The manufacturer uses blue Locktite to secure the screws. You may want to reapply same. I did not.
- Perform a test run to ensure you have good condensate flow. A blockage in this line will cause your air conditioner to quit working properly.
- Enjoy your newly dry passenger side!

Notes:
- There is a condenser coil held in place by the forward passenger side cover attachment screw. When you remove the cover, this assembly may come loose as it is held to the evaporator housing by some cheap adhesive. Hold this part in place, aligned with the screw hole, using tape, when reinstalling the cover, in order to get the screw reinstalled. A very poor design!
- You might choose to use black tubing if you can find it. Doing so would improve the appearance of the installation where the tubing exits the roof to the drip rail. Alternatively, you could paint the tubing or wrap it in electrical tape.
- A black zip tie anchor could be used on the painted surface to improve the appearance of the installation.
- If the vinyl tubing outer diameter is smaller than the existing tubing, you might want to purchase a smaller hose clamp.
- In the photos, the lap sealant had just been applied and had not yet settled. It looks nicer once it self-levels.

This is a great, easy, 30 minute project that will really improve the livability of your Wayfarer! Enjoy!

Here is a link to the all the photos - https://randyking.smugmug.com/Wayfar...ndensate-Drain
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Old 08-29-2019, 07:23 AM   #5
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Thank you for the response. That sounds like it will be very easy. Can you tell me if you have the 13.5K or 15K AC unit? We have the 15K unit. I don't know if there will be any difference, but it will be helpful to know if I need to check mine out before buying the supplies. Also, I have not climbed on the roof of the Wayfarer yet, and have been concerned about roof damage from doing so. Other than the obvious like not drinking the Jack Daniels before going up there and stepping on the roof vents are there any problem areas I need to be concerned with? Thank you for your post and your help.
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Old 08-29-2019, 07:52 AM   #6
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You know, you could put a plastic lego block under the front tire and the water would run off the back of the coach. Or put a block under the front and rear tires and drain it off the driver's side. Or, you could go for the complex, expensive solution and add a sump pumps.

BTW, the clear plastic tubing shown in f14AV8r's post will promote algae growth and soon be blocked. Tiffin on the big coaches runs the drain through PEX tubing under the roof. It still can get plugged but much less frequently.
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Old 08-30-2019, 08:33 AM   #7
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I agree manufacturers could do better to direct roof water on many models away from the doorways.

One potential thing to check here in addition to those mentioned above is wintering that horizontal portion of the line (may just blow it out after last trip of the year).
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Old 09-03-2019, 10:04 AM   #8
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I am currently at the new Wayfarer service center and spoke to David about this. I even showed him the photos posted by f14av8r. He thought it was an excellent MOD and would be easy to see any kind of obstruction. He further stated the factory was working on a change that would run a line inside and our the back.
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Old 09-03-2019, 10:20 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TStrong View Post
Thank you for the response. That sounds like it will be very easy. Can you tell me if you have the 13.5K or 15K AC unit? We have the 15K unit. I don't know if there will be any difference, but it will be helpful to know if I need to check mine out before buying the supplies. Also, I have not climbed on the roof of the Wayfarer yet, and have been concerned about roof damage from doing so. Other than the obvious like not drinking the Jack Daniels before going up there and stepping on the roof vents are there any problem areas I need to be concerned with? Thank you for your post and your help.
I have the 15K unit.
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Old 09-03-2019, 10:24 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by luvlabs View Post
You know, you could put a plastic lego block under the front tire and the water would run off the back of the coach. Or put a block under the front and rear tires and drain it off the driver's side. Or, you could go for the complex, expensive solution and add a sump pumps.

BTW, the clear plastic tubing shown in f14AV8r's post will promote algae growth and soon be blocked. Tiffin on the big coaches runs the drain through PEX tubing under the roof. It still can get plugged but much less frequently.
We don't use leveling blocks. The coach has an auto level system. Yes, it would be possible to manually adjust the levelers to have a angle such that the condensate ran to the back. But, what a pain that would be! The whole point of having a leveling system is to LEVEL.

The air conditioner already has a condensate pump. All that was required was to extend the tube outside the housing to a more favorable location.

The tube is clear and thus easy to identify any clog. I appreciate caution about the algae though. I'll keep a lookout for that.

The modification is working really well so far. Just spent a week in Key West and enjoyed the dry passenger side!
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Old 09-08-2019, 03:58 PM   #11
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What a great thread. Thanks f14av8r for the post and pic of your mod to this very annoying issue!

Best,
-Mark
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