Bounder: 2017 Bounder Experience

[AFfiredawg]

Originally Posted by Bob1340

The Bounder is still at the shop but ready to go. We'll drive up and get it Monday. My prayer and hope is that this hiccup is over and we'll be sailing in smooth seas.



But---Should problems persist we'd just as soon take it someplace that is good to work on and sort out the gremlins. We bought this rig used. It had 7,200 miles on it. I am a fair mechanic and I can tell there has been some re-wiring done on this rig before I bought it.

There is a REV/Fleetwood Tech Center 750 miles up the road. We are not opposed to taking it to Coburg Oregon for them to sort of this wiring mess. We did buy it used so no factory warranty but we do have a service plan on it. Not sure if REV would honor this or not? We know many have taken their rigs to the center in Decatur and were happy with the work. Has anyone had any experience with the Coburg OR center?

The guys at rev in coburg are amazing! They do great work. I was there under warranty with my 2016 bounder, but there were many people there that were getting extended warranty/service plan work done and I overheard several conversations where the advisors were pushing the warranty company for approvals. I believe the drive is well worth it. I drove from the Sacramento area for it!


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[Bob1340]

Originally Posted by AFfiredawg

The guys at rev in coburg are amazing! They do great work. I was there under warranty with my 2016 bounder, but there were many people there that were getting extended warranty/service plan work done and I overheard several conversations where the advisors were pushing the warranty company for approvals. I believe the drive is well worth it. I drove from the Sacramento area for it!


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Thanks a bunch. I'm in Bakersfield but I have a son in Redding which is just pass the 1/2 way point. If problems continue I'll be making an appointment.


Any idea how long it takes to get in? I know I'll need an appointment.

[AFfiredawg]

Originally Posted by Bob1340

Thanks a bunch. I'm in Bakersfield but I have a son in Redding which is just pass the 1/2 way point. If problems continue I'll be making an appointment.


Any idea how long it takes to get in? I know I'll need an appointment.

When I went last year they were scheduling several months out...


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[rmbmrm]

Just back from a bouncy trip from MA to SC. Lost part of the hubcap on the trip- the lug nut 'cover' broke off with the rough roads.

And had a 'rockin' passenger captains chair. Found a main bolt had loosened, and had to tighten that up.

Overall, the MH functioned well. Found that we could not use the levelers at a campground with a steep grade in VA - the levelers have sensors that won't allow them to function if the range is outside of it's comfort zone. We thought they were broken, but it was the safety device that would not allow them to deploy.

Still happy with the Bounder - minor annoyances, but fixable...

[Bob1340]

Originally Posted by rmbmrm

Just back from a bouncy trip from MA to SC.

They are bouncy. I did the CHF front and rear which made a huge difference. I installed a Safety Steer rear Track Bar on which really helps with trucks. I have Sumo Springs for front and rear to get in and a Safety Steer stabilizer that needs to go on as well. I may go with some bigger sway bars. The 35K seems to really pitch in the front. It is light up front and of course top heavy.

[rmbmrm]

It wasn't the MH as much as the bad roads!

[z3406]

Bob
The F53 chassis is solid axle and leaf springs, there is a limit to how much you can improve it. The Bounder 35K has the fresh water tank just behind the front axle I tried using the tank level to ballast the coach but I couldn't feel any real difference, ymmv. I found that the CHF and an aligned coach was totally drivable. A Roadmaster RSSA steering stabilizer reduced fatigue after a long days drive.

[Bob1340]

Originally Posted by z3406

Bob
The F53 chassis is solid axle and leaf springs, there is a limit to how much you can improve it. The Bounder 35K has the fresh water tank just behind the front axle I tried using the tank level to ballast the coach but I couldn't feel any real difference, ymmv. I found that the CHF and an aligned coach was totally drivable. A Roadmaster RSSA steering stabilizer reduced fatigue after a long days drive.

I did the CHF when I first got it. For such a simple job I was amazed at the difference it made in ride quality. I have a Safety Steer stabilizer sitting in the garage but just haven't had the time to install it. I am putting Sumo Springs on front too which I suspect will slow down some of the slow speed wallowing in the front suspension. Even though the 35K is light in the front it feels like it could of used a heavier spring to overcome the top heaviness.

But it is just fine as is with the CHF IMHO. I did install a rear track bar. A couple days ago when I brought it home from the dealers 110 miles away towing my JKU behind I could hardly even notice the trucks passing.

[Bob1340]

I posted this elsewhere but hopefully someone here can give some great insight.



I have a 2017 Bounder 35K. A couple months ago the slides quit due to a faulty safety relay. A tech came and over rode the bedroom slide and closed it for us. We took the coach in and had the relay replaced.



Last week we were looking under the bed and I can see 2 bolts in the top end of the bed stand/base and two more at the foot of it. Both are at the center of the base panel. These are about 7/16" bolts just looking at them. The two bolts at the top are just about pulled through the plywood panel and the two at the foot are pulled as well but not as bad.



On further inspection I can see where the bed stand/base at the rear of the coach (left side of the bed) has raised from the floor about 3/4"-1".



Anyone else have this issue?

[computerguy]

Originally Posted by Bob1340

I posted this elsewhere but hopefully someone here can give some great insight.



I have a 2017 Bounder 35K. A couple months ago the slides quit due to a faulty safety relay. A tech came and over rode the bedroom slide and closed it for us. We took the coach in and had the relay replaced.



Last week we were looking under the bed and I can see 2 bolts in the top end of the bed stand/base and two more at the foot of it. Both are at the center of the base panel. These are about 7/16" bolts just looking at them. The two bolts at the top are just about pulled through the plywood panel and the two at the foot are pulled as well but not as bad.



On further inspection I can see where the bed stand/base at the rear of the coach (left side of the bed) has raised from the floor about 3/4"-1".



Anyone else have this issue?

Pictures would be great to see. No, I have not had a problem with mine.

[Bob1340]

Originally Posted by computerguy

Pictures would be great to see. No, I have not had a problem with mine.

I'll see what I can do. It looks like (from what I can see) the gear track is in the center and it has guides on the sides. It appears to be all supported by the particle board bed stand.



What is funny is-----if you wanted to manually close the slide there is no way to do so. There is an access door at the bottom of the stand at the foot of the bed where you can see the motor. I didn't try and get my arm in there but supposedly you unlock the brake and turn the motor with a 3/4" wrench.

It's a designer/engineer problem as this is impossible to do as the bed stand comes almost to the bedroom cabinets. Perhaps laying on the rear bathroom floor?

[Bob1340]

Let's see if I can do a picture post. This is the bolts at the foot of the bed in the center of the stand. The bottom one is drawn into the plywood and at a different angle. The bolts at the other end of the platform are much worse but I couldn't get a good photo.

[Bob1340]

Here you can see that the upper portion of the bed stand is coming loose. I can't move it one way or the other by hand.


The first picture is of the foot of the bed. It is a two tier base. Not much room there.



In the second picture you can see the separation of the two base pieces which sorta scares me. It's about an inch. You can see the slide motor in pic two and the access panel to the motor on the foot of the lower portion of the stand on the left side of the picture. The left side of the bed closest to the rear bathroom.





The third pic is the right side of the stand towards the front of the coach. It has a gap, but not like the other side.


LOL Can you get into that access panel with a ratchet wrench and close that slide fully?

[Bob1340]

And here is a pic of the access door.



Not sure how a human can get at that to manually close the slide.