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Old 12-07-2014, 09:08 AM   #15
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I'd like to hear how far you get with Powergear. I have a full wall slide on my 07 Discovery. It has ONE safety switch that's connected to the rear TV (it swings out). If that TV is not fully seated the slide will NOT BUDGE.
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Old 12-13-2014, 04:13 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarleyDan View Post
I have a 2006 Pace Arrow on a W24 chassis,the full wall slide was out and when i went to put it in it moved about a inch and that was it.The mechanic came out and said we had power to the controller but nothing coming out of controller.Anybody ever had this happen to them before. they want around 1200.00 for new controller.
When ours got out of sync, I had to hold the set button in on controller while DW worked the button on the inside to take the slide in and out. used it that way for 2 trips. Not a good thing to do. Would not move either way without holding the controller set button, think it was the in button, had to use a small phillips screwdriver. but the controller was good. the dealer reset the sync for 100.00, and works good now. Hope your that lucky!! You can try it and see if it will work that way. Just don't let it put a lot pressure on wall, let off button when it seats, there is no limits that way.
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Old 12-19-2014, 06:20 PM   #17
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When ours got out of sync, I had to hold the set button in on controller while DW worked the button on the inside to take the slide in and out. used it that way for 2 trips. Not a good thing to do. Would not move either way without holding the controller set button, think it was the in button, had to use a small phillips screwdriver. but the controller was good. the dealer reset the sync for 100.00, and works good now. Hope your that lucky!! You can try it and see if it will work that way. Just don't let it put a lot pressure on wall, let off button when it seats, there is no limits that way.
WOW Your lucky you did not do any damage to your slide. The "set buttons" your referring to should ONLY be used for setting the stop points!

My Powergear full wall slide uses three "High Torque" electric motors distinguishable by the black rubber boot that fit over the end of the motors. They each have a lever on the end of the motor that disengages the brake. The rubber boot is also covers the lever.

Note that the rubber boots will start to crack. Eventually moisture will get into the brake & you will start having issues. I'm going to replace all three of my boots.

The three rails that the motors drive have NO end of travel switches! When the stop points are properly set the controller simply cuts power to the motors. so, if your holding the set buttons while someone is bring the slide in or out you better stop at the proper point or you can easily strip teeth, p gears and/or shear pins if equipped.

The motors might also have an encoder attached. The encoders on my slide are attached to the gear box. The encoders count the revolutions.
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Old 12-19-2014, 07:31 PM   #18
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What model is the controller? $1200 sounds very high. I don't have a full wall slide, but I do have two large slides and one small. The controls for the bigger ones are about $125 and the bedroom slide one is less than $100.
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Old 12-19-2014, 07:58 PM   #19
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Mchero let me know if you have any luck getting the rubber boots. I tried with Fleetwood then I ask them to call powergear they did I escalated it at Fleetwood and they were nice and tried to help. But in the end for my orginal motors there are no boots available. Powergear told Fleetwood I would have to buy new motors!!! For 500 bucks each. And I would have to replace all three since the new motors are different and you can't mix them. $1500.00 just to get rubber boots.. You can get boots for the larger new motors.
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Old 12-22-2014, 05:10 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by mchero View Post
WOW Your lucky you did not do any damage to your slide. The "set buttons" your referring to should ONLY be used for setting the stop points!

My Powergear full wall slide uses three "High Torque" electric motors distinguishable by the black rubber boot that fit over the end of the motors. They each have a lever on the end of the motor that disengages the brake. The rubber boot is also covers the lever.

Note that the rubber boots will start to crack. Eventually moisture will get into the brake & you will start having issues. I'm going to replace all three of my boots.

The three rails that the motors drive have NO end of travel switches! When the stop points are properly set the controller simply cuts power to the motors. so, if your holding the set buttons while someone is bring the slide in or out you better stop at the proper point or you can easily strip teeth, p gears and/or shear pins if equipped.

