Community Forums

TroySmith80 · 08-14-2016, 06:10 PM

I recently bought a used 1999 Bounder 34V. I was putting a new stereo in and assumed that the Park / Travel switch switches the stereo's power source from the chassis battery to the house batteries.

However, when testing and messing around with my multimeter i became confused. It appeared not to be switching between the two power sources because i was getting the exact same voltage from either switch position. I assumed that the 2 different power sources would not coincidentally have exactly the same voltage. Finally I took my meter outside and tested both the chassis battery and the house batteries (two 6-volt golf cart batteries) and found that in fact, yes, they were at exactly the same voltage.

But the plot thickens. I was doing more troubleshooting while my wife was washing dishes and i noticed that the voltage dropped momentarily while the water pump was running. That's not surprising except that i noticed the voltage dropped (when water pump runs) even between the terminals of the chassis battery.

Shouldn't the chassis battery be isolated from the water pump and the rest of the house 12v system? What's going on here?

much thanks.

BFlinn181 · 08-14-2016, 07:02 PM

Often the two battery groups are connected when there's a charging voltage. Were you plugged in to shore power? The converter/charger would provide a charging voltage to the house batteries that would be passed on to the chassis battery. If no charging voltage was present, then the two groups should be isolated from each other.

TroySmith80 · 08-14-2016, 11:08 PM

I wasn't charging. I wonder if some relay or something that connects them while charging is stuck and keeping them together even when not charging.

mrt_1111 · 08-14-2016, 11:29 PM

The solenoid that separates my house and chassis batteries is located in the BCC (Battery Control Center).

House Husband · 08-16-2016, 01:12 PM

The isolator relay will close when either battery bank reaches 13.2 or 13.3 volts. The relay will open when the voltage drops below 12.8 volts.

Richard

TroySmith80 · 08-17-2016, 07:41 AM

thanks for the info guys, i haven't had a chance to dig into it yet (maybe this weekend) but i'll start there!

chuckbear · 08-17-2016, 08:26 AM

Our park switch seems to only bypass the ignition switch to get power and not change the source. The water pump will pull down the battery slightly if no charger is attached. As will anything more than a very light load. Chuck

House Husband · 08-17-2016, 04:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuckbear

Our park switch seems to only bypass the ignition switch to get power and not change the source. The water pump will pull down the battery slightly if no charger is attached. As will anything more than a very light load. Chuck

As designed by Fleetwood, the radio travel/park switch is supposed to change battery source. So as not to discharge the chassis battery when parked and not on shore power. Yours may have been rewired.

Richard

BFlinn181 · 08-17-2016, 05:18 PM

Most modern dash stereos have two (+) leads. One is all time connected to 12v for memory and clock. The second one in an RV is connected to the center post of a STDP switch. Set on one side, it gets power through the ignition (+) that switches off with the key. The other side is wired to a (+) source from the house batteries.

I can't believe Bounder screwed that up, more likely someone else "improving" the wiring or replacing the stereo and not knowing how it should be wired.

TroySmith80 · 08-17-2016, 10:24 PM

Yes Bob, that appears to be correct. The problem is, i'm pretty sure the stereo pulls it's operating power from the line that is direct to the battery. So i'm pretty sure that even in park mode, one could run the chassis battery dead using the stereo.

The further complicating matter in my particular case seems to be that the two battery systems appear to linked at all times as indicated by exact same voltage and by voltage sag at chassis battery when water pump runs.

Chuckbear, yes any significant load will temporarily pull down the battery voltage, but which battery? The water pump shouldn't normally affect voltage at the chassis battery, right?

I haven't had a chance to poke around the isolators with my meter yet... not sure when i will. Super busy selling/storing most of our possessions, selling business, clearing out of rental home and getting ready to move into the RV. This problem is not at the top of my priorities, but it is in there somewhere. Also getting a 450w solar system in the next couple of weeks.

Old Bounder · 08-17-2016, 11:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RLS7201

As designed by Fleetwood, the radio travel/park switch is supposed to change battery source. So as not to discharge the chassis battery when parked and not on shore power. Yours may have been rewired.

Richard

I've verified that this is the way my radio switch works. The memory feed comes from the chassis battery, and is not switched.

TroySmith80 · 08-18-2016, 11:50 PM

Thanks Old Bounder! It seems silly for fleetwood to even bother with the switch if it's only switching the ignition line. In fact, it's misleading. The "memory" line is the one that provides the power the stereo runs on. The other "ignition" line is just to indicate to the stereo whether it's "allowed" to be on or not. At least that's how my Alpine is set up.

On second thought, I guess perhaps the intent is not to prevent the chassis battery from going dead, but instead it's to allow you to run the stereo without having to put the key in the ignition. Hmm...

mojoracing · 08-19-2016, 05:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TroySmith80

Thanks Old Bounder! It seems silly for fleetwood to even bother with the switch if it's only switching the ignition line. In fact, it's misleading. The "memory" line is the one that provides the power the stereo runs on. The other "ignition" line is just to indicate to the stereo whether it's "allowed" to be on or not. At least that's how my Alpine is set up.

On second thought, I guess perhaps the intent is not to prevent the chassis battery from going dead, but instead it's to allow you to run the stereo without having to put the key in the ignition. Hmm...

Your second thought is correct!

Old Bounder · 08-19-2016, 10:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TroySmith80

Thanks Old Bounder! It seems silly for fleetwood to even bother with the switch if it's only switching the ignition line. In fact, it's misleading. The "memory" line is the one that provides the power the stereo runs on. The other "ignition" line is just to indicate to the stereo whether it's "allowed" to be on or not. At least that's how my Alpine is set up.

On second thought, I guess perhaps the intent is not to prevent the chassis battery from going dead, but instead it's to allow you to run the stereo without having to put the key in the ignition. Hmm...

Not sure why, (or if), Fleetwood would change the purpose or wiring of the switch from original, but the original wiring of the switch definitely swaps the chassis and house batteries as the source for powering the electronics and mechanics in the radio and TAPE/CD portions of the OEM radio.

The memory for the "presets" is left permanently connected to the chassis battery (not ignition controlled), simply because it would not survive the switch over or the frequent use of the house/chassis battery disconnects.

The switch was installed to facilitate the use of the radio, while "parked", while preventing the unnecessary draw on the chassis battery. The fact that the inconvenience of needing the ignition switch (in ACC position) is not required, was purely incidental.

If you have other than the OEM dash radio installed, then all bets are off.