Bounder: 2016 Bounder Experience

[S Kisner]

Thank you very much for the info. I will grease the jacks
Scott

[S Kisner]

Does anyone have a service and maintenance manual for slide outs?
Thanks
Scott

[computerguy]

Originally Posted by Bound around

Does anyone have a service and maintenance manual for slide outs?
Thanks
Scott

I believe this is it. It is the manual I downloaded but never confirmed.
Power Gear M2 Slide Out Manual

[computerguy]

Having an issue periodically with my fresh water tank filling un-expectantly. This happens while hooked to a water hose and the Andersen valve in the City position. It has only happened 3 times in the past year and am in the unit FT.
Also, I notice my water pump cycling for a brief second or two when I am not hooked up to City water and the valve is in the Normal position.
Did some research and they talk about looking at the check valve as the cause. Where is this so called check valve and how can I test it?
Anyone else having a similar issue?

[z3406]

CG
Your symptoms sound like the Anderson Valve acting up. They make a rebuild cartridge kit for the valve that should solve your issues. I contacted Anderson Brass directly and they sent me the kit at no charge. At the time I was told by Anderson Brass that there was a bad batch of valves around the time that the 2016 Bounders were being built. Good Luck
The check valve is part of the internals of the water pump itself, there is a rebuild kit for that too it that is also an issue.

[pchuckie]

I like to have zero pressure on the valve when I change its position.

i.e. turn the pump off and open the faucet in the outdoor water bay.

I never had a problem with my valve until I was camping at the Bristol dragstrip and had the water on city connected to their water supply which was high pressure and high flow because most of the campers were gone. When I moved the valve to tank it filled the tank and I left. Taking a shower on the way home it acted like I was out of water, then the next campground it filled the tank no matter which position the valve was in. Rebuilt the valve and solved the problem.

[AFfiredawg]

I found that if it is sporadic the valve just needs to be re-lubed... this is what is used by the manufacturer to lube the core... 1310476 Molykote Valve Lubricant and Sealant 5.3 oz. Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IKUIO82..._l6LmBb1BWG93K

[Bshevel]

Originally Posted by computerguy

Having an issue periodically with my fresh water tank filling un-expectantly. This happens while hooked to a water hose and the Andersen valve in the City position. It has only happened 3 times in the past year and am in the unit FT.
Also, I notice my water pump cycling for a brief second or two when I am not hooked up to City water and the valve is in the Normal position.
Did some research and they talk about looking at the check valve as the cause. Where is this so called check valve and how can I test it?
Anyone else having a similar issue?

I'm with Z3406 on this one.

One of the great thing about this forum is the information available when something goes wrong.

A short time ago I noticed while checking the tank levels on the digilevel that the fresh water tank was showing Full. It was 2/3rd the day before. We were in an RV park in Arkansas on FHU. I went out to check and not only was it full but overflowing out the vent pipe. I figured out what it was very quickly because I remembered reading on this forum what happens when the Anderson 4-way malfunctions. We switched over to the tank usage from the city water for the next few legs of the trip until we got to a Tucson park where I could receive the repair part delivered from Fitzilla.com. I replaced it and all is good again. Below is a picture of the faulty valve insert. The black O-ring was damaged on both sides allowing water to bypass the valve.

[computerguy]

Originally Posted by AFfiredawg

I found that if it is sporadic the valve just needs to be re-lubed... this is what is used by the manufacturer to lube the core... 1310476 Molykote Valve Lubricant and Sealant 5.3 oz. Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IKUIO82..._l6LmBb1BWG93K

Hmmmm. I need to look at that valve again.
A while back I had a problem with the valve and already had a free replacement sent and I replaced it. Back then it was missing one rubber gasket on one of the holes. Kind of why I didn't think it was the valve this time. Silly me I wonder if lubing it really should be a periodic maintenance step????
I do make a habit of relieving pressure before I try to turn the valve (even though the guy at Anderson said it wasn't really necessary.)

[AFfiredawg]

Originally Posted by computerguy

Hmmmm. I need to look at that valve again.

A while back I had a problem with the valve and already had a free replacement sent and I replaced it. Back then it was missing one rubber gasket on one of the holes. Kind of why I didn't think it was the valve this time. Silly me I wonder if lubing it really should be a periodic maintenance step????

I do make a habit of relieving pressure before I try to turn the valve (even though the guy at Anderson said it wasn't really necessary.)

Yeah I keep a spare on hand but if I pull the original out and all the o rings are good then I just lube it and put it back in...has worked every time so far....

