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Old 08-13-2015, 07:44 AM   #197
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I heard that mysloride! Beware, the motorcoach can quickly turn into a disease, the cure unobtainable yet continuously sought - perfection. So frustrating!

Why did they run the breather tube where it will dirty up everything underneath!!!! Must be fixed!
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Old 08-13-2015, 08:13 AM   #198
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Engine detailing continuing

Waiting on insulation to arrive. The insulation on the engine room cover under the bed is good, but I'm going to add to that 70 mils of reflective to help with heat transfer. The extra thickness won't affect the frame installation.

Engine cover insulation frame sanded, primed, painted, and topcoated:

Click image for larger version

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Muffler before and after - cleaned and degreased, painted and topcoated with VHT paint:

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Prepping muffler brackets for paint:

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Engine compartment bracket that holds electrics ready for install:

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Pic of the area behind the coolant recovery tank, passenger side front corner and side area - first coat of zinc chromate. Will be topcoated before insulation goes in:
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FYI - End view of the American Coach insulation. No heat barrier but the insulation itself is higher quality -foam backing, barrier, more foam, and the face cover piece. The face covering is what failed:
Click image for larger version

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Pics of the finished piping in the engine compartment:

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ID:	103159
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ID:	103160
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Old 08-13-2015, 08:22 AM   #199
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stkt View Post
Waiting on insulation to arrive. The insulation on the engine room cover under the bed is good, but I'm going to add to that 70 mils of reflective to help with heat transfer. The extra thickness won't affect the frame installation.

Engine cover insulation frame sanded, primed, painted, and topcoated:

Attachment 103150

Muffler before and after - cleaned and degreased, painted and topcoated with VHT paint:

Attachment 103151
Attachment 103152

Prepping muffler brackets for paint:

Attachment 103153
Attachment 103155
Engine compartment bracket that holds electrics ready for install:

Attachment 103154

Pic of the area behind the coolant recovery tank, passenger side front corner and side area - first coat of zinc chromate. Will be topcoated before insulation goes in:
Attachment 103156

FYI - End view of the American Coach insulation. No heat barrier but the insulation itself is higher quality -foam backing, barrier, more foam, and the face cover piece. The face covering is what failed:
Attachment 103157

Pics of the finished piping in the engine compartment:

Attachment 103159
Attachment 103160
Your coach is better than a new coach.
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Old 08-13-2015, 10:14 AM   #200
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WOW!!! Beautiful job. I'll bet nicer than when she rolled out of the factory.

Mike.
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Old 08-13-2015, 04:31 PM   #201
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Thx Glenn, wish that were the case. The more you clean, it seems the more you find to clean. It would be so much easier if I could just drop the engine and transmission!
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Old 08-13-2015, 04:33 PM   #202
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Mike,

I'm going to take your lead. I saw what I believe to be a post you made on another rv forum, regarding breather oil recovery. It was a great post. I've ordered the parts today and just pray I can figure out a way to hook up and mount it all. After all this detail work the last thing I need is oil mist blowing around in that engine compartment.
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Old 08-13-2015, 07:04 PM   #203
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Originally Posted by stkt View Post
Mike,

I'm going to take your lead. I saw what I believe to be a post you made on another rv forum, regarding breather oil recovery. It was a great post. I've ordered the parts today and just pray I can figure out a way to hook up and mount it all. After all this detail work the last thing I need is oil mist blowing around in that engine compartment.
Pass that along Please !
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Old 08-13-2015, 07:16 PM   #204
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Pass that along Please !
I will see if I can find it. It is a oil breather capture system that drains back into the oil pan. I put it on right after purchasing our coach back in 2007 and it really does assist in keeping the undercarriage clean and free from oil vapors/mist from the breather (slobber) tube.

Mike.
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Old 08-14-2015, 07:48 AM   #205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stkt View Post
Mike,

I'm going to take your lead. I saw what I believe to be a post you made on another rv forum, regarding breather oil recovery. It was a great post. I've ordered the parts today and just pray I can figure out a way to hook up and mount it all. After all this detail work the last thing I need is oil mist blowing around in that engine compartment.
Quote:
Originally Posted by NHRA225 View Post
Pass that along Please !
I searched and cannot locate the thread that I posted with all of the pictures on that "other" forum but here is the Fleetguard CCV (Closed Crankcase Ventilation) retrofit system that I installed.
https://www.cumminsfiltration.com/pd...es/LT32640.pdf

Here is a link to that particular thread where it was discussed several years ago.
RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Class A Motorhomes: Filter for slobber tube on DP's

Again, sorry I couldn't find the thread that had my installation process and pictures but it is a pretty straightforward install. The worst part is finding a location to mount the capture enclosure and still have enough drop to drain the condensed oil vapors back into the oil pan.

Hope this helps, sorry to hijack.

Mike.
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Old 08-14-2015, 06:24 PM   #206
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Sorry Op
Mike
I installed this manny moons ago,
Keeps the oil mist off my trailer .
Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByiRV2 - RV Forum1439598256.079646.jpg
Views:	115
Size:	99.1 KB
ID:	103330


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Old 08-14-2015, 07:42 PM   #207
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Sorry Op
Mike
I installed this manny moons ago,
Keeps the oil mist off my trailer .
Attachment 103330


Sent from my iPhone using iRV2 - RV Forum
Nice Chuck. I thought about using an automotive/race catch can as well but when I found the one from Fleetguard I chose the easy way out. Yours looks great though. Much more "kustom" than mine.