The motors might also have an encoder attached. The encoders on my slide are attached to the gear box. The encoders count the revolutions.
I see what your saying about doing damage, but we made a point to stop when the gasket touched, which is where they are set to stop. Would not want to make a habit of using it that way, that's the reason I had it set. The first time I done it was an emergency in. Did use it a couple more times like that. till I could get it in for service. But if it loses it setting and wont work, you can try that to get it in. And you can reset it that way, but it takes three people. And I have the same setup you have..
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Old 12-22-2014, 07:40 PM   #21
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Oh yeah!
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Old 02-01-2015, 06:15 AM   #22
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I have a 2005 Pace Arrow 36D as well and yes, this has happened to me. The first thing that you must know is that the controller will not move the slide unless it receives a minimum of 13.2 volts. This can only be achieved when your, engine is running and the alternator is producing it's 14.4 volts and the Battery Control Centre relay is allowing that voltage to the controller. I had a fuse that was improperly seated by the previous owner that prevented the alternator from passing the voltage back to the coach batteries and the full wall slide controller. The other method of obtaining 13.2 volts to the controller is to start the generator, or connect to shore power. The converter should then apply a charge to the batteries of 13.2 volts or better and this will allow the full wall slide controller to operate.
I also had an electrical connection problem to the rear most DC motor. The tech found that and cut off the connectors and re-attached the wires. However before I could warn him, he unlocked the brake on the motor. So after it was re-connected, the slide functioned, but the motors were out of sync which prevented the slide form closing completely. So a slide controller programming unit had to ordered from Power Gear, and the controller had to be re-programmed. This reprogramming synchronizes the motors and sets the stop points and stores them in the controller. It also re-programs the slide locks as well.

I hope that this helps. it was a challenge to learn all of this. I forgot to mention that after the engine is started, the chassis battery must be fully charged before any voltage will be allowed to be passed to the house batteries, so there may be a momentary delay to allow for this before the solenoid switches and allows the voltage to flow to the house batteries.
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Old 02-01-2015, 08:06 AM   #23
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Reread Easypace response before this method.

I had a failure some years ago and there is a way to override the slide controller. First make sure that the tv in the bedroom is closed if you have one. Mine has a switch on the door. Also make sure that breaker on the inverter is not popped (if you have one) Second, once you do this the program will be erased and you will have to take it to a dealer who has a special device to program the slide. On the controller (this takes two people one at the controller and one at the slide control) There are two small red reset buttons. One is labeled in and one is labeled out. They are too small to push with fingers we used pencil erasers. One person pushes both buttons at the same time the other person activates the slide with the slide control switch. The slide will come in. You can used this method to extend and close the slide until you get it fixed but as soon as you touch the reset the program is erased.

Send me a pm if you want a picture.
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Old 02-01-2015, 09:14 AM   #24
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There is also another device called an Emergency Retract Module. This device can be used if the controller has failed and the slide is out. You simply remove the motor plugs from the controller board and plug them into the ERM motor sockets. Then clamp the ERM power wires to a 12 volt battery, press the big red button, and this delivers power to the motors and retracts the slide. A re-programming of the slide controller will be necessary after this procedure, but like I said this is only used if the controller has failed. I found this device on E-Bay for $50, but I suppose that it is available from Power Gear.
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Old 02-01-2015, 10:14 AM   #25
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Powergear sells whats called a Teaching Pendant. You can purchase thru PPL Motorhomes, they are a Powergear Distributor. Costs a cool $800.00 for a box full of switches.

Note that you CAN re-program the full wall slide w/o the teaching pendant. i'd follow the directions Powergear provides. The link is for Fleetwood full wall slides.

http://support.powergearus.com/techdocs/82-S0379.pdf


Drop down to page 6 & look at the boxed text on the left. It explains programming control WITHOUT programming box.


Pcurts post above states pressing BOTH buttons! Don't think that would work with my full wall slide. I'd like to see the powergear docs where it states pressing both buttons.


People with full wall slides need to COMPLETELY understand how they function before trying to by-pass. Can do some MAJOR damage! The Fleetwood full wall slides don't have any kind of "end of travel switch". Those high torque motors, identified by the black boots that cover the brake lever and motor


I experience a slight pucker factor every time I pull that slide in. I'd HATE to loose electric. The documentation for pulling in the slide manually looks like a nightmare with three people AND proper tools. I could not image if I was alone how long it would take.


I was thinking of purchasing a "teaching Pendant" but $800.00 is a tad too steep for me. I don't work on enough slides to warrant an $800.00 tool.


Perhaps I can locate a used one.
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Old 02-01-2015, 08:27 PM   #26
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Quote:
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Reread Easypace response before this method.

I had a failure some years ago and there is a way to override the slide controller. First make sure that the tv in the bedroom is closed if you have one. Mine has a switch on the door. Also make sure that breaker on the inverter is not popped (if you have one) Second, once you do this the program will be erased and you will have to take it to a dealer who has a special device to program the slide. On the controller (this takes two people one at the controller and one at the slide control) There are two small red reset buttons. One is labeled in and one is labeled out. They are too small to push with fingers we used pencil erasers. One person pushes both buttons at the same time the other person activates the slide with the slide control switch. The slide will come in. You can used this method to extend and close the slide until you get it fixed but as soon as you touch the reset the program is erased.


Send me a pm if you want a picture.
That's the way I brought mine in when it would not work. Hadit reset at dealer, cost 100.00.
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Old 02-01-2015, 08:32 PM   #27
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Oh yeah!
And I was talking about the slide not the coach!!!
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