Bounder: 2012 35K issues

[JohnH12]

I know this has probably been covered before but I finally had a chance to inspect the roof of our "new to us" 2012 Bounder 35K.
The roof is a seamless TPO but there are several areas along the seam lines that need attention due to cracks in the caulk. I've been told that the normal Dicor 501 self leveling stuff will work fine and I still have about a half tube left over.
I've also heard that the better caulk is the Dicor 2 part caulk where you paint a liquid primer first and then run the caulk.
Should I just ditch the old stuff?
Anyone with personal experience have an input?

The other issue is that I found the rear anti-sway bar was not secured properly. The "u" bracket that holds the bar and bushing to the axle only had one loose bolt holding it on. The lower bolt and nut are missing.
The bolt head stamp is 9.8 grade and I'm having trouble locating the proper replacement.
I'll go to a Ford dealer Monday with pics but wonder if anyone else has a recommended source for F-53 chassis hardware?

The last is the CHF info. Our front anti-sway bar is attached using the outer holes so I know I can move the bolts to the inner holes to help some with the handling.
My question is about the extended link that some recommend.
Is it required or just a good idea?

Thanks to all. This forum has more great info than any of my local dealerships.

[z3406]

I did the CHF to my 14 Bounder 35K took about 45 minutes to do the front and back very noticeable improvement all I did was move the links to the other set of holes. In my case the hardware was intact.

[rapid rick]

Johnh12,
I used the dicor 2 part on my tpo roof last year to touch up around penetrations that had minor cracks.I found that by using a little bit of primer on a terrycloth rag to clean the area first worked great ,then applied primer,then caulk.The primer cleaned better than many other products I tried,and was much,much quicker,just clean area before it dries,and don't dip dirty rag into can of primer.

PS ditch the old stuff.