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09-29-2018, 09:53 AM
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#1303
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Community Administrator
Fleetwood Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Marquette, Michigan "Da UP" & Lehigh Acres Florida
Posts: 21,827
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Mine the bed frame stays where it is mounted and just the slide moves out exposing the bed, same with the closets at the foot of the bed.
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John & Cathy R.
06 Pace Arrow 38L Workhorse W24
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09-29-2018, 10:02 PM
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#1304
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: California
Posts: 838
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnRR
Mine the bed frame stays where it is mounted and just the slide moves out exposing the bed, same with the closets at the foot of the bed.
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Different animals. On the 35 K the bed lower base is attached to the motorhome floor. It don't move. The upper bed base slides in and out with the slide. The "above floor slide" stuff is all under the lower base with a very small access panel at the front that is not accessible when the slide is closed unless you are a monkey and very difficult to access when the slide is opened. In order to close it manually you have to go from difficult to non-accessible monkey which I have not heard where anyone has done this.
A couple months ago we spent 3-4 days at the coast. I was bound and determined to to get my 3/8" ratchet with a 3/4" socket on it in there and try it out. Slide out, it was impossible for me to get my long arm in there. I was not even able to actually feel the 3/4" crank point. (I suppose it is 3/4" but being there is no owners manual for this rig it is just a guess.) With the slide closed I could via braille actually get the panel off with a stubby phillips while laying half in the rear bath/half in the bedroom. But no way could I get my long arm in there. Very poor design IMHO.
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Old Bakersfield Man
2017 Bounder 35K 2017 and 2006 Rubicon Wrangler Unlimited NSA Ready Brute Elite tow bar
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09-29-2018, 10:06 PM
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#1305
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: California
Posts: 838
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And if the slide is closed try to avoid putting much weight on the driver side of the bed! IE, crawling over to get in the rear bath, sleeping at a rest stop with the slide closed ETC. The top portion is cantilevered off the bottom of the base quite a bit when the slide is closed. You can and will damage the bed.
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Old Bakersfield Man
2017 Bounder 35K 2017 and 2006 Rubicon Wrangler Unlimited NSA Ready Brute Elite tow bar
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09-29-2018, 10:10 PM
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#1306
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Community Administrator
Fleetwood Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Marquette, Michigan "Da UP" & Lehigh Acres Florida
Posts: 21,827
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So much for my thinking they might have been kissing cousins so to speak.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob1340
Different animals. On the 35 K the bed lower base is attached to the motorhome floor. It don't move. The upper bed base slides in and out with the slide. The "above floor slide" stuff is all under the lower base with a very small access panel at the front that is not accessible when the slide is closed unless you are a monkey and very difficult to access when the slide is opened. In order to close it manually you have to go from difficult to non-accessible monkey which I have not heard where anyone has done this.
A couple months ago we spent 3-4 days at the coast. I was bound and determined to to get my 3/8" ratchet with a 3/4" socket on it in there and try it out. Slide out, it was impossible for me to get my long arm in there. I was not even able to actually feel the 3/4" crank point. (I suppose it is 3/4" but being there is no owners manual for this rig it is just a guess.) With the slide closed I could via braille actually get the panel off with a stubby phillips while laying half in the rear bath/half in the bedroom. But no way could I get my long arm in there. Very poor design IMHO.
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John & Cathy R.
06 Pace Arrow 38L Workhorse W24
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09-30-2018, 09:23 AM
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#1307
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: California
Posts: 838
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I'm in the process of moving into a new house that has really nice RV storage. Once I get settled, which may be a while, I'll have a place where I can actually work on the rig. It's in a cramped storage place now. I'll disassemble that bed frame to make repairs and devise some method to better access the motor so I can manually close it from the living room side with the bed down. I'll do a write up on the process with photos if I am successful.
