Aux Start Solenoid Replacement

[Old Bounder]

Your board is the equivalent of the CB-200 original. Your BCC is made by Intellitec, (as were most of the very early ones) but the diagrams and schematics I gave you are still correct for that unit, and are the only thing available to us.

[YC1]

Remove F22 and be sure F17 is ok.

Use your test light to verify F17 has voltage on each side.

Now have someone push the aux start button, ignition in the run position of course, and check each side of the F22 posts. I would like to see the test light come on hopefully and not have F17 blow. If F17 holds then there is a diode that is shorted or wiring and we are nearly home. If F17 blows then it is the circuitry and you need a replacement board or yours repaired.

Look at page 16 and locate F22. What size fuse is in the F22 position at this time? I am not going into tons of details and reasoning because I don't want to muddy the water.

[Old Bounder]

Originally Posted by YC1

Remove F22 and be sure F17 is ok.

Use your test light to verify F17 has voltage on each side.

Now have someone push the aux start button, ignition in the run position of course, and check each side of the F22 posts. I would like to see the test light come on hopefully and not have F17 blow. If F17 holds then there is a diode that is shorted or wiring and we are nearly home. If F17 blows then it is the circuitry and you need a replacement board or yours repaired.

Look at page 16 and locate F22. What size fuse is in the F22 position at this time? I am not going into tons of details and reasoning because I don't want to muddy the water.

You ARE muddying the water. The OP's BCC does not have an F-22. That didn't get added until about five years after his unit was built.

Removing the connection to the aux batteries and lifting the yellow wire off the solenoid to test for ground on it (the wire) would be a better idea

[YC1]

Old Bounder, you obviously know the circuit better than I and the history. I was using the schematic for reference.

I will gladly bow out now.

[micoviso]

Originally Posted by Old Bounder

You ARE muddying the water. The OP's BCC does not have an F-22. That didn't get added until about five years after his unit was built.

Removing the connection to the aux batteries and lifting the yellow wire off the solenoid to test for ground on it (the wire) would be a better idea

I disconnected the negative terminal on both aux batteries, removed the yellow wire from the solenoid, and tested for continuity with ground with my multi-meter. It is has continuity with ground. I disconnected the negative on the chassis battery and did the same test just for giggles (certainly not based on trying to read the wiring diagram yet) and it was still grounded. Am I dashboard diving, replacing a board, or testing another circuit?

[Old Bounder]

Originally Posted by micoviso

I disconnected the negative terminal on both aux batteries, removed the yellow wire from the solenoid, and tested for continuity with ground with my multi-meter. It is has continuity with ground. I disconnected the negative on the chassis battery and did the same test just for giggles (certainly not based on trying to read the wiring diagram yet) and it was still grounded. Am I dashboard diving, replacing a board, or testing another circuit?

We don't know just yet about what is going to be the cause, or need repair.

Looking at figure-6 in the diagram package,

• The yellow wire comes from the board through Plug # 1, pin-5
• It then goes to Plug # 4, Pin-10 to exit the board to the dash switch.
• It returns from the switch, to the board through plug # 4, Pin-2.
• It then connects to fuse # 17 which goes to the aux battery positive through Plug # 8.

Remove the cable at plug # 4 from the board. If the yellow wire is still showing ground, then the problem is in the board.

If the yellow wire is NOT still grounded, (with Plug-4 removed) the short is in the wiring to or from the switch.

If the ground appears to be on the board, look closely at the area around plug # 1, Pins-5 & 6. The yellow wire is attached to pin-5 and the black wire is attached to pin-6, which is ground. Good place for a short unfortunately.

[micoviso]

Originally Posted by Old Bounder

We don't know just yet about what is going to be the cause, or need repair.

Looking at figure-6 in the diagram package,

• The yellow wire comes from the board through Plug # 1, pin-5
• It then goes to Plug # 4, Pin-10 to exit the board to the dash switch.
• It returns from the switch, to the board through plug # 4, Pin-2.
• It then connects to fuse # 17 which goes to the aux battery positive through Plug # 8.

Remove the cable at plug # 4 from the board. If the yellow wire is still showing ground, then the problem is in the board.

If the yellow wire is NOT still grounded, (with Plug-4 removed) the short is in the wiring to or from the switch.

If the ground appears to be on the board, look closely at the area around plug # 1, Pins-5 & 6. The yellow wire is attached to pin-5 and the black wire is attached to pin-6, which is ground. Good place for a short unfortunately.

I'm about to go try this. But just to confirm I'm reading this diagram properly (or not), you said it goes to aux battery "positive" through plug 8. When I follow the line out of plug 8 on the diagram, it goes to Coach Battery GND symbol, or aux battery "negative" in my mind. Am I reading this wrong (very likely)? I haven't tried this since high school electric class around 30 years ago.

[micoviso]

Originally Posted by Old Bounder

We don't know just yet about what is going to be the cause, or need repair.

Looking at figure-6 in the diagram package,

• The yellow wire comes from the board through Plug # 1, pin-5
• It then goes to Plug # 4, Pin-10 to exit the board to the dash switch.
• It returns from the switch, to the board through plug # 4, Pin-2.
• It then connects to fuse # 17 which goes to the aux battery positive through Plug # 8.

