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Mike77z · 07-29-2017, 11:27 AM

Hi back at it again , I have most of the issues sovled that i have had with this coach since i purchased it last fall. However i had a interesting one that due to work hours being stupid i havent had much time to look at until tonight and i'm going to ask the wealth of knowledge on here before me and my meter have some quality time with the unit since i dont have any of the chassis wiring schematics

I replaced the house batteries as one was completly dry and wouldn't come back to life after filling and recharging it. Now i have a interesting issue of no power to the coach (12v) when the ignition is turned off , nothing displaying on the Convertor Charger display in the cupboards and the genset will fire run for 30 seconds to 5 minutes then it appears to click off a solenoid and shuts everything down.

I have checked all the wafer fuses and Blade Fuses and all appear fine. Next is to get into the BCC and check noids ect. Just wondering if anyone has had similar issues in the past and can point me where to start as i still have a leak in the dash Air Conditioning and i would prefer to spend my limited time i have fixing the air and time saved is a great thing

Thanks in advance Mike

Skip426 · 07-29-2017, 11:39 AM

First , re-check all the connections at the batteries , and look for a master fuse or circuit breaker in the main positive cable, should be in the first 3 feet of the cable.
Check for coach battery power to the BCC.
Then here's a pdf that may help once your inside.

mackwrench · 07-29-2017, 12:17 PM

I take it you didn't have this issue until battery replacement?

Double check connections, make sure batteries are in correct series. On my 1999 Eagle the fuse is mounted on the battery compartment wall, if you have a volt meter make sure you got 12 volts at both side of fuse....

The gen-set shut down is telling me a battery or batteries are hooked up incorrect...

Mike77z · 07-29-2017, 01:07 PM

Nope never had this issue previously, the new bank of batteries are slightly larger then the previous set ill double check my work but i had 12 v at each set ( 6volt s /p 4 batteries ) i had 12v at the chassis and house posts in the BCC last night but i may very well have one of the 4 wrong lets hope not as i left it all together last night when i left the bus.

When i power cycle the ignition switch i can keep lets say the radio on using the radio switch on the dash, Ill dig into it with the DVM this evening and post a little better description of the issues that i find

Thanks Mike

Edit Also the previous set of batteries had 2 dead cells in one battery and still it was fine besides draining the bank rapidly

**CLIFFTALL** · 07-29-2017, 01:12 PM

The BCC in my Bounder had two 12 volt circuit breakers. The resets are the two black buttons in the lower left of this photo. I popped them once and lost all 12 volt .

Click image for larger version

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Mike77z · 07-29-2017, 04:10 PM

Ok well everything is hooked up correctly (thank God after doing this stuff for a living for 28 years on auto and heavy truck I was beginning to worry )

Latching noid pictured is disconnecting when the genny starts or shore power is connected. When ignition is on latching noid applies and stays on with either shore or genny running.

I'll dig a little deeper the bcc is labeled intellitec 73 00578 I'll also take a Google for that In case posted pdf isn't 100% the same as this unit.

Left behind the board

Thanks Mike

Mike77z · 07-29-2017, 05:00 PM

Just to ask a stupid question since my googling skills seem to be lacking as much as my coach skills does the bcc have a protect circuit in it if say the chassis batteries are low it disconnects the house to try to allow you to start without ending up stranded ?

I'm slowly beginning to think I may also have a bad set of chassis batteries. Load get to come shortly

Thanks mike

Old Bounder · 07-29-2017, 05:25 PM

Try pressing those two little black plungers (buttons) on those two gray devices just to the right of the BCC board. Those are the two DC breakers in the feed circuits of the house batteries that Cliff mentioned.

Those breakers will almost always trip if you replace the house batteries while shore power is applied. That's because the charger/converter keeps 12V on the cables even when disconnected from the batteries, and can easily be shorted by mistake.

Mike77z · 07-29-2017, 06:45 PM

I tested both side of those breakers and pretty well had my nose on them looking for the brake controller deed wire while I was there and never saw the reset buttons. My god I'll try that tomorrow . Thanks old Bounder

On a secondary note have to replace the bloody condensor too after hunting that issue for a while. Oh well the joys of old rvs

Thanks Mike

responts · 07-31-2017, 08:01 PM

mike had the same problem with our 2000 tradition replaced coach and chassis and main engine relays at battery control center no help just solved problem found loose connection at ground terminal block located behind all batteries must have loosened while installing batteries removed cleaned and reinstalled junction nuts there are two nuts . the connections are on the wall directly behind batteries

LloydWells · 08-03-2017, 01:35 PM

Hi Mike,

I just had the exact same problem on my 2014 FW Bounder 36E. (After replacing house batteries) And I wanted to share my solution.

After going through several troubleshooting attempts, I decided to go simple... I Tested 12v power inputs at BCC... got 12.5 or so from chassis battery side, and only 1.9 from house batteries. Not good!

So I went back to house battery compartment and found that there are two 200A fuses inside the compartment. When tested, one had 12+ volts on both sides of the fuse, the other had 12+ on the battery side, but only 1.9 on the "out" side. Not good! I removed the fuse and tested resistance... meter did not move... bad fuse.

(A good fuse should show a resistance of around zero ohms)

So after new fuse was installed, voltage tested at 12+ on both sides of new fuse. Voltage at 12+ at the BCC on both the chassis and house battery inputs. All power is back on in coach. I ran on the generator for about 15 minutes without losing power, and now I'm on 30A shore power with no problems so far.

)) (All without even having to start the engine!)

Hope this helps! I have attached some pics that might help as well. Good luck! Feel free to ask if you need more details.

Lloyd