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Old Bakersfield Man
2017 Bounder 35K 2017 and 2006 Rubicon Wrangler Unlimited NSA Ready Brute Elite tow bar
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10-03-2018, 09:34 AM
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#1308
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: FT on the Road
Posts: 3,839
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Not sure if I previously posted about my curbside Carefree Freestyle awning problems.
I am happy to say it is finally fixed and I figured out the problem. Much thanks to Carefree for sending parts for free and considered warranty even though my unit is 3 years old.
Turns out the wiring is run in the inside rail. Well, the wisdom of Fleetwood they used some really shoddy 2 sided tape to secure it in the rail. They didn't use the Carefree adhesive for whatever reason will go to my grave with me.
The adhesive become undone and the wiring wound up in the fabric and jammed which created all sorts of issues.
Moral of the story for anyone with these new armless awnings, check the adhesive as it will come loose. See pics (the pics are after I was able to unravel the wiring from the fabric.
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I don't subscribe to threads I reply to so will not see your reply to my comment. Drop me a direct message if you want a reply from me.
Cheers!
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10-04-2018, 12:04 AM
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#1309
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: California
Posts: 838
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Quote:
Originally Posted by computerguy
Not sure if I previously posted about my curbside Carefree Freestyle awning problems.
I am happy to say it is finally fixed and I figured out the problem. Much thanks to Carefree for sending parts for free and considered warranty even though my unit is 3 years old.
Turns out the wiring is run in the inside rail. Well, the wisdom of Fleetwood they used some really shoddy 2 sided tape to secure it in the rail. They didn't use the Carefree adhesive for whatever reason will go to my grave with me.
The adhesive become undone and the wiring wound up in the fabric and jammed which created all sorts of issues.
Moral of the story for anyone with these new armless awnings, check the adhesive as it will come loose. See pics (the pics are after I was able to unravel the wiring from the fabric.
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So in your pics do you have a panel off? I guess I'll look at mine. I can't imagine FW doing something like that. Your's must be a fluke!
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Old Bakersfield Man
2017 Bounder 35K 2017 and 2006 Rubicon Wrangler Unlimited NSA Ready Brute Elite tow bar
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10-04-2018, 06:17 AM
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#1310
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: FT on the Road
Posts: 3,839
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No, there is no "panel" per se. The lead rail of the awning retracts and closes right into the unit. It is super tight up there and if the wire harness comes loose it can get "sucked up" in the roller tube with the fabric. At least that is what happened to me. There is a hole in the knuckle (hinge) and I wonder if the harness should have been routed through the hole? I am in touch with Carefree and they are checking as they did not know and had to check with a supervisor/engineering.
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I don't subscribe to threads I reply to so will not see your reply to my comment. Drop me a direct message if you want a reply from me.
Cheers!
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10-10-2018, 06:12 PM
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#1311
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: FT on the Road
Posts: 3,839
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When it rains it pours right?
Ugh, when it rains it pours. As if all my previous summer issues weren't quite enough for a lifetime here's another.
I can thank Hurricane Michael for this one - well, at least for bringing it to my attention.
I was doing some cleaning because it was raining out. These were the outer bands of Hurricane Michael some 300 miles away. They were heavy but not a big deal for a Florida resident. I am cleaning under the dinette and I notice it is wet. I look at the wall and water running down it. It is coming out of the window frame. Ugh, really? Not only it is running down the wall I notice the wall is swollen and soft to the touch. This can't be good!
A call to FW CS to ask questions. They tell me the top of the window should be caulked, I tell them I looked and there is NO caulking on ANY of my windows. Yeah, this is not good!
This was the first time of all my calls to FW CS (technical CS) they were useless. Normally I have high regards for them but not this time.
I take the trim off, I remove the day/night shade and frame. Turns out my window was never installed correctly. The trim, which holds the window in was not tightened (or, the window was not pressed into the frame correctly therefore not sealing the top against the outside fiberglass). I tightened up the trim for the window and it now seems to be not leaking. Time will tell. Hoping I can replace the luaun myself then just need to source the covering or maybe just paint the whole slideout interior instead?
