03 Pace Arrow auxiliary boost switch---Help

[MrMudstud]

On my 03 Pace Arrow, I just found out that the map lights on the side of the driver and passenger seats above the side windows are on the main engine battery. I used them extensively on by last trip and we had a cold front and my engine battery was DEAD. The auxiliary switch on the dash WOULD NOT connect when I pressed it to boost the main engine battery when I tried to start the engine. But, when I hooked the booster cables from the car battery, it started right up and began charging from the engine alternator. I’m lost, don’t know where to start to look?

1. Where do I start to look and what am I looking for?
2. Is there a fuse that may be burnt and where would that be?
3. Would a relay be stuck if there is one? Where would that be?
4. If the battery is DEAD it read 4.5 volts, would it be too weak to receive any help from the auxiliary batteries. This does not make any sense, since it cranked right up from the car battery with the cables.

Thanks in advance for the help………….Ron

[jDavid]

I had the same problem a month ago. On my coach, under the hood, directly above the generator, was a contactor. Check it first and there is another one in the j-box as well. Easy to check with a volt meter. Takes two people unless you have long meter leads. Should be a simple fix.

[Bob (WA0MQE)]

jDavid is correct. Usually under the hood, is the battery breaker box. It's the black box about 8x8 inches. The cover has a couple of flip levers that allow you to open it. When someone presses the AUX switch you should hear a solenoid "clunk", if you don't hear it there could be a blown fuse or loose connection.

[Clifftall]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob (WA0MQE) jDavid is correct. Usually under the hood, is the battery breaker box. It's the black box about 8x8 inches. The cover has a couple of flip levers that allow you to open it. When someone presses the AUX switch you should hear a solenoid "clunk", if you don't hear it there could be a blown fuse or loose connection.

That is great advise to store away in the old head. thanks, I'm so glad I found this irv2 site. It has been most helpful to me and I know it will continue to be so. I've traveled all 49 states and all 10 canadian prov., but were fortunate to have good equipment and luck. The info I gather will pay off huge in the future. thanks again.Cliff

[MrMudstud]

This is what I discovered. I found the relay or cylindernoid in the control box. The main and auxiliary batteries run to two buss bars that each connect to the cylindernoid that separates the two batteries. There also are 2 more wires that connect to the cylindernoid, one is a black wire for the ground and the 2nd is a yellow wire where the current comes to activate the switch. The cylindernoid was hot when I touch it meaning that it was activated the whole time.

This is what I don’t understand. When I am plugged in to 120 volt, the yellow wire is hot or has current flowing thru it. When I unplug the cord is does not. I went to the switch on the dash and open it up and found 4 wires. One black, one grey and 2 white wires. I believe the black is the ground; the grey is the light when you turn on the headlights and the 2 white wires from the each set of batteries. “I said I believe”.

Now, when I take a jumper wire and touch each white wire the cylindernoid clunks. OK, that is good. But, nothing happens when I put the switch on and press it, because current is going thru the yellow wire and it is already activated. Took the switch apart and check with ohms meter and had continuity when I press the switch. All looks good

Took the yellow wire off the cylindernoid, plug in to 120 volt and took the yellow wire and touch pole and the cylindernoid went clunk. Then it sends current to the main battery lead. (I had the main battery disconnected when I did this.)

I am thinking that one contact is working but the other one is stuck. Don’t know why when I plug in to 120 volt the cylindernoid goes clunk, meaning something else is bad ore shorting out.

Don’t know where to go now…………Any Ideas……..

[MrMudstud]

Found the problem. After running down all the leads from the schematic sheet I acquired for RV Custom Products BBC, I got my problem fixed. My entire problem was that the connection for one of the main harness was not making contact. I pulled the connection off and on a few times to make sure they were making contact and bingo—we had contact. A few 5 hours hunt, but we had success…………