Battery Disconnect Switch

[Ripsaw]

I have a 2006 Fleetwood Revolution LE MH and have been having issues with my batteries discharging while in storage. When putting my MH into storage I would always switch both the engine and house battery switches to the off position. But even after doing that I would still have power to the remote controller for the inverter. I called Magum, the manufactuer of the inverter, and was told by their tech that even after both disconnect switches were thrown I was still providing power to both the inverter and the remote controller for the inverter.

The tech told me that I wold have to put a third disconnect switch in that actually disconnects the positve battery treminal from the battery to the inverter.

The question I have is, what type of battery disconnect switch should I get? I have 4, 12 volt, 100 amp house batteries. All the switches I see are rated to a max of 250 amps.

Any sugestions???

Robert

[Gary RVRoamer]

The inverter does not normally have a disconnect switch. Just turn the Magnum inverter off and it should not draw any noticeable amount of power. Yes, the display will still be lit/active.

Do you understand that a battery will self discharge even if nothing is connected to it? It takes awhile, at leasta few months, but it will happen no matter what you do.

If you must disconnect, you need a switch capable of handling the inverters full power draw when inverting or full charge when charging. Both of those are probably over 125 amps and depends on the model of the inverter. One of those 250A switches should be plenty, though.

[Ripsaw]

Thanks, for your reply.

The tech at Magnum was telling me that most of the electronics are still active within the inverter, JFet, monitoring electronics, etc. He told me it is enough draw that within 3 wks the batteries would be dead, as with the case I am seeing.

What he told me to do was to take the positive feed to the inverter and put an inline switch.

Robert

[Rainbirds]

Safest is to disconnect the negative. With batteries, ALWAYS the negative is the first to disconnect and the last to reconnect.

[bbeane]

Robert as O/P's have said, putting disconnect Sw's in battery cables is ok but you need to make sure the switch is rated at the max load the system can draw. But thats just one more place to have a problem. Newer coaches with all the goodies draw alot even when everything is off(all the nifty displays and such). The best thing is to disconnect the ground cable from the battery(s) no connection no draw. Also if you store lead acid battery's for a long period with out a periodic charge you will end up with short battery life and dead batterys. In short there is no easy button for batterys as far as storage goes, ya got to keep em charged.

[TechWriter]

Originally Posted by Ripsaw

The tech told me that I wold have to put a third disconnect switch in that actually disconnects the positve battery treminal from the battery to the inverter.

300A disconnect switch:
BLUE SEA SYSTEMS Switch at West Marine

Or, replace the in-line fuse between the battery bank and your inverter with a DC circuit breaker. Then you'll have a fuse and battery disconnect in one:
C-type Flat Rocker Single, Double and Triple Pole Circuit Breakers

[RJay]

Originally Posted by Ripsaw

I have a 2006 Fleetwood Revolution LE MH and have been having issues with my batteries discharging while in storage. When putting my MH into storage I would always switch both the engine and house battery switches to the off position. But even after doing that I would still have power to the remote controller for the inverter. I called Magum, the manufactuer of the inverter, and was told by their tech that even after both disconnect switches were thrown I was still providing power to both the inverter and the remote controller for the inverter.

The tech told me that I wold have to put a third disconnect switch in that actually disconnects the positve battery treminal from the battery to the inverter.

The question I have is, what type of battery disconnect switch should I get? I have 4, 12 volt, 100 amp house batteries. All the switches I see are rated to a max of 250 amps.

Any sugestions???

Robert

Hi Bob,
The tech is only half right. As long as AC is going to the inverter the electronics are active but you do not need a separate disconnect, simply trip the AC breaker that feeds the inverter.

[wa8yxm]

Is there a switch ON THE INVERTER ITSELF?

Inverters can draw so much current that they normally do not put a DC switch in the battery lead beacuse the insertion loss is excessive.. That said, I do have them in mine at the moment (I may change this soon and for just that reason)

But turning off the inverter, AT THE INVERTER (not the remote) may drop an internal solenoid off line.. use test gear to be sure. (Lift a wire and use an ammeter, or better yet a test light, then the meter if no light, with the inverter itself switched off, Should see no light, if light, drawing power, don't use meter)

[Ripsaw]

Thanks guys for all your suggestions.

One thing to note about removing or putting a disconnect switch on the negative post is that with inverters, or at least the ones I have in my boat and RV, you should always connect the positive post last so you don't create a false return(ground) path through the postitive wire. You could cause damage to other electronic on your coach. Both of my inverter manuals tell you to always connect the ground first and the positive last. BIG Cautions notes in the manuals. I know this is wrong for connecting car batteries. But for inverters they want you to do it neg first and pos last.

Also, I can trip the AC breaker for the inverter and the inverters's remote control's LCD will still be on. The model I have,version 1, does not have a power save mode, so the only way to kill the display is either disconnect it at the inverter or put a disconnect switch on the pos terminal of the inverter.

But, if by tripping the AC breaker I still have a display I have to believe there are active electronics in the inverter, as the manufacturing Tech stated.


Any ways, with all that said I think I found a 1KA switch that will work fine.

Thanks again for all your help,

Robert

[Tha_Rooster]

Just a thought how old are your batteries, maybe one with a bad cell that's when they will die when not plugged in. I have no problems like that and mine sits a lot since we still work.

[Ripsaw]

[QUOTE=Tha_Rooster;914876]Just a thought how old are your batteries, maybe one with a bad cell that's when they will die when not plugged in. I have no problems like that and mine sits a lot since we still work.[/QUOTE

I just put in new batteries this week and just want to keep them as long as I can this time. This my third set since 2006. Maybe this is not bad, its just the last set was lifeline and they were only two years old.

Tried to get Lifeline to make good on their waranty but they just told me to bad, my fault their dead.

[phranc]

west marine has a couple of heavy duty switches .. BTW , I use one on the chassis batteries on the pos terminal..
BLUE SEA SYSTEMS Switch at West Marine

[Tha_Rooster]

Wow less than 2 years a set OUCH I would say that's not good.