[Rick9698]

Originally Posted by z3406

CG
Your symptoms sound like the Anderson Valve acting up. They make a rebuild cartridge kit for the valve that should solve your issues. I contacted Anderson Brass directly and they sent me the kit at no charge. At the time I was told by Anderson Brass that there was a bad batch of valves around the time that the 2016 Bounders were being built. Good Luck
The check valve is part of the internals of the water pump itself, there is a rebuild kit for that too it that is also an issue.

Had same issue, replace the water pump. Also never fill fresh water using the Anderson value without turning incoming water off first. You will blow the O ring out in your pump

[Bob1340]

Lots of good info here.



My 2017 Bounder 35K experience so far has been pretty nil. We bought it used, 7200 miles, at the end of April this year. (first MH) Due to prior commitments we didn't have a chance to use it till Memorial weekend. We set it up and figured out and used everything except the DVD and the furnace. Everything seemed fine and dandy except the carefree awning which could not stand the 1-2mph gusts of wind. And I was shocked to find no fuses were marked anywhere except in the inverter bay. Once we went to leave lo and behold no power to the jacks or slides. After figuring it out on my own, (the REV tech center was no help to me), I got the jacks up and slides in and took it back to where I just bought it. After they worked on it a while they were certain it was in either a relay or the wiring to the relay which controls the safety function of both the jacks and slides. Basically it is hooked up to the parking brake and neutral safety switches. After receiving multiple different wiring schematics etc from Fleetwood the tech was positive this was the issue as he bypassed the safety system and sure enough everything worked. The tech and the service manager basically begged Fleetwood for the location of said relay or at least a hint. Fleetwood told them to just follow the wires. LOL Anyway after two weeks the tech said to heck with them and just rewired the system. It all works as advertised now I guess. It would sure seem someone would know where the relay is located. I haven't picked it up yet but I'll have the dealer tech show me what he did to make it work.



So I guess my Bounder experience so far is scary.

[computerguy]

Originally Posted by Bob1340

Lots of good info here.



My 2017 Bounder 35K experience so far has been pretty nil. We bought it used, 7200 miles, at the end of April this year. (first MH) Due to prior commitments we didn't have a chance to use it till Memorial weekend. We set it up and figured out and used everything except the DVD and the furnace. Everything seemed fine and dandy except the carefree awning which could not stand the 1-2mph gusts of wind. And I was shocked to find no fuses were marked anywhere except in the inverter bay. Once we went to leave lo and behold no power to the jacks or slides. After figuring it out on my own, (the REV tech center was no help to me), I got the jacks up and slides in and took it back to where I just bought it. After they worked on it a while they were certain it was in either a relay or the wiring to the relay which controls the safety function of both the jacks and slides. Basically it is hooked up to the parking brake and neutral safety switches. After receiving multiple different wiring schematics etc from Fleetwood the tech was positive this was the issue as he bypassed the safety system and sure enough everything worked. The tech and the service manager basically begged Fleetwood for the location of said relay or at least a hint. Fleetwood told them to just follow the wires. LOL Anyway after two weeks the tech said to heck with them and just rewired the system. It all works as advertised now I guess. It would sure seem someone would know where the relay is located. I haven't picked it up yet but I'll have the dealer tech show me what he did to make it work.



So I guess my Bounder experience so far is scary.

I think someone started a separate thread on the 2017 Bounder but they are similar so we welcome with open arms
Awning is a known problem. Contact Carefree and ask for the less sensitive sensor. I did and installed it but was not sensitive enough so went back to the original one. Goes in somewhere around 10 mph.
Circuit Breaker locations is a known problem. It's up to the line to determine where to put them. I have a couple inside the BCC and some on the back wall of the inverter compartment on the back wall near the fresh water tank.
Once my initial hiccups were worked out it has been a pretty solid unit. I have about 14k miles on mine.

[lynch763]

Originally Posted by Bshevel

I'm with Z3406 on this one.

One of the great thing about this forum is the information available when something goes wrong.

A short time ago I noticed while checking the tank levels on the digilevel that the fresh water tank was showing Full. It was 2/3rd the day before. We were in an RV park in Arkansas on FHU. I went out to check and not only was it full but overflowing out the vent pipe. I figured out what it was very quickly because I remembered reading on this forum what happens when the Anderson 4-way malfunctions. We switched over to the tank usage from the city water for the next few legs of the trip until we got to a Tucson park where I could receive the repair part delivered from Fitzilla.com. I replaced it and all is good again. Below is a picture of the faulty valve insert. The black O-ring was damaged on both sides allowing water to bypass the valve.

I agree with you... this forum is a great tool.

I also had to replace the Anderson valve innards; unfortunately, it only worked for a few months before it started leaking again.