Looks like it has been leaking since day one. I took the rotted wood and covering off. At first glance I thought it was mold. As it is drying it doesn't look like mold.
Good old Fleetwood quality control...
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Cheers!
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10-10-2018, 06:15 PM
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#1312
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Travis AFB, CA
Posts: 367
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Quote:
Originally Posted by computerguy
Ugh, when it rains it pours. As if all my previous summer issues weren't quite enough for a lifetime here's another.
I can thank Hurricane Michael for this one - well, at least for bringing it to my attention.
I was doing some cleaning because it was raining out. These were the outer bands of Hurricane Michael some 300 miles away. They were heavy but not a big deal for a Florida resident. I am cleaning under the dinette and I notice it is wet. I look at the wall and water running down it. It is coming out of the window frame. Ugh, really? Not only it is running down the wall I notice the wall is swollen and soft to the touch. This can't be good!
A call to FW CS to ask questions. They tell me the top of the window should be caulked, I tell them I looked and there is NO caulking on ANY of my windows. Yeah, this is not good!
This was the first time of all my calls to FW CS (technical CS) they were useless. Normally I have high regards for them but not this time.
I take the trim off, I remove the day/night shade and frame. Turns out my window was never installed correctly. The trim, which holds the window in was not tightened (or, the window was not pressed into the frame correctly therefore not sealing the top against the outside fiberglass). I tightened up the trim for the window and it now seems to be not leaking. Time will tell. Hoping I can replace the luaun myself then just need to source the covering or maybe just paint the whole slideout interior instead?
Looks like it has been leaking since day one. I took the rotted wood and covering off. At first glance I thought it was mold. As it is drying it doesn't look like mold.
Good old Fleetwood quality control...
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I am sorry this looks very familiar to me! I understand your frustration!
__________________
2016 Fleetwood Bounder 35K, 30th Anniversary Edition w/ 2016 Ford Chassis
2018 JL Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited, Firecracker Red
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10-10-2018, 06:17 PM
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#1313
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Travis AFB, CA
Posts: 367
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AFfiredawg
I am sorry this looks very familiar to me! I understand your frustration!
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Fortunately it sounds like yours might be a little easier to repair...slightly different problem...mine was the window openings cut too large/jagged...
__________________
2016 Fleetwood Bounder 35K, 30th Anniversary Edition w/ 2016 Ford Chassis
2018 JL Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited, Firecracker Red
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10-10-2018, 07:06 PM
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#1314
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: In a lawnchair
Posts: 11,993
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Quote:
Originally Posted by computerguy
Ugh, when it rains it pours. As if all my previous summer issues weren't quite enough for a lifetime here's another...
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Aw, man. Sorry to see that. Glad you found it before it got worse. Did you check all the other windows?
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10-10-2018, 07:37 PM
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#1315
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: FT on the Road
Posts: 3,839
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SarahW
Aw, man. Sorry to see that. Glad you found it before it got worse. Did you check all the other windows?
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Yes. Did a visual check and a check of the wood being solid. All seems good but I will be taking off the shade frames so I can check the tightness of the window trim. The one where the leak was pretty loose, almost could tighten it with my fingers.
__________________
I don't subscribe to threads I reply to so will not see your reply to my comment. Drop me a direct message if you want a reply from me.
Cheers!
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10-10-2018, 08:23 PM
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#1316
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: In a lawnchair
Posts: 11,993
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Quote:
Originally Posted by computerguy
Yes. Did a visual check and a check of the wood being solid. All seems good but I will be taking off the shade frames so I can check the tightness of the window trim. The one where the leak was pretty loose, almost could tighten it with my fingers.
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So you have the frameless windows, correct? That just sucks. Do you suppose the wall might be OK once it dries out? I'll be interested to see what you do with the wall covering.
RV Owner's Motto: "It's always something".
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