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Old 07-27-2011, 02:17 PM   #1
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AC Help

My 1988 Southwind's AC starting just blowing hot air this spring. I thought the AC needed charging, took it to a reputable AC shopr. They checked for leaks, held vacuum for 35 minuites. They had to convert to the new freon. AC runs, and the lines get cold, but still now cold air from the vents. The shop isn't familiar with RVs and the tech said that it seemed a vent somewhere wasn't opening. My question for anyone, is there a vent that is either vacuum controlled or solenoid controlled that might be the problem??? Thank you in advance for your help. N3OR
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Old 07-27-2011, 05:21 PM   #2
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Are you talking dash air or roof top air? Sound like dash air

Just a vacuum check for 35 minutes tells you that you don;t have any big leaks. They need to pressure test the unit with refrigerant and an electronic leak detector.

They did not have to convert to the new Freon. What did they put in it?

They should be able to trouble shoot the damper door and fix that really easy.

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Old 07-28-2011, 05:17 PM   #3
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.Your dash air uses vacumn servo motors to operate everything. The vacumn lines are plastic. their service life is about ten years. I have changed dozens of these. Look at the heater box under the hood. You will see where the heater hoses go in. You will see a metal shutoff servo in the heater hose. It will have a vacumn line running to it. Check this hose and i believe you will find it full of holes. They changed the R12 to R134a because R12 freon is no longer made.
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Old 07-28-2011, 06:03 PM   #4
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The point is there is no reason to change an old system like that to R-134a. It is much easier to use one of the drop in blends like "Hot Shot"....ICOR International, Inc.

It does not require any changes in oil, elastomers or hoses like R-134a will on some older systems. But the shops like to push the r-134a conversion because it makes more money for them.

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Old 07-28-2011, 06:15 PM   #5
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TXiceman is correct about the change to 134a. 134 also does not condense as well as R-12. R-12 is still available but expensive.
If the lines to the evaporator are cold and pressures are correct I'd suspect a heat valve (hot water valve) sticking. If it were a diverter door then cold air should blow out somewhere.......like the defroster or floor.
You should also check temps of both intake and return heater lines at the heater core.
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Old 07-28-2011, 07:07 PM   #6
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GA traveler, I found the 2 heater hoses and the shutoff valve, but no vacuum line hooked to it. Will investigate more this weekend. Thanks for the info
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Old 07-28-2011, 07:41 PM   #7
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GA traveler, I found the 2 heater hoses and the shutoff valve, but no vacuum line hooked to it. Will investigate more this weekend. Thanks for the info
Usually the A/C folks like to shutoff the hot water to the heater. The A/C coil is in front of the heater coil. If you cool the air and then it goes through a heater core, It will heat it again. Heat will always overcome cold.
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Old 07-28-2011, 07:44 PM   #8
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GA traveler, I found the 2 heater hoses and the shutoff valve, but no vacuum line hooked to it. Will investigate more this weekend. Thanks for the info
Not all shutoff valves are vacumn operated. Does the valve have a handle, similar to a hose shutoff? If it has a small tube coming out of it. (about 1/8 in dia.) Then the vacumn hose is missing.
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Old 08-04-2011, 04:56 PM   #9
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There is also a cable operated door that switches from hot to cold air that could be bent and not functioning. Had this on my 1992 ( located in engine bay on exchange box). Also, we were charging the A/C on a very hot day, and with the engine running and air not moving across the condensor had too much heat build up in the engine compartment to cool down and start cooling everything. After I let it sit for a day, got in and drove and had nice cold air.
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