I agree though about keeping the trailer clean. It is embarassing to pull into the pits with black goo all over the trailer.

Mike.
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Old 08-18-2015, 01:18 PM   #208
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Engine compartment insulation installation

The engine compartment insulation is complete. This was a much longer job than I had budgeted for (time and money), but the final result is better than the factory.

Step one is to remove the existing insulation. This was a dirty, greasy, get filthy job. After initially taking off the insulation ( mine had 8 separate pieces) then the dirty work started - removing the glue. I tried denatured alcohol, paint thinner, Cleanz Easy, and gave up. Went to the local hardware store and got this stuff - it works, and fast. Neutralizes with water.

Click image for larger version

Name:	2015-08-18 2015-08-18 001 001.jpg
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After cleaning, all the metal backing got a coat of rust preventative. There wasn't hardly any rust present but I wanted to take the precaution since everything was exposed.

The insulation included Thermo Tech 70 mil barrier, Soundown 1 inch with barrier, and 3/4 inch Boom Mat from DEI. Edge tape was also from DEI. Adhesive was 3M Super 90. This insulation combination was more expensive than the replacement from American Coach but the original did not have any heat barrier, only sound.

The Thermo Tech was placed over the existing insulation on the engine hatch under the bed. The existing insulation here was in great shape.

Click image for larger version

Name:	2015-08-18 2015-08-18 001 002.jpg
Views:	105
Size:	504.1 KB
ID:	103757

Here are some pics of the completed installation (driver side, passenger side, rear of engine compartment):

Click image for larger version

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ID:	103770

If you want to take on this project the idea of measure three times and then measure again before cutting could not be overstated - The insulation is expensive! Also make sure when cutting your notches you have the right orientation or you'll end up with cutouts on the top instead of the bottom :/

I read where one guy paid $4,000 to have his engine compartment insulation replaced, most of which was all labor!

I should have the oil catch can installation completed tomorrow and will post pics and provide details.
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Old 08-18-2015, 04:12 PM   #209
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stkt View Post
The engine compartment insulation is complete. This was a much longer job than I had budgeted for (time and money), but the final result is better than the factory.

Step one is to remove the existing insulation. This was a dirty, greasy, get filthy job. After initially taking off the insulation ( mine had 8 separate pieces) then the dirty work started - removing the glue. I tried denatured alcohol, paint thinner, Cleanz Easy, and gave up. Went to the local hardware store and got this stuff - it works, and fast. Neutralizes with water.

Attachment 103756

After cleaning, all the metal backing got a coat of rust preventative. There wasn't hardly any rust present but I wanted to take the precaution since everything was exposed.

The insulation included Thermo Tech 70 mil barrier, Soundown 1 inch with barrier, and 3/4 inch Boom Mat from DEI. Edge tape was also from DEI. Adhesive was 3M Super 90. This insulation combination was more expensive than the replacement from American Coach but the original did not have any heat barrier, only sound.

The Thermo Tech was placed over the existing insulation on the engine hatch under the bed. The existing insulation here was in great shape.

Attachment 103757

Here are some pics of the completed installation (driver side, passenger side, rear of engine compartment):

Attachment 103768

Attachment 103769

Attachment 103770

If you want to take on this project the idea of measure three times and then measure again before cutting could not be overstated - The insulation is expensive! Also make sure when cutting your notches you have the right orientation or you'll end up with cutouts on the top instead of the bottom :/

I read where one guy paid $4,000 to have his engine compartment insulation replaced, most of which was all labor!

I should have the oil catch can installation completed tomorrow and will post pics and provide details.
As always an outstanding job.
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Old 08-19-2015, 03:39 PM   #210
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Oil Recovery Installation

After all this engine compartment detailing, the thought of oil mist from the breather tube could only mean one thing - I'd be doing this again next year. Not that it isn't fun, but an annual engine compartment overhaul seems a bit much.

After reading several articles and listening to folks here on IRV2, I decided to install an oil recovery system. If you go online you can find all kinds of exotic solutions, from multiple baffle plates in containers to systems that return the oil to the crankcase. All I want is to stop the oil from getting everywhere in the engine compartment while not restricting the breather tube in any way. I also wanted to be able to quickly and easily drain any accumulated oil from the container.

The solution came from Summit Racing Equipment in the form of a Moroso Oil Breather tank (MOR-85400) along with a 45 degree 12AN Hose Barb (SUM-220709). I also utilized about a foot of 3/4 heater hose, two 3/4 clamps, one 4" clamp and some wire ties.

The air dryer is fitted to the frame via a universal adapter, so there existed an unused slot for the clamp to route through. This was done by unplugging the air dryer and loosening the four bolts that hold the air dryer to the adapter, which is attached to the frame, routing the clamp through the slot and then tightening all the bolts. The clearance from the air filter to the frame is about 1/4" on this install. The existing breather tube had to be cut approximately 6 inches and rerouted further back to line up with the 45 degree fitting. Note the petcock on the bottom of the oil tank is higher than the bottom of the air dryer.

Finished install. Note the air filter and the frame rail - about 1/4" clearance.

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Here you can see from the underside the 3/4 hose attached to the 45 degree fitting. If you look closely up the tube you can see the second clamp where the 3/4 tube fits perfectly over the existing breather hose which was cut approximately 6 inches and rerouted.

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Another view from the underside.

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Note the felt placed between the mounting plate and the oil can to prevent rubbing.

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The system looks nice, but only time time will tell if this solution truly works.
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