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kb2ztx · 05-29-2016, 05:45 AM

I thought someone had posted info on this in the past but I have searched everywhere and cannot find it. On the bounder in the engine compartment is the DC distribution panel Fleetwood installed with the battery relays and such. My coach battery will not charge any longer. I have narrowed it down to the diode prior to the connection to the board. I can't read the info on the diode to replace. Think someone had a schematic/diagram to this board ?

superk · 05-29-2016, 07:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kb2ztx

I thought someone had posted info on this in the past but I have searched everywhere and cannot find it. On the bounder in the engine compartment is the DC distribution panel Fleetwood installed with the battery relays and such. My coach battery will not charge any longer. I have narrowed it down to the diode prior to the connection to the board. I can't read the info on the diode to replace. Think someone had a schematic/diagram to this board ?

Old_bounder will chime in soon enough I imagine. The BCC as it is called is made by a company called RV Custom Products I believe. You may be able to find some info by searching them up?

Old Bounder · 05-29-2016, 08:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kb2ztx

I thought someone had posted info on this in the past but I have searched everywhere and cannot find it. On the bounder in the engine compartment is the DC distribution panel Fleetwood installed with the battery relays and such. My coach battery will not charge any longer. I have narrowed it down to the diode prior to the connection to the board. I can't read the info on the diode to replace. Think someone had a schematic/diagram to this board ?

Complete component level schematics are not available for the logic circuits within the BCC, but here is the data that is available.

If you will follow the diagnostic procedures in the text portion of the document, you should locate your problem.

If you detect a failure within the PC board, the documentation will simply suggest that you replace the board. There are less expensive ways to restore the charging capability, however. Ask, if that's the result.

kb2ztx · 05-31-2016, 06:50 AM

Thanks all. I know its the diode as I have 12v before and 0 after when I remove the battery charge wire. I'll just order a replacement with a 15v piv and try that. It appears the only reason the diode is in circuit is to separate the 2 battery systems. I know I can install another charger to charge this but would like to not worry about it.

I'll let folks know what I find out.

Old Bounder · 05-31-2016, 06:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kb2ztx

Thanks all. I know its the diode as I have 12v before and 0 after when I remove the battery charge wire. I'll just order a replacement with a 15v piv and try that. It appears the only reason the diode is in circuit is to separate the 2 battery systems. I know I can install another charger to charge this but would like to not worry about it.

I'll let folks know what I find out.

I'm not sure just which diode you are speaking of, or just how you determined that those symptoms indicate a faulty diode, or how that determination explains your problem, but I eagerly await your findings.

kb2ztx · 06-01-2016, 07:05 PM

LOL....Well been in the electronics repair business for 20+ years so I'm not afraid to pull a board out and do some basic component level checks. P15 has a diode in line (P15 goes to the chassis battery for the charge wire). No power thru the diode means no power to the chassis battery to charge it !

Old Bounder · 06-01-2016, 11:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kb2ztx

LOL....Well been in the electronics repair business for 20+ years so I'm not afraid to pull a board out and do some basic component level checks. P15 has a diode in line (P15 goes to the chassis battery for the charge wire). No power thru the diode means no power to the chassis battery to charge it !

20+ years of electronics repair experience huh? My 40+ years of electronic engineering experience says you are somewhat confused.

You obviously do not understand that BCC diagram at all. That diode attached to P15 actually feeds 12V FROM the chassis battery TO the disconnect switches, to control the disconnect solenoids. That diode has nothing to do with charging the batteries. Current would have to flow backwards through the diode to accomplish anything close to what you think it should. The diode and land patterns on the board would almost immediately burn up trying to handle the level of charge current normally required.

Here is how that BCC really works:
When you are plugged to shore power, your house batteries are charged from the on-board converter/charger through the two DC circuit breakers feeding P7 on the board. Voltage is then fed to the voltage sensing circuitry in the interconnect relay driver circuitry. When this charging voltage exceeds 13.2v. the relay driver will close the interconnect relay (also know as the Isolator relay, the boost relay, the emergency start relay, charge relay, etc...).

This interconnect relay closes and connects the chassis battery and the house batteries together, thus charging the chassis battery also.

Old Bounder · 06-03-2016, 04:38 PM

I see from your PM that you are still convinced that the diode connected to P15 is DEFECTIVE. Did you remove the voltage from P8 and compare the forward and backward resistance, of the diode attached there, to the one at P15. That will tell you if the diode is defective or not.

Of course, it would be simpler to just disconnect P15 and P8 (one at a time) and see if your disconnect switches and solenoids still operate correctly. If they do, then the diodes are good.

Once you understand how the BCC works, it's rarely necessary to do any component level testing until you know you are in the right area.

You never said whether your aux batteries charged from the engine alternator or not.
You never said whether your aux start (boost) switch worked or not.

The answers to these two questions would help pinpoint your problem.

kb2ztx · 06-03-2016, 06:10 PM

I pulled the circuit board from the box and tested the diodes on the picnic table with no voltage on the board with my Fluke meter. The diode is open. I realize this is most likely no the issue, but it is open and not working for its intended purpose.

Aux (house/coach) batteries charged fine from NC all the way to PA while driving. Chassis battery also charged and showed 1/10 volt different on the digital meter I installed in the dash.

When I left NC and the chassis battery was dead (6.8 volts) I used the AUX Start/Boost Switch to start the camper.

Old Bounder · 06-03-2016, 07:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kb2ztx

I pulled the circuit board from the box and tested the diodes on the picnic table with no voltage on the board with my Fluke meter. The diode is open. I realize this is most likely no the issue, but it is open and not working for its intended purpose.

Aux (house/coach) batteries charged fine from NC all the way to PA while driving. Chassis battery also charged and showed 1/10 volt different on the digital meter I installed in the dash.

When I left NC and the chassis battery was dead (6.8 volts) I used the AUX Start/Boost Switch to start the camper.

Check the diode off P7. It's nearly the only component in the charging path from the converter to the chassis battery that isn't also used to charge the house batteries. All the other components (i.e. aux start switch, interconnect relay and ignition relay) have proven operational in your scenario.