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Old 09-01-2016, 08:54 AM   #15
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I called fleetwood to get the part number for the alternator. They had me call chevy with my vin number so the alternator should be right buy I'm not guaranteeing this. Here is the pic I was trying to post
(photo removed to save space)

This is NOT the isolator that is in your Bounder, UNLESS a previous owner installed it (and as Mel said miswired it).

The Isolator in your Bounder IS the solenoid that you use when you activate the Aux Start switch. That same solenoid is controlled by sensing circuits that determine the need to connect the batteries for charging OR to isolate the batteries from each other when NOT charging.

The isolation controlled by the chassis battery/alternator system is very simple. The batteries remain isolated until the alternator voltage exceeds the current battery voltage (anything above 13.2 volts), then the solenoid closes and adds the house batteries to the mix.

Your isolator solenoid MAY be defective (always connecting the batteries) and thus putting too much load on the alternator, but that alone should NOT cause the "check engine light" unless the engine or the alternator is slowing down too much.

Have the idle speed checked, and have the belt tightened. If that doesn't fix it you need to check that solenoid.

Question:
  • When NOT on shore power or engine power, do your battery voltages read exactly the same?
If they DO, then that solenoid is shorted, and should be replaced.
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Old 09-02-2016, 10:56 AM   #16
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Ok the batteries are all reading the exact same when tested as you said. How do I find the solenoid part number I need. Thank you again so much for your help. I can't tell you how much I appreciate it.
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Old 09-02-2016, 01:14 PM   #17
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Ok the batteries are all reading the exact same when tested as you said. How do I find the solenoid part number I need. Thank you again so much for your help. I can't tell you how much I appreciate it.

This is the one I would suggest, but any 12V continuous duty solenoid will work.
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Old 09-02-2016, 01:23 PM   #18
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Thank you again!
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Old 09-06-2016, 12:59 PM   #19
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Hi. Do these direction apply to a 1995 fleetwood bounder also? They were written for a 1999.

Fleetwood Bounder Battery Control Center
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Old 09-06-2016, 01:14 PM   #20
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I just eat this type of thread up. PLEASE keep us informed as to the eventual outcome of this problem.
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Old 09-06-2016, 01:47 PM   #21
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Hi. Do these direction apply to a 1995 fleetwood bounder also? They were written for a 1999. Fleetwood Bounder Battery Control Center
The quick answer is NO.

There were some rather dramatic changes made to the physical layout of the BCC between the '95 and the '99. Electrically, the changes were slower to evolve.

The size of the circuit board was changed, and as you can see, the solenoids were placed behind the board rather than beside it. This complicated the removal and replacement of components considerably. These changes made those directions necessary.

Here is what a '95 BCC will look like;


Here is what a '99 BCC might look like;
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Old 09-06-2016, 01:51 PM   #22
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Thank you! So mine is easier to change. The husband will be very happy to hear that.
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Old 09-06-2016, 01:54 PM   #23
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I just eat this type of thread up. PLEASE keep us informed as to the eventual outcome of this problem.
I will you know when we get her up and running. Hopefully we can take her out a time or 2 before it gets cold.
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Old 09-06-2016, 01:58 PM   #24
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Thank you! So mine is easier to change. The husband will be very happy to hear that.
Yes, very much easier. The Isolator solenoid is the one in the lower right corner of photo number one.

Remind your husband to disconnect the RV from shore power and also disconnect the Negative battery cables from both the HOUSE and CHASSIS batteries before starting the job.

Also, take photos of how it's currently wired so it can be put back together easily.
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Old 09-06-2016, 09:56 PM   #25
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The part is ordered. Will take the pictures so nothing gets mixed thank you again for your help! owning an rv has really been a learning experience.
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Old 09-07-2016, 03:49 AM   #26
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I feel that changing the part you are changing, although a common failure item, is not going to cure a low voltage at idle problem.

Keep us posted on the outcome.
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Old 09-07-2016, 10:46 AM   #27
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I feel that changing the part you are changing, although a common failure item, is not going to cure a low voltage at idle problem.

Keep us posted on the outcome.
You may very well be right (time will tell), but the solenoid is definitely bad (shorted), and needs to be replaced to get the batteries separated so further diagnosis can be performed, if needed.

The subject of other factors can be easily investigated once that condition is eliminated.
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Old 09-10-2016, 09:10 AM   #28
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Ok. I'm back again. Changed the soleniod and thats not the problem. WE got the wiring diagram from fleetwood and they had 3 extra wires wiring the batteries together. We got that rewired but then it burned up a battery terminal. We were looking at the pic that old bounder posted of the bcc right off we noticed that the orange wire that is going to the black box in the top left corner in not wired correctly . Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the bcc?
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