Community Forums

vegas39 · 07-16-2012, 06:24 PM

Hi all. We have an 89 Southwind that we just aquired and today it failed its emissions test, they say running too rich for idle test.
I have done a lot of reading and several people have been happy upgrading their carburetor to a new Edelbrock model.
Has anyone changed over from the factory carb and if so, what model and brand did you use? Thanks.

Cougarkid · 07-16-2012, 08:00 PM

Why change it? Just because it is set too rich?
Adjust it and it will be just fine!
Why spend money you don't need to.

Our 89 454 runs great on the factory 4bbl. Had issues when we got it. Carb cleaner and adjusted it and it has been fine since.

Emission test are about properly tuned engines.

stepside454 · 07-16-2012, 08:16 PM

I wouldn't do it if it were mine. I've had several Edelbrock carbs. They arent any better than a properly tuned & clean Qjet

85antique · 07-17-2012, 10:40 AM

Dont do it eldebrocks are junk clean and adj the qjet and you will be fine

Nick-B · 07-17-2012, 01:46 PM

Hi vegas39 and

Find a carb shop that likes to rebuild the Q-Jet.
You are probably experiencing internal fuel and/or vacuum leaks which that carb is famous for and which will cause a rich-at-idle condition. Make sure they check the top casting for flatness. If warped, it causes the vacuum leak and rich idle. Then when you replace it, DO NOT overtighten the 2 long thru-bolts that go into the manifold. That is what warps the top casting in the first place. Once corrected, that is the best carb for your engine.

vegas39 · 07-17-2012, 04:59 PM

Thanks for the replies. The previous owner had a friend rebuild the carb a couple years back and it was only used on a short trip after that and then parked. I just replaced plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, hoses, belts and a new power steering pump.
The smog shop I took it to said it passed everything except the idle test, in which it was running too rich. He gave me a phone number of their other location that also does testing and said they would adjust the mixture to try and pass it. I really hate when people start messing with screws, because it never runs the same way again. They want 160 bucks to adjust and retest and if it fails, I pay nothing.

I really wasnt aware that the QJ was so well liked, I honestly thought I would have a ton of replys saying to change it out but I guess I'll keep it.

stepside454 · 07-17-2012, 05:09 PM

Q jets are either loved or hated. Usually hated by people who don't know carbs as well as they think, try to mess with it, screw it all up& get mad. Than they go buy a brand new carb & are amazed at how it runs. The Qjet can run that good or better if not fondled by the wrong hands.
I'll admit, I'm not that good with tuning a Qjet , but those who are can make em work great.

stink · 07-17-2012, 08:48 PM

I don't know what state your in but here in cal you cannot change the carb to a edlebrock. with your quadraflood you may still have the stock float that is plastic. The plastic floats tend to soak up fuel after 10 or so years and a rich running condition will result (especially at idle) Also the main jet wells will start to leak fuel and this fuel will be drawn into the manifold causing a rich condition. I have rebuilt hundreds of qjets and a good (old) rebuilder can get you fixed and improve performance and milage at the same time!!!!

Daytripper63 · 07-17-2012, 09:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vegas39

Thanks for the replies. The previous owner had a friend rebuild the carb a couple years back and it was only used on a short trip after that and then parked. I just replaced plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, hoses, belts and a new power steering pump.
The smog shop I took it to said it passed everything except the idle test, in which it was running too rich. He gave me a phone number of their other location that also does testing and said they would adjust the mixture to try and pass it. I really hate when people start messing with screws, because it never runs the same way again. They want 160 bucks to adjust and retest and if it fails, I pay nothing.

I really wasnt aware that the QJ was so well liked, I honestly thought I would have a ton of replys saying to change it out but I guess I'll keep it.

VERY FEW people seem to rebuild a Qjet correctly and what gets me is it is not that tough, it's not the rebuilding part they screw up it is that they do not epoxy seal the screws on the bottom side of the carb and they will leak fuel into the manifold usually causing it to run rich.
With that said, since motorhomes usually dont get used enough and have the potential for bad gas / old gas that can gum things up in the carb and if that was a problem with the previous owner he may have rebuilt the carb but then started the motor and fed the same old bad gas (possibly varnished gas) into the rebuilt carb and now you are back at square one. If the gas has a varnish smell from sitting to long you usually have to drop the fuel tank and clean it with acetone and I would throw in the tank about 50 3/8 flat washers ( Be sure to count exactly how many so you get them all back out) With the acetone and washers in the tank shake the tank around very well and the washers will scrap the acetone off the gas tank.
Don't ask me how I know this....

I tried many other easier ways but ultimatly had to do it this way cause the varnish kept screwing up my carb.

Good luck I hope it is only the carb and not a gas issue

vegas39 · 07-18-2012, 12:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stink

I don't know what state your in but here in cal you cannot change the carb to a edlebrock. with your quadraflood you may still have the stock float that is plastic. The plastic floats tend to soak up fuel after 10 or so years and a rich running condition will result (especially at idle) Also the main jet wells will start to leak fuel and this fuel will be drawn into the manifold causing a rich condition. I have rebuilt hundreds of qjets and a good (old) rebuilder can get you fixed and improve performance and milage at the same time!!!!

Thanks, wasnt aware of that issue. If I hould ever go to switch brands, I'll find out what will legaly work.

vegas39 · 07-18-2012, 06:45 PM

Took it to a smog place today and they adjusted things and it passed, seems to run good also so I'll leave it alone for now.

I need to address the issue of why my generator wont stay running when I release the start button but I think we have it narrowed down to the voltage regulator, gonna order one from flight systems tomorrow.

I also need to order a new a/c unit for the front and then it looks like we can hit the road!

Cougarkid · 07-19-2012, 10:49 AM

Good to hear all the carb needed was an adjustment.

Is the front ac dead? Does the fan run but not the compressor? Unless the freon is gone or the compressor shot craps, it should be an easy fix, too.

Take a look at the starter capacitor. It will be clamped in place. Might be in a "box" in the ac, under the top shroud. There may be 2 or 3 of them. It will be silver in color and round or oval. Flat bottom and top. Wires (several) plugged into it.

If the top is bulging out, it is propably bad.

Take a picture or write down what wires go where. Take it off and take it with you to get a new one. A/C supply store, hardware store (some), electic supply company should have one to replace it. They will match up the size.

Worth checking into, considering the price of a new a/c.

vegas39 · 07-19-2012, 03:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cougarkid

Good to hear all the carb needed was an adjustment.

Is the front ac dead? Does the fan run but not the compressor? Unless the freon is gone or the compressor shot craps, it should be an easy fix, too.

Take a look at the starter capacitor. It will be clamped in place. Might be in a "box" in the ac, under the top shroud. There may be 2 or 3 of them. It will be silver in color and round or oval. Flat bottom and top. Wires (several) plugged into it.

If the top is bulging out, it is propably bad.

Take a picture or write down what wires go where. Take it off and take it with you to get a new one. A/C supply store, hardware store (some), electic supply company should have one to replace it. They will match up the size.

Worth checking into, considering the price of a new a/c.

The fan runs but the compressor kicks out after 2 or 3 minutes of run time and then comes back in after it resets. I checked to make sure the thermostat wasnt making it cycle. The unit does blow cold when it works. I'll check the capacitor(s) thanks,

vegas39 · 07-19-2012, 10:09 PM

Well, I took all three capacitors out of my good unit and switched them to the bad unit and the compressor still goes out on overload, must be an internal problem. I really hate to spend the money on a new unit and have tried like crazy to find a good used one around here but no luck.

Guess I'll be ordering one, the last one I bought off ebay back in 04 was a Carrier 15,000 for 499 with free shipping and electric heat, looks like them days are over. I was kinda sad to see Carrier pull out of the rv game, that was a darn nice unit.