Remove the cable at plug # 4 from the board. If the yellow wire is still showing ground, then the problem is in the board.

If the yellow wire is NOT still grounded, (with Plug-4 removed) the short is in the wiring to or from the switch.

If the ground appears to be on the board, look closely at the area around plug # 1, Pins-5 & 6. The yellow wire is attached to pin-5 and the black wire is attached to pin-6, which is ground. Good place for a short unfortunately.

I unplugged plug 4 (called J4 on the board). Yellow is still grounded. I also checked for ground on pin 2 and pin 10, no ground. I then put my probes in pin 2 and pin 10 on the plug and had my son push the aux stary button, it gained continuity when he pressed the button. This tells me the switch is working and not grounded out between the plug and the switch, correct?

I then disconnected all the batteries, unscrewed the board, and looked at the front and back of the board around P1. Everything looks in great shape and there is nothing crossing pins 5 and 6 on the back. I cleaned the area with a pencil eraser just in case. Checked yellow wire from plug to solenoid connector, no grounds. Put it all back together, yellow wire grounded.

[micoviso]

I left the yellow wire off and taped it up in the hope that the solenoid would kick in and charge the aux batteries while the engine is running, but voltage measurements at the aux batteries while off and running are the same, so I guess not. Is it possible I fried another solenoid because of the yellow wire problem, or will this not work until the yellow wire issue is replaced? Sounding like I need a new board, correct?

[Old Bounder]

Originally Posted by micoviso

I left the yellow wire off and taped it up in the hope that the solenoid would kick in and charge the aux batteries while the engine is running, but voltage measurements at the aux batteries while off and running are the same, so I guess not. Is it possible I fried another solenoid because of the yellow wire problem, or will this not work until the yellow wire issue is replaced? Sounding like I need a new board, correct?

The circuit on the board that is shorted is, unfortunately, the circuit necessary to get the charging from the engine alternator to your aux batteries. The remainder of the board is still okay.

Your options are:

• Replace the board, cost about $160 (this option would restore charging and the aux/start function)
• Add an Intellitec IRD, cost about $42. (this option would restore charging from the alternator,)
• Add an Intellitec BIRD, cost about $67. (this option would fix the charge from the alternator, AND add charging of the chassis battery from the converter when on shore power.)

The aux/start switch can be wired direct to the yellow wire to restore it's function.

Let me know if you need detailed instructions to wire in either the IRD or the BIRD.

[micoviso]

Originally Posted by Old Bounder

The circuit on the board that is shorted is, unfortunately, the circuit necessary to get the charging from the engine alternator to your aux batteries. The remainder of the board is still okay.

Your options are:

• Replace the board, cost about $160 (this option would restore charging and the aux/start function)
• Add an Intellitec IRD, cost about $42. (this option would restore charging from the alternator,)
• Add an Intellitec BIRD, cost about $67. (this option would fix the charge from the alternator, AND add charging of the chassis battery from the converter when on shore power.)

The aux/start switch can be wired direct to the yellow wire to restore it's function.

Let me know if you need detailed instructions to wire in either the IRD or the BIRD.

I'm thinking BIRD and wiring the Aux start switch direct unless you think this issue is just phase one of a failing board that needs replaced. Where do I get the BIRD, and yes, please enlighten me to the installation instructions. Also, let's see if I learned anything... snip wire going into P4 pin 10 and hook directly to solenoid in place of yellow wire?

[Old Bounder]

Originally Posted by micoviso

I'm thinking BIRD and wiring the Aux start switch direct unless you think this issue is just phase one of a failing board that needs replaced. Where do I get the BIRD, and yes, please enlighten me to the installation instructions. Also, let's see if I learned anything... snip wire going into P4 pin 10 and hook directly to solenoid in place of yellow wire?

Yes, clip wire into P4 Pin-10 and connect to solenoid with the yellow wire.

I don't think you will have more trouble with the circuit board, because that voltage comparator (which is the equivalent of the IRD) is the only real logic on the board. The rest of the board is just fuses and relays.

You can get the BIRD here. Or here. You may be able to find it cheaper somewhere on the net.

If you decide to go that way, I'll print the connection points between the board and the solenoid.

When my board failed. I installed the BIRD and it works perfectly.

[CJ7365]

Not to interrupt, but I really enjoyed reading the trouble shooting procedures, and the knowledge people have here on this forum (Old Bounder)

Please micoviso come back and let us know the out come

[micoviso]

Originally Posted by Old Bounder

Yes, clip wire into P4 Pin-10 and connect to solenoid with the yellow wire.

I don't think you will have more trouble with the circuit board, because that voltage comparator (which is the equivalent of the IRD) is the only real logic on the board. The rest of the board is just fuses and relays.

You can get the BIRD here. Or here. You may be able to find it cheaper somewhere on the net.

If you decide to go that way, I'll print the connection points between the board and the solenoid.

When my board failed. I installed the BIRD and it works perfectly.

I've got one on the way. It will be here in 3 days. Thanks so